Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Re: o-ring M42 block with standard gasket

« on: May 06, 2014, 05:54:29 PM »

thanks mate!

my engine machinist has convinced me to go with another Cometic stainless head gasket for the time being

great to hear I inspired you to go down the turbo path! I myself found inspiration here for my build, but when I started years ago there were very few turbo M42's at the time

once i get the car running again (its been under construction the last for 3-4 years mainly due to lack of time) ill try and post some updated information as i have had many changes since the original build

2

Engine + Driveline / o-ring M42 block with standard gasket

« on: March 22, 2014, 09:51:05 PM »

Hi guys,

who has done this?

I am going to do this with my new motor but i don't know what diameter wire to use and also (more importantly) the amount of protrusion above the deck to allow for?

can anyone help with some info?

3

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: M42 Turbo Oil Return Line

« on: April 19, 2013, 05:23:52 AM »

Here is my oil return line, if you tap into the block then you need to do it when the motor is stripped down

4

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Solid lifter conversion

« on: April 13, 2013, 11:26:31 PM »

ive just recently put in solid lifters in my m42, but now after starting it for the first time the other day it seems like the valve train is now very loud

has any one else done this conversion and noticed a significant increase in engine noise? it almost has a bit of a diesel engine sound to it now

and if you have done this conversion what did you set the clerances too? mine are set to between 0.2mm and 0.25mm

5

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Turbo suggestions

« on: October 18, 2010, 02:30:49 AM »

I assume you have upgraded the internals?

yeh i have custom forged JE pistons, comp ratio 8.0:1

i have Hbeam rods in there now too, but for what you are looking at you dont need rods, the standard ones are fine, they are quite good

6

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Turbo suggestions

« on: October 17, 2010, 04:14:03 PM »

Previously I was running a GT2871R, on 20~22psi the car made 213kw at the wheels, quite a nice turbo that was, I would recommend it

I知 upgrading now to a GT3076R

7

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Solid Lifter Conversion

« on: October 16, 2010, 09:38:55 PM »

So here is what I have found so far:

These following sites sell the VW solid lifters:

(These guys don't say what the internal stem of the follower is)
http://www.crespocams.com/servlet/Detail?no=190

(These guys have a 14.7mm internal stem, requiring lash caps)
http://www.rosten-performance.com/

(I think these are also quite short requiring lash caps)
http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-audi-i5-10vturbo-lifter-solid-for-audivw-motors-p-629.html

(These guys sell camshafts and followers)
http://www.catcams.com/index.htm

Issues that I have read about while trawling though forums and numerous web sites:

Valve lengths, people have mentioned that in some cases in order to fit the solid lifter kit you need to install valves with longer stems. I believe this is so that when you have to shim the followers the shims are not too long/high which is another problem. The longer stems may also be needed to increase spring height to stop coil bind on more aggressive camshafts

Another issue that I noted are shims dislodging under very high revs, I知 guessing that this may happen if you have quite a tall shim  

Rob: what are the issues with oil pressure under high revs? Oil starvation... simply because the oil pump cannot pump enough oil?

Coil bind is an issue that I知 not sure how to go about checking. I have two sets of springs to choose from (that I currently own)

New MM beehive springs = 72 Pounds (seat pressure)

Original BMW M42 springs = 92 Pounds (seat pressure)

Previously I have put the springs into a vice and the MM springs reach full compression about ~1.1mm before the STD springs do, and it seems that when I had the MM beehives in they were valve bouncing above about 17psi when the car was being tuned. So I知 yet to be convinced that they are any good for my application, I知 thinking that they are only good for NA motors.

So at the moment I have ordered solid lifters from Top End Performance, I have been buying bits and pieces from the for a while like gaskets, pistons so I thought I壇 give them a go. They said they sell a few of these kits for the M42's so opting for their experience

If anyone has any more info or can explain some of the things I have mentioned please let me know

8

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Solid Lifter Conversion

« on: October 13, 2010, 04:18:14 AM »

I知 after a definite answer, someone who has done this

What lifters do i need to buy?

What issues are there with the conversion, if any?

I知 also installing Metric Mechanic turbo camshafts that apparently have 11.4mm lift on the intake side and 11.15mm lift on exhaust. Does this need to be taken into consideration? As opposed to Std, I think 10.2mm

Any info would be great

9

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / best size, type of turbo for the M42

« on: June 03, 2009, 09:57:42 AM »

Garett GT2871R

ex: 0.86
in: 0.6
trim: 56

has proven great on my m42

10

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Running coolant for a turbo

« on: June 01, 2009, 07:43:55 AM »

Delete your throttle body heater and use the water from there

11

Engine + Driveline / MM Turbo camshafts and MM behive springs

« on: March 18, 2009, 06:01:38 AM »

Are you 100% sure of this? I measured stock cams myself and only had lift of around 9,2-9,4 mm which is in line with what I have read from sources :confused:



I think that much lift is recipe for coil bind ie. serious problems with stock springs!

Here is info by Cat Cams:

http://www.catcams.be/datafiles/docs/springsetup13014xx1.htm

OEM springs lift at spring coil collision 10,8 mm

So your MM cams will not work with stock springs. My regrinds have max lift of 10,4 mm so I have clearace of whopping 0,4 mm... Even that is way too low, it should be around 1 mm atleast :eek:

now im not a 100% sure because i read somewhere that std lift is around what you are saying 9.4mm

the MM camshaft details are straight from their wesite

i measured the lobe on the std cams and the MM cams and it is the same?? shouldnt it be bigger??

i also put the springs into a vice and the MM springs reach full compression about ~1.1mm before the std springs do

12

Engine + Driveline / MM Turbo camshafts and MM behive springs

« on: March 17, 2009, 04:15:35 PM »

i will defiantly put the standard springs back in if i don't go for a stiffer set of springs.

and im just using the standard hydraulic lifters

standard cam's are 252 Duration 10.2mm lift (intake and exhaust)

MM cam's are 258 Duration 11.4mm lift (intake)
                   258 Duration 11.2mm lift (exhaust)

interesting u mention the maximum lift the standard springs can cope with, i never thought of this, ill have to further investigate that

13

Engine + Driveline / MM Turbo camshafts and MM behive springs

« on: March 17, 2009, 04:11:45 AM »

i bought a set of MM turbo camshafts and their valve springs.

once in i put the car on the dyno and we have not been able to push the motor past aprox 17psi because we seem to experience valve bounce where power dramiatically falls off after 17 psi and above ~5000 rpm and up

so i stripped down the motor and pulled one of the new valve springs out to get the new and old measured for valve seat pressure

New MM behive springs = 72 Pounds

Original BMW M42 springs = 92 Pounds

now im unsure of what to do

either reinstall the original springs which have seen 22~23psi, but not with this camshaft
or try and buy some new springs with a higher valve seat pressure

14

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Possible to install Turbo for RHD 318is?

« on: January 07, 2009, 05:43:29 AM »

Ive done it with a 3inch dump pipe, it is a very tight fit

15

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Oil and Coolant lines?

« on: November 10, 2008, 01:42:54 AM »

This is where i picked up my oil from, had this T-peice made up, as you can see one end is the oil pressure switch, one end is a short hose going to the original oil switch position, the third end goes to the turbo.

The oil return line i have tapped into the block, did this becasue i was not sure how high the oil level sits in the sump (you MUST tap into a point higher than the oil level) so it is garanteed to be high enough here. I have since removed the copper tube and now run a high temp oil resistant hose from the turbo down. With the copper tube i couldn't get a good seal and it always leaked.

The water you can pick up from under the throttle body, u can see the hoses comming from the turbo and going underneath that area.