Messages

1

WTB/WTT / WTB: Water pump delete plate.

« on: October 17, 2009, 02:18:11 AM »

All you would really need is a fabricated bracket, the plate, hose adapters and the pump kit.  If you do it I'd be really curious to see how much power you pick up.  Those pumps work really well, but i'm not sure how long they last compared to a stock one.

2

General Topics / The mess under the intake

« on: October 17, 2009, 02:05:09 AM »

Bringing up an old thread again... but has anyone in a cold climate (northern USA, or Canada) done this mod successfully?  I'd like to do it but I'm concerned about the effects for cold weather driving.

I had the throttle freeze on me regularly in Northern Maryland.  Driving to work in the morning typically.  Especially if it was wet from salt on the roads.  There was good grip but a lot of spray and a lot of cars on the road.  Driving at really high speed like 70-80 most of the time there was sufficient cold airflow to freeze up the throttle.  After long periods of steady open throttle the car would continue at speed when lifting the throttle or breathing the throttle for a downhill.  Generally you'd only have like 15% pedal input so you could just counter it with the brakes.  I suppose it would happen if you had 100% as well for long enough.  I'd generally just push in the clutch and rev the car a few times and it'd go away for awhile.  If it came back enough to be persistent I'd slow down and go down a gear.

3

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / My modded subframe

« on: August 18, 2009, 12:51:25 AM »

I think the car will be about 1850-1900# when done.  It's kinda sat for a few months now as I accumulated some parts and tools I needed to complete.

Car should be 50/50 evenish.  It was about 52% on the front with the engine in the stock position and the car gutted to 2200 pounds.  I will not be running a dash, bumpers, lights, and other parts.  I actually had the car running at 1950 pounds once with more parts on it than will be put back on.  My doors, trunk, hood, and lots of other parts have been skinned and modified.  But I'm adding several bars to the cage and gussets to make it safer since it was originally designed for spec.  There's even an M44 crank and rods sitting around here somewhere.  :-)

Very impressive.
how did u decide on 17cm? why not more or less?
how did u calculated this?

It was how far back I thought I could go with an easy sub frame modification and easily fit the E36 style pans.  Just a metric measuring tape initially.  I just bolted a spare sub frame to one of my engines and roughed it out.  Then rounded to 17cm for shits and giggles.

I can tell you after putting the engine back in my race car you are going to have hell on your hands...the head will hit the battery box and all that folded junk, you are going to have to cut a lot of steel unless you go dry sump and stand the motor upright.

I smell what you are stepping in.  There was a lot more metal removed than what is pictured here.  I cut it out in little stages at I test fit with additional components.  It will use solid motor/trans mounts as well.

4

Engine + Driveline / Is there any way to get a six speed?

« on: August 18, 2009, 12:11:35 AM »

Sure, the Euro E36 M3 six speeds will bolt up to the engine.  You'll need to fab a trans mount maybe, as i'm not sure if you can slide the stock one far enough back to accommodate it.  You would also need to modify the driveshaft.  You would also need to modify the shifter linkage.  Also, I doubt there is room in the tunnel.

You could also do a unit off the S54 engined cars.  Same issues as above and you'd also have to change the clutch disc.

Also, you could do a 330/Z4 six speed.  But they are a cheaper unit but more compact.  Probably easier to fit in the E30.  I think you'd also have to change the whole clutch and flywheel do the 330 style stuff in addition to the issues above.

Either way it's a waste of time.

5

Engine + Driveline / what fuel pump you guys running?

« on: August 18, 2009, 12:05:10 AM »

I use an OEM aftermarket part.  Same thing much cheaper.

6

Engine + Driveline / light weight flywheel

« on: August 18, 2009, 12:03:40 AM »

Speaking of which, I think you can use the M40 single mass stuff for an easy swap too.

pelican has a single mass flywheel for our car, for without ac,the European version they have this in stock.

Same thing, but I have this setup and it's nice.  Clutchmasters rebuilt the stock kit for me and beefed it up.  A machine shop can cut a bunch of weight off there too.  Stock for stock the M40 setup is only like 5 pounds lighter.  Mine is now 26 pounds with the clutch and flywheel together.

7

Engine + Driveline / Part # for Single Mass 318is Flywheel?

« on: February 15, 2009, 05:47:33 PM »

Yes the clutch is totally different.  I have a stock one I could take comparo pictures of if you wanted, but it's moot because they aren't interchangeable.

You aren't changing the engines power or the grip at the tires, so the stock clutch is probably fine.  My car runs bigger stickier tires, will have more power, and good suspension so I went ahead and had the clamp load increased and added extra straps.  Clutch choice is important, the wrong material or the wrong construction can make it suck to drive or not last long, or both.  This stage one I have is good for general purpose use, but I will probably put a JBRacing/PTT ultralight setup on it at some point to save even more weight.

8

Engine + Driveline / Part # for Single Mass 318is Flywheel?

« on: February 14, 2009, 10:51:12 AM »

I just told you....

You only save about five pounds off the stock clutch and flywheel by using the single mass.  It's around 40 something total pounds stock.  But you can easily shave off another 10 or so if you want to lighten it, something you can't do with a twin mass.

9

Engine + Driveline / Part # for Single Mass 318is Flywheel?

« on: February 14, 2009, 01:42:27 AM »

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2109/196/3/1260932318/n1260932318_30269336_7960.jpg

Here is my Euro/M40 setup.  I bought my clutch here in the US, some of the bigger retailers like SSF or KW keep them in stock...or used too.  You save about 5 pounds from the stock US setup by installing it, but it's still rather heavy.  The flywheel has a big ring of weight on the outside edge.  The idea is to keep the mass out far to give some more inertial energy.  I had all this shaved off my flywheel, and had clutch masters build me a custom stage one clutch off my stock core.  The result is a nice sporty 26.5 pound (about the same as a Bimmerworld/JBracing/Clutchmasters E36 M3 lightweight setup) total mass setup.    It's a nice peppy setup for my club racing car and would be great on the street.

10

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / My modded subframe

« on: February 11, 2009, 10:26:29 PM »

Here's a couple from tonight's progress.



There is a lot of open space now.  I could probably stand between the radiator and engine when done.  But..there will probably be a large duct there.  



As you can see Cylinder 4 sits basically where the heater box was inside the firewall.

11

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / My modded subframe

« on: February 07, 2009, 09:40:21 PM »

why?

Why not?



It's a racecar and I'm not running while I'm back in school.  Plenty of time to chop it up and put it back together.

12

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / My modded subframe

« on: February 07, 2009, 12:19:14 AM »

Nope, you could maybe move it back 1/4 or 1/2 inch.  It sits in the same position as the other engines.  No way to do it without getting into some cutting or welding.

The front of my engine will be at roughly the front axle center line when I'm done.

13

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / My modded subframe

« on: February 05, 2009, 09:18:46 PM »

Yeah I started marking the firewall where I need to cut.  I will use some sheetmetal to make a scatter plate and new wall.  I am running tubes from the cage up to the strut towers and making an x brace from the front subframe to get the strength back.

Yep the driveshaft will obviously have to be shortened.  I tried sitting on it but I couldn't get it to fit.  I may do a one piece driveshaft.

14

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / My modded subframe

« on: February 04, 2009, 11:32:15 PM »

power steering delete?

You can just remove the pump, cut the lines and plug them for that.  I do have an E36 rack going in shortly, I am just waiting on my friend Kevin to turn the spacers for me.

I'm actually moving the engine back 17cm (6 - 3/4 inches roughly) and probably down.  The engine pictured is the 'dummy' I built.  All internals are removed so it weighs much much less.

15

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / My modded subframe

« on: February 03, 2009, 10:47:29 PM »

Can you guess what I'm doing?  :cool: