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For Sale / Re: '91 M42 head, Ebay chip, sprockets, water pump, exh manifold
« on: October 23, 2015, 12:55:24 AM »
DME still available?
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For Sale / Re: PART OUT 1995 318IS M42 w/LSD and tan interior northern michigan
« on: October 23, 2015, 12:51:42 AM »
Interested in the HVAC panel, how's the condition?
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Site and club discussion / Re: Not getting e-mail notifications on PMs and forum replies
« on: February 02, 2015, 02:33:48 PM »
Looks like it's working now! Thanks for the help!
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Site and club discussion / Not getting e-mail notifications on PMs and forum replies
« on: January 30, 2015, 08:38:06 PM »
I went and changed my account settings, but I'm still not getting any emails about those. I do get password reset emails though.
Any suggestions on settings I should check, in case I missed anything?
Any suggestions on settings I should check, in case I missed anything?
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Interior / Re: E30 9k oem tach!
« on: January 23, 2015, 06:31:33 AM »The gauges are lighted from the front, actually. There are openings at the bottom below the gauges, but they are almost impossible to see with the dash sticking out (as it should be).
Where do you guys go to get custom face plates made?
I actually did some internet research on this, after getting the idea of implanting a VDO oil temperature gauge into the E30 cluster. This thread shows a detailed process for making a set of faces. They're for back-lit gauges, so there's probably a few steps that could be skipped for front-lit gauges: http://mazda626.net/topic/39309-making-custom-gauge-faces/
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Interior / FIXED: Water leaking into interior
« on: January 23, 2015, 06:28:06 AM »
I did this around Christmas time...then suddenly remembered this info could be very useful. Our cars are getting long in the tooth, and chasing down water leaks can be an ordeal. Most threads I found say something "check the sunroof drains" which doesn't help when you have a slicktop. Eventually it was my roommate, who has extensive experience with VWs having VW problems, who ultimately pointed out how water was getting into my car.
So here goes:
The problem: Recent rains in California turned my footwells into reservoirs deep enough to fix the drought. I cleared the elephant trunk, which had 20 years of gunk in it.
This is probably a couple years of sitting under a tree in a drier part of California.
Took out my seats, used shop rags to soak up the moisture under the carpet (I couldn't figure out how to pull the doorsills off) and used a fan to dry out the carpet overnight, which was incredibly effective. I also bought two canisters of DampRid and left them in the footwells to catch any moisture that might come up. Did a leak test by pouring water into the vents at the windshield base and all looked good, with water draining out under the fenders where they should, and no obvious leaks into the cabin.
I parked the car in the rain again, and while the passenger side was dry, the driver side was wet again.
My roommate suggested a seal or barrier might be the culprit, since he had the same problem with his VWs. I took off my door card and found the vapor barrier had shrunken, like that dude in the waiting room in Beetlejuice, leaving a gap in just the right spot to let water in.
You can see where the water was coming in.
Door card soaked (it was fine after it dried out)
Where the barrier pulled away from the bottom of the door:
The leak is more obvious from this angle:
The Fix: I bought a roll of 6 mil plastic sheeting from Home Depot and a box of 3M strip caulk from Amazon after hitting up 6 places and not finding it (http://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Black-Strip-Calk/dp/B000PEZ1L4). Strip caulk is a tacky tar-like substance that feels sort of like Play-doh. It's pliable, sticky, and doesn't harden and doesn't seem to leave residue. Hot-rodders and restorers use it to build weather seals the same way I'm about to describe.
I lay strips along the path of the old adhesive, overlapping each strip slightly to create one continous loop. I cut a sheet of plastic larger than original barrier, and laid it in place, working from the top down. I smoothed the strip caulk down by hand and made everything was sealed before trimming the sheet down to size, adding cutouts for the door handle and wiring.
Mmm. Black licorice.
Initial fitting. The strip caulk is easy to work with, and I could lift the sheeting to pull it taut where needed.
In this case, trimming did not make it look bigger.
After another week of rain, it was bone dry. Success!
So if you're having leakage problems, or just need a new vapor barrier on your E30 (this works for any car, for that matter) this is an easy and affordable way to do it.
So here goes:
The problem: Recent rains in California turned my footwells into reservoirs deep enough to fix the drought. I cleared the elephant trunk, which had 20 years of gunk in it.
This is probably a couple years of sitting under a tree in a drier part of California.
Took out my seats, used shop rags to soak up the moisture under the carpet (I couldn't figure out how to pull the doorsills off) and used a fan to dry out the carpet overnight, which was incredibly effective. I also bought two canisters of DampRid and left them in the footwells to catch any moisture that might come up. Did a leak test by pouring water into the vents at the windshield base and all looked good, with water draining out under the fenders where they should, and no obvious leaks into the cabin.
I parked the car in the rain again, and while the passenger side was dry, the driver side was wet again.
My roommate suggested a seal or barrier might be the culprit, since he had the same problem with his VWs. I took off my door card and found the vapor barrier had shrunken, like that dude in the waiting room in Beetlejuice, leaving a gap in just the right spot to let water in.
You can see where the water was coming in.
Door card soaked (it was fine after it dried out)
Where the barrier pulled away from the bottom of the door:
The leak is more obvious from this angle:
The Fix: I bought a roll of 6 mil plastic sheeting from Home Depot and a box of 3M strip caulk from Amazon after hitting up 6 places and not finding it (http://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Black-Strip-Calk/dp/B000PEZ1L4). Strip caulk is a tacky tar-like substance that feels sort of like Play-doh. It's pliable, sticky, and doesn't harden and doesn't seem to leave residue. Hot-rodders and restorers use it to build weather seals the same way I'm about to describe.
I lay strips along the path of the old adhesive, overlapping each strip slightly to create one continous loop. I cut a sheet of plastic larger than original barrier, and laid it in place, working from the top down. I smoothed the strip caulk down by hand and made everything was sealed before trimming the sheet down to size, adding cutouts for the door handle and wiring.
Mmm. Black licorice.
Initial fitting. The strip caulk is easy to work with, and I could lift the sheeting to pull it taut where needed.
In this case, trimming did not make it look bigger.
After another week of rain, it was bone dry. Success!
So if you're having leakage problems, or just need a new vapor barrier on your E30 (this works for any car, for that matter) this is an easy and affordable way to do it.
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For Sale / Re: FS: M42 Coolant expansion tank
« on: January 23, 2015, 06:03:40 AM »Don't toss it.
More than likely I will need one before long as I have two M42's.
How about $15 shipped? Should give you enough to buy yourself taco bell for lunch?
Dean
$15 shipped sounds perfect. Shoot me a PM with info and I'll get it sent out!
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General Topics / Re: HELP! Failed CA smog with High NOx and HC numbers
« on: January 23, 2015, 05:46:32 AM »
Bringing this one back from the dead, since I can't dig up anything else on search, and would like to keep everything in one place, in case it helps someone else out. Last time I smogged the car, I failed the 15 mpg test, with high HC and HOx. I replaced the oem cat with a Catco unit, and changed the 02 sensor, which led to passing with flying colors. The smog place even used a mirror to check my cat for the CARB EO number.
When I smogged today, I failed HC and NOx, with very similar numbers as my first smog, so I think I might have some kind of issue that was covered up temporarily with a fresh cat installed.
I found posts on other BMW forums specifically naming old/dirty/lazy injectors as a cause of high HC and NOx.
So here's what I'll try, and eventually report back to this thread on:
- Oil change, new spark plugs, the usual stuff
- Check my coils to make sure they're OK (I'm running a COP conversion kit)
- Install a set of reman'd 4-hole Bosch Type-3 injectors (PN 0280155700 )
And if anyone knows, what would be the symptoms of a failed intake boot and/or FPR?
When I smogged today, I failed HC and NOx, with very similar numbers as my first smog, so I think I might have some kind of issue that was covered up temporarily with a fresh cat installed.
I found posts on other BMW forums specifically naming old/dirty/lazy injectors as a cause of high HC and NOx.
So here's what I'll try, and eventually report back to this thread on:
- Oil change, new spark plugs, the usual stuff
- Check my coils to make sure they're OK (I'm running a COP conversion kit)
- Install a set of reman'd 4-hole Bosch Type-3 injectors (PN 0280155700 )
And if anyone knows, what would be the symptoms of a failed intake boot and/or FPR?
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For Sale / FS: M42 Coolant expansion tank [SOLD]
« on: January 21, 2015, 09:30:43 PM »
SOLD!
Making room in my garage...the radiator I bought ended up coming with one, so I don't need it.
It's a Behr unit, and they're $20 on Pelican, box only opened to take it out and look at it.
Name your shipped price; I'd rather have it go to use than throw away a perfectly good part.
Making room in my garage...the radiator I bought ended up coming with one, so I don't need it.
It's a Behr unit, and they're $20 on Pelican, box only opened to take it out and look at it.
Name your shipped price; I'd rather have it go to use than throw away a perfectly good part.
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For Sale / Re: m42 DME with Mark D chip
« on: September 09, 2014, 03:10:15 AM »
Kind of a stretch, but is it still available?
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For Sale / Feeler/FS CA: 1991 318iS w/ 2.1L Metric Mechanic Engine
« on: January 29, 2013, 06:46:48 PM »
I'm a bit sad to hear that you have to sell the car. I've followed your website and car for a long time (possibly since 2006ish) and it's been such a great resource for working on my own car. Wish you the best of luck on the sale, and sorting the whole thing out!
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For Sale / 91 318is e30 Part Out Alpine White
« on: March 05, 2012, 04:46:00 AM »
Interested in:
- one of the front brake ducts (if they're available, I'll look at which one I need), one of the black ones that goes behind the bumper that goes into the wheel well.
- Passenger side taillight
- Power antenna rubber grommet
- Defroster switch
- one of the front brake ducts (if they're available, I'll look at which one I need), one of the black ones that goes behind the bumper that goes into the wheel well.
- Passenger side taillight
- Power antenna rubber grommet
- Defroster switch
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For Sale / Bilstein HD shocks
« on: March 03, 2012, 05:45:06 AM »
Are they still available? And location?
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