Messages

1

For Sale / Re: Valve cover, fuel rail and injectors (NJ)

« on: March 26, 2014, 02:50:35 PM »

bump

2

For Sale / Re: Misc. leftover stuff -- Updated 2/22/14

« on: February 22, 2014, 01:29:04 PM »

Back from the dead. Bump.

3

For Sale / Valve cover, fuel rail and injectors (NJ)

« on: June 23, 2013, 02:00:03 PM »

I'm back in the M20 fold, so I have a bunch of 4-banger stuff taking up space.  All prices are obo and do not include shipping (from Cranford NJ 07016):

M42 Valve Cover $35:


Fuel Rail and Pipes $5; Stock Injectors $20; Skinnies Sold:


Stock Injectors:

4

For Sale / SOLD. 1991 318is 126k Brillant/Tan (NJ). SOLD

« on: May 08, 2013, 09:11:20 AM »

SOLD. SOLD.  SOLD.  After three great years, I've got the itch to move on.  (Three years is an eternity for me -- my previous "second" cars have each had 1-year life spans before I got the itch -- '89 325iC, '95 318ti, '91 318iS, '84 633 . . .)

I bought this car in May 2010 from a “collector” outside of Boston. The previous owner purportedly serviced the car with Turner Motorsport, but I have no documentation for any work done prior to my purchase.  I have receipts and a list documenting the work I've done.


Basics:
1991 318iS
Brillantrot/tan interior
126k miles
Sunroof (sorry, no slicktop)

Interior:
Front seats – cloth sport seats from a ‘vert.  Not perfect, but very grippy.
370mm M-tech II steering wheel (turn signal and wiper stalks also swapped to pre-airbag stalks)
JVC AM/FM/CD/AUX head unit with matching illumination
Husco armrest/dual cupholder
E38 rear headrests
Remote unlocking
ZHP shift knob

Exterior:
Rear license plate filler
Hella H4 low beams
Black sidemarkers
Euro grills
Euro wide angle side mirror glass

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
H&R OE Sport Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks
Ireland Engineering RSMs
Hawk Ceramic Brake Pads all around
Balo front rotors
M3 offset CABs
New tie rod ends
iX rear sway bar with new links
21mm ‘vert front sway bar with new bushings and links
Rattle-can resprayed Style 10s with almost-new 205/55/15 Yokohama S-Drive tires

Engine/Driveline:
COP conversion
Timing chain tensioner
Synthetic oil/trans/diff fluid
Replaced rear diff seal/installed Urethane diff mount (AKG 80A)
NOS Eberspaecher muffler
New Throttle cable
New fuel pump
Z3 shifter/UUC delrin bushings
Mark D 91 octane chip
Ate Typ 200 brake fluid
New Duralast Battery
Valve cover gasket
Painted valve cover and intake manifold
Partial De-Mess under the intake
4.10 LSD

Issues:
Failed emissions inspection – rich at idle.  Stomp code 1223.  Since I replaced the coolant temp sensor, I have to believe it’s the wire running from the sensor.  I haven’t been able to bring myself to re-tear apart the intake to try to trace it down.
Clearcoat is lifting/peeling on the roof.  The car shows signs of a respray, but the extent of the respray is unknown.  There are various minor dings and dents, but it looks great from 10 feet.
AC is not working.  There was no AC belt when I bought the car.  When I installed one, it shredded itself soon afterwards.  I have not tried to track down the issue.

Bottom line is, this car is a nice, low-mileage, solid-bodied, mechanically-sound driver.  I'm sure I'll regret selling, but I'll have a new teen driver in the house within the next year.  My plan is to get a convertible for convertible season, and then a reliable/boring beginner-drivers car early next year.

Asking $SOLD, or possible trade for a 'vert.

Current Pictures here: https://picasaweb.google.com/BistroNine/1991318iS?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Other pics here: https://picasaweb.google.com/BistroNine/318iS?authuser=0&feat=directlink

5

For Sale / WTB: Wheels. something cheap. no bottlecaps. nj/nyc area

« on: March 13, 2012, 05:27:47 PM »

Hey guys. I need to get some wheels. Baskets, whatever stock, whatever you got. preferably in 15". 14" baskets would be fine too.

Just anything cheap, and not painted.

Lets see what you got.

Borbet Type Cs?

Here's a repost of my r3v ad:

Time to thin out my stockpile.  Selling a set of four 15x7 ET30 Borbet Type Cs.  They're in fair-to-good cosmetic condition, with no obvious bends or dents.  One of the wheels has some caked on brake dust; they all have moderate amounts of curb rash.  From 10 feet or so, they look fine.  

Two of the mounted tires are shot.  The other two are 205/60/15 Michelin Pilot Alpin H-rated snows with 6-7/32" tread remaining.  No center caps.  Asking $250, plus shipping from NJ.



This is how they looked on my car when I test-fitted them and rolled out of the garage:



More pics at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/BistroNine/TypeCs?authuser=0&feat=directlink

6

For Sale / WTT/WTS 1991 318is 79k mint cloth interior

« on: September 01, 2010, 07:42:18 PM »

Where are you located? Any pictures?

240=Central MD

Cloth int.=FTW

7

Electrical / fuel pump/non-start issues - been doing lots of research, still NEED HELP... please >

« on: June 21, 2010, 10:17:29 AM »

Have you cleaned the ICV (idle control valve)?
When  was the last time the O2 sensor was replaced ?

Cleaning the ICV stopped the cold-start stumble, and I haven't seen a CEL since cleaning it.  I had to give it a thorough soaking with carb cleaner, and essentially "jump-start" it by apply 12v directly.  After a couple of rounds of that, it finally started to hum again when reconnected in the engine bay.  The bad news is that it only gave me a reading of 8 ohms, so I will need to replace it.  But at least now I can keep driving it while I assemble the "mess under the intake" materials.

8

Electrical / fuel pump/non-start issues - been doing lots of research, still NEED HELP... please >

« on: June 17, 2010, 10:08:45 PM »

Mine did exactly the same thing a year ago.  Hit a bump, actually, more like an expansion joint.   I wouldn't have even noticed it except as you say, the engine died immediately.  It was indeed a dead fuel pump.  If your tank is too full, try jacking the passenger side of the car to raise the pump side enough to get the pump out without making a mess.  If that doesn't work, try siphonng the gas out through the fuel pump exit.  Also, find a DIY thread on removing the pump as it is tricky and involves some odd twists and contortions of the pump as it also holds the float (I think), or is quite near it.

Replacing the pump with a good used pump worked for me, but now I'm throwing a CEL at idle.  Prior to the fuel pump failure, the car would stumble a few times on a cold start before settling in to a nice smooth ~750rpm idle.  There were no CEL issues and no stomp test codes even with the dead fuel pump.  

Now the engine stumbles harder and longer after a cold start.  Even after it's warmed up, the check engine light comes on when idling for about a minute.  Tapping the accelerator makes the CEL temporarily go away until the next time it sits at idle for about a minute.  Stomp test gives me the ever-popular 1222 lambda code.  Aside from the CEL, the engine runs smoothly and accelerates fine.

I found some split hoses under the intake, and patched them up with duct tape, with no effect on the cold start or the CEL.  Adjusting the throttle to give a higher (1000rpm) idle had no effect on the CEL.  Even at the higher-rpm idle, the CEL will still come on, while a quick stab of the throttle clears the light.

Any ideas on what might be the most likely culprit for the 1222 code before I start running through the whole list?

9

General Topics / Best Price For New Front Bilstein Sport?

« on: June 07, 2010, 02:20:00 PM »

I am on the hunt for the best price on a set of front sport bilstein struts for my 91 318is with Eibach drop...

Have found:

$223.10 Bavarian Autosport (Thanks to beta14ok)!!!

http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp

244.38 shipped from Parts Geek WITH SAVE3 SOURCE CODE TO SAVE $3

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1991/bmw/318is/suspension/strut_insert.html

275.91 shipped from Velocity Motor Cars

http://www.velocitymotorcars.com/cart.php

Hope you all have a better source!!!

Thanks m42club!

Let me know what you think or your experiences with these companys!

Thanks

I tried the BavAuto route a couple weeks ago, as they were the cheapest I could find.  I received an email indicating they were backordered, and that they expected them in 2-4 days.  1 week later, I called and was told they expected it to be an additional week.  I cancelled my order from BavAuto, and ordered the Bilsteins from Zygmunt (bimmerparts.com).  They were more expensive, but they had them in-stock, and I received them next-day.

10

Electrical / fuel pump/non-start issues - been doing lots of research, still NEED HELP... please >

« on: May 29, 2010, 09:24:30 AM »

Resurrecting the best diagnosis thread out there. . .

Here's my story.  I bought a '91 318iS with 114k miles about 3 weeks ago.  It had run flawlessly.  (The only exception is when starting cold, it would stumble once or twice before settling in to a nice smooth idle.)

Earlier this week, I was driving home when the car hit a decent-sized bump, and the engine stopped dead.  After coasting into a parking lot, the car would crank, but not fire.  After getting towed home, I found this thread and started running through some of the diagnostics.  Here's what I've checked so far:

1. After removing the rear seat and the fuel pump access cover, there's no sound coming from the fuel pump with the key on.

2. Stomp test gives me the 1444

3. Crank position sensor reads 550 ohms

4. Cam position sensor reads 1150 ohms

5. Fuse 11 is fine

6. I get no voltage at the fuel pump harness connector with the fuel pump relay installed and key on

7. I do get proper voltage at the harness connector with tabs 87 and 30 jumpered and key on, but the fuel pump still makes no noise when the wires are reconnected.  Still no noise when jiggling the wires.

8. Fusible link doesn't show any obvious signs of having burned up

9. Check engine light does come on with the key in the on position

10. I haven't removed the fuel pump to test it externally because the gas tank is all the way full.  As soon as I loosen the nuts holding it in place, gas starts leaking very quickly.  

Putting all of this together, I'm led to believe that I have a bad fuel pump relay (6 & 7 above), and that I have a bad fuel pump (7).  Is my logic sound enough to warrant ordering up a new fuel pump and relay, or should I perform more tests first?

Thanks in advance!

11

WTB/WTT / WTB: Lowerings springs for '91 318iS

« on: May 10, 2010, 10:20:14 AM »

Looking for mild-to-moderate lowering springs for a '91 318iS -- something to drop the car 1-1.5" or so. Let me know what you have. . .

12

For Sale / FS (CT): Complete m42 engine/harness/tans/ecu; $250

« on: March 10, 2010, 06:05:22 AM »

Where in CT?

Strut brace is being used on my other car and I have sold off lots of pieces already but tons of other random parts lying around that I was going to list up at another time.

I havn't scrapped the rest of the car yet, the shell is sitting in my backyard and all the other parts are scattered around my yard or sold.

13

For Sale / FS: NY/CT/NJ/PA - 15 inch Euro Weaves w/ New Tires - $800

« on: February 21, 2010, 07:56:25 PM »

Does this mean you're the proud owner of another slicktop?

14

Transaction Feedback / twinpop171

« on: May 13, 2008, 06:17:53 AM »

Bought a used Dynomax muffler from him.  Kept me updated on shipping, and gave good tips for installation.  The muffler was packed extremely well, and arrived exactly as described.  I would not hesitate to purchase anything else from him.  Highly Recommended!

15

Engine + Driveline / No-Start -- Head gasket diagnosis?

« on: April 08, 2008, 07:56:57 PM »

Re-tested again tonight, at full operating temp.

Dry test:
#1 - 160 #2 - 155 #3 - 165 #4 - 180
Wet test:
#1 - 180 #2 - 185 #3 - 200 #4 - 205

The car is running fine, with no obvious loss of power.  Any ideas on what I'm in for?

Is this a hot or cold compression test?

There's 20% between the lower and upper values for compression - the engine is borderline as far as compression goes.  Might try it again with a little bit of oil in the cylinder to see if it's the rings.