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Engine + Driveline / 4.27 LSD Differential
« on: November 22, 2008, 05:35:16 PM »
I've got one and its great on the twisties but it can be misery on the motorway first thing in the morning.
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Engine + Driveline / Jerky when I lift off the throttle
« on: February 25, 2008, 05:40:57 PM »
I find you feel quite a lot of the engine movement on cranking and then as the revs settle - is that usual?
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Engine + Driveline / Jerky when I lift off the throttle
« on: February 24, 2008, 05:26:16 AM »
Mounts all look fine -engine ones are ex-pensive:eek: But it would be worth it if it sorted this out. ANyone have any pics of what newish ones look like?
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General Topics / Bought a car that won't start
« on: February 06, 2008, 06:46:32 PM »
you bought a car that won't start and it was just the leads. :cool: class
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Engine + Driveline / Breather pipe and TB full of crud
« on: February 06, 2008, 11:54:27 AM »
okay a month or so later bad news! Breather is again full of crud. I'm a bit worried about this -water is getting in there from somewhere, worst case scenario its from the cylinders. I checked for mayo. Tiny amount on dipstick and cap -but what I'd usually expect anyway from opening them in this damp climate, none found in coolant. Going on a hose replacing frenzy in the meantime. Any ideas?
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General Topics / Horrible gas mileage out of my M42
« on: January 07, 2008, 04:30:15 AM »
Try the blue temperature sensor just about accessible under the inlet manifold. Test it with the engine cold and hot with a multimeter -should be about 300ohms cold and 3-4 k hot IIRC. If its gone engine could think its cold all the time and overfuel. Most common thing here in the UK but I don't see it mentioned much on this forum.
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Engine + Driveline / Breather pipe and TB full of crud
« on: December 24, 2007, 05:38:47 PM »
Thanks -that sounds likely, will do that and keep an eye on it.
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Engine + Driveline / Breather pipe and TB full of crud
« on: December 24, 2007, 10:41:04 AM »
Looking to cure a slight idling fault I recently pulled the pipe between the TB and #17 here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF92&mospid=47256&btnr=11_0560&hg=11&fg=35
It was full of mayo/mustard/earwax type crap obviously from oil and water mixing. I removed the TB and found more of the stuff so removed the intake manifold and had a better look around. The breather pipe has lots of gunk in it but in hose #17 I can see water if I squeeze it - I see there is a coolant channel running through here -could I have a slight coolant leak in this pipe?? Any ideas -these pipes seem to be no end of trouble. I did bypass the heater plate about six or eight months ago and looking at it now with a little more experience working on cars I did the jubilee clips up a bit tight -other than that I can't see any problems. Might just remove the inner manifold too and replace everything I can find.:confused: But I don't really want to spend Christmas messing about with M42 vaccuum and coolant hoses:rolleyes:
Thanks for any help guys.
It was full of mayo/mustard/earwax type crap obviously from oil and water mixing. I removed the TB and found more of the stuff so removed the intake manifold and had a better look around. The breather pipe has lots of gunk in it but in hose #17 I can see water if I squeeze it - I see there is a coolant channel running through here -could I have a slight coolant leak in this pipe?? Any ideas -these pipes seem to be no end of trouble. I did bypass the heater plate about six or eight months ago and looking at it now with a little more experience working on cars I did the jubilee clips up a bit tight -other than that I can't see any problems. Might just remove the inner manifold too and replace everything I can find.:confused: But I don't really want to spend Christmas messing about with M42 vaccuum and coolant hoses:rolleyes:
Thanks for any help guys.
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Suspension / Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« on: November 14, 2007, 05:44:56 AM »
Somewhere on here there is a good tip - when you're dropping the subframe (once you've removed the bolt etc.) get a tap -m12 or 14 IIRC and thread it up the middle of the purple bit from under the car. Get inside the car, stick a nut down the hole to save your tap from getting wrecked, stick a bar down the hole and whack it from inside the car with a big hammer. Hopefully distributing the force down the whole tube and not just on the point where it goes into the cars body.
Its actually not that difficult to get the bit out though, once you cut a groove in on one side it weakens the thing a lot.
Its actually not that difficult to get the bit out though, once you cut a groove in on one side it weakens the thing a lot.
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Engine + Driveline / Jerky when I lift off the throttle
« on: October 31, 2007, 06:53:07 PM »
Doesn't seem to be a fuel problem -new fpr, new rail, injectors cleaned (from when I developed a leak under the intake manifold -at the time I hoped that would sort things:rolleyes:), new filter, new hard lines lines, recent pump. Been busy.
What should I look for with the leads, plugs etc.?
What should I look for with the leads, plugs etc.?
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Engine + Driveline / Jerky when I lift off the throttle
« on: October 31, 2007, 06:01:47 PM »
hmm haven't checked them yet but could make some sense as I also have an annoying idle which gets bad under load -ie. a little worse with lights on, worse with full beams, a pig with full beams, fogs, rear demister etc. on. But never stalls -could this be related?
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Engine + Driveline / Jerky when I lift off the throttle
« on: October 31, 2007, 05:34:24 PM »
I've just replaced centre bearing (preloaded properly too:)), diff, subframe bushes, diff bush etc. AND i STILL have a jerky car at low speeds. Double checked there is no play in the driveline. Guibo fine etc. Does anyone know are there any other causes of a jerky lift off?? AFM? :confused: are ISs just jerky??
Thanks
Thanks
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Electrical / Fuel pump short switch
« on: October 23, 2007, 11:10:56 AM »
You could also do it where the wires come into the car through the firewall behind the fuse box -I believe its the purple and green one - keeps things away from the fuel tank.
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Electrical / Fuel pump short switch
« on: October 22, 2007, 05:53:09 PM »
mmm but I like the pump idea for a few reasons -the ignition wire is pretty much an immobilizer and a bit more predictable, if someone finds it they can drive off without having to change a fuse (though I suppose there's some you could swap -IF you found the switch so it wouldn't short again) and the fuel pump shorting will seem more like a fault in an old car. The wiring (on uk cars) is just behind the glovebox so pretty accessible as is an earth point. Ordered a few switches rated for 20A and 16A so will have a go and let you know.
I'll have to use good thick wire and test the switches properly but won't be anywhere near fuel.
I'll have to use good thick wire and test the switches properly but won't be anywhere near fuel.
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Electrical / Fuel pump short switch
« on: October 22, 2007, 05:27:37 AM »
I hadn't thought of that -though it may be beyond my meager understanding of car electrics. I definitely think blowing the fuse with a short is the best way I bet few thieves carry fuses about. I might just get a few switches and see what happens...