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Messages - n2motorsports

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1
WTB/WTT / Wtb or rent crankshaft holding tool
« on: July 14, 2020, 02:01:49 AM »
Trying to remove front cover to do a profile gasket.  Let me know if you're willing to part with or just want to rent out. Thanks.

2
Engine + Driveline / Re: Bottom block prep for headgasket
« on: July 13, 2020, 10:10:38 PM »
Thanks for all the input so far.  Been intermittently working on the car just due to the heatwave and the car fully exposed to the elements.  Today got another few hours in with a brass brush but it wasnt cutting into the dark carbon, so I used some green scotchbright pads and this is what it looks like now.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UcLnRXDsbQVeCFG38

I read how the tiny particales in the scotchbright could really destroy the engine so I was very careful and vacuumed oftenly.

I wonder if I could unplug the engine coolant drain plug and rinse the block with water?  Of course I'd have to plug up all the oil holes but then I'm not 100% sure which holes are oil vs water?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kxibx8aRjce4LSty6
Oil holes https://imgur.com/a/GVax73S

Oil hole in red
Questionable in green
The rest coolant and head bolts



3
Zombie thread!

Just got my head back from machine shop with some pitting as well.  Hope this isnt too bad for jb weld?  Thoights?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZxZyCdooXCzTwKvX9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GJ1PNnM5a4ZTuARi9

As you can see, the coolant ate thru, I checked with a flashlight.   Machine shop didnt think it was a big deal, and I kind of agree, since it's a closed system so some seepage from the head to radiator cant hurt.  Only thing blocking the coolant in the head is the thermostat, which opens at operating temps anyways?  Might take a few extra minutes to warm up, but I live in a warm climate so that should matter.  Ok, just ranting on now...thanks

4
Engine + Driveline / Re: Bottom block prep for headgasket
« on: July 09, 2020, 03:29:13 PM »
Bmwman91 thanks for walking me thru this.

As tempting as a roloc atyle disc is, I agree with you that it might do more harm.  Atleast with a pad, you can sort of control the pressure and removing of material better.  A trick I did learn on YT, is to fill up the holes with shaving cream and vacuum it out.

So, I ended up turning the engine by hand, and there was maybe a little resistance but now its stuck with the 2 middle pistons 95% up.  Car is in neutral, I havent tried with a breaker bar yet,    just worried about breaking something.  My fear is the timing chain is maybe wedged somehow?  Can  I turn the engine counterclockwise?

As for the HG, I confirmed that I do have a m42.  Forgot, the m44 lasted 3 months, we just transferred over the plastic oil filter housing, which threw me off.

Lastly, did you bother changing out the profile gasket?  Looks like there is a metal gasket poking out of the lower timing chain cover.  Read that's a pain to remove yet probably a good time to swap plastic guides as well.   Thanks!

Edit... I have an m42 from a e36.  Good news finally because everything should line up.  Verified when my supplied valve seals do not fit.  Later m42 valve diameter were 6mm vs 7mm.

5
Engine + Driveline / Re: Bottom block prep for headgasket
« on: July 06, 2020, 10:59:58 PM »
Here the block, I really cant tell where the failure point was.  Zero gasket material, suppose that's good.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hJm4SpUPEBxeZD8N7

Purchased some plastic scrapers.  Went thru 2 bottles of brake cleaner and basically looks the same.  I'm so tempted to use some sort of pot scrubbing pad but dont wanna risk over doing it.

Also, just realized I swapped in a m44 like 8 years ago, so will my headgasket kit work?  Speaking of the kit, there are orange plastic bits, anybody know what it's for?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wxfpFMXpCySb6PRZ6


6
Engine + Driveline / Bottom block prep for headgasket
« on: July 04, 2020, 08:10:29 PM »
Hi all, I just did a lengthy post but pics wouldnt attached so I am abandoning that all together and go straight to my question.
The head is pulled and sending to machine shop on monday.  In the mean time, I need to clean the bottom end.  Questions are
1.  Can I be very liberal with the brake cleaner or should I plugs holes and such to prevent it reaching into block.
2.  To clean the tops of the 2 middle pistons, should I rotate the crank and will I lose TDC, if so, why does everyone wire or zip tie the sprockets and chain?

Thanks all, it's good to be back working on the e30, been a minute

7
Engine + Driveline / Re: oil pressure light
« on: October 20, 2013, 10:16:04 PM »
Today I dropped the oil pan.  Most of the bolts were snug except for the one in front of the oil pick up.  Apparently the mechanic over torqued the bolt and stripped it.  My ocd got the better of me and so I attempted to drop the upper pan to helicoil it but one of those torx bolt was stripped And sstopped me dead in my tracks.

Found some brown rubbery bits at the bottom of the screen as well.  Wonder where they came from?

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/siuw60c27jvb0ru/UwwmgTle52


8
Engine + Driveline / Re: oil pressure light
« on: October 16, 2013, 12:10:40 AM »
Yes the temp gauge is wacky and I've swapped both sensor harnesses..  Traced it back to a short in the black rectangular box underneath the throttle body.  Definitely some electrical gremlins but I still suspect some loose bolts in the pan because I hear a very distinct "air sucking" tap under the valve cover.  Leads me to believe oil pump maybe sucking air. 

9
Engine + Driveline / Re: oil pressure light
« on: October 15, 2013, 10:37:40 AM »
so I've been putting off working on the car forever.

Geoff - i'm gonna pull the oil pan off to check, i don't know why i trusted the guy that installed the motor for me.  however, this is my question... when should you pull the upper oil pan?  would like to just pull the lower pan and check the bolts, if they have all fell off then i should probably remove the upper since the gasket may have slid out of place?

in short, when should you pull the upper oil pan?

10
story on motor mount?  were they replaced recently, if so when?  mileage?  etc.

thanks.

11
Engine + Driveline / Re: volvo fan installed. now what?
« on: April 26, 2013, 11:06:19 AM »
Thanks everyone that's inputted.   I did all those test and everything worked as it should then itt dawned on me that I never really bleed the system.   So I go find a hill and pour 1/3 a gallon of distilled water in there and now the fan kicks in automatically!  Damn air bubbles!  Now im moving on to the 1223 error and temp gauge problem.

12
Engine + Driveline / volvo fan installed. now what?
« on: March 24, 2013, 02:43:38 PM »
Finally gave up on running both fans so I went the easy route and used the aux harness to run the volvo fan. 

Here's the problem the fan doesn't turn on unless I hit the ac button. Is that how you guys are running it?  At freeway speeds its not a problem but city driving I have to hit that switch at all lights.  Btw my temp gauge crapped out so I can't tell what temps im running.   So the question is.. does your volvo fan kick in automatically?  Does your fan turn off automatically once the temps go down?  Other notes.  I swapped the temp sensor to the new one and replaced fuse #3 to a 25 amp.

Thanks.

13
Engine + Driveline / Finally--Electric fan
« on: August 14, 2012, 07:49:32 PM »
Quote from: Wizard;72604







okay, using wizard's pic.

Just want to run this by you guys to see what you think.  

I plan to splice the yellow wires into the rad temp sensor, hi to hi, low to low, then simply run the last red wire to the battery with a inline fuse.  Sound good?   Should be able to keep the aux fan independent correct?  If it overloads the alt, I'll simply disable the aux fan.

14
Engine + Driveline / Finally--Electric fan
« on: August 12, 2012, 11:33:28 PM »
any updates on this?  I would really like to wire my fan up this way with the advantage of it being independent of the aux fan.

15
For Sale / FS: Complete (almost) M42 engine for parts
« on: June 04, 2012, 01:52:08 AM »
Random... do you have alternator bracket with both bolts?

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