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General Topics / help me pick wheels/tires for track days
« on: September 04, 2012, 08:30:41 AM »
yes - stock suspension locations.
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General Topics / help me pick wheels/tires for track days
« on: September 03, 2012, 10:00:10 PM »
Owned my 318is for at least 10 years now... used to autocross it a lot as a daily driver. Now, it mostly sits and takes up space. About once a year I take it for a lapping day at a local track. My friends go and have newer/faster cars, and I'm envious of the traction they get from wider/better tires.
I've already got reasonable suspension (H&R springs, Koni adjustable shocks, and RD oversized sway bars all around etc.
Looking to go with a 15 or 16" wheel, as wide as possible w/o rubbing. I'm not against rolling the inner fender lip but don't want to really affect the outer appearance if I can.
IT won't get used a ton, so not looking to get into a $1500 wheel set... something in the $500 range + tires.
So, what are my options on wheels, offsets, and wheres my best tire selection (15" vs 16")?
I'm thinking at least som 215 or maybe 225 wide tires?
Running Falken Azenis in a 195 width and they just don't cut it anymore. I can throw into a corner and get the front and rear loose at the same time
Fun, but slow.
I've already got reasonable suspension (H&R springs, Koni adjustable shocks, and RD oversized sway bars all around etc.
Looking to go with a 15 or 16" wheel, as wide as possible w/o rubbing. I'm not against rolling the inner fender lip but don't want to really affect the outer appearance if I can.
IT won't get used a ton, so not looking to get into a $1500 wheel set... something in the $500 range + tires.
So, what are my options on wheels, offsets, and wheres my best tire selection (15" vs 16")?
I'm thinking at least som 215 or maybe 225 wide tires?
Running Falken Azenis in a 195 width and they just don't cut it anymore. I can throw into a corner and get the front and rear loose at the same time
Fun, but slow.
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For Sale / Complete turbo m42 with ecu & 5 speed
« on: September 02, 2012, 03:07:53 PM »
I live in OKC. Whats your first name?
Do you have any way to show how it ran at all, or the motor running with all this installed?
Just finished an OKZCC lapping day - i need more powwa!
Do you have any way to show how it ran at all, or the motor running with all this installed?
Just finished an OKZCC lapping day - i need more powwa!
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General Topics / Junkyard E30 in OKC - decent parts left
« on: August 15, 2011, 03:49:24 PM »
Was dinking around in the Pull-a-part lot in OKC last weekend and ran across two e-30's... with with diving board bumpers.
The better of the two (325) has an electric sun-roof, and KYB Adjustable struts/shocks on it, and green springs in the front. (rear springs are gone).
Also has drilled/slotted rotors, but the slots are mostly gone - i'm thinking they're toast.
Most of the motor is still there, I pulled the computer readout panel off it as well as the overhead display, and the A/C switch.
Also, has cruise control.
Didn't expect to see any in there - was mainly looking for a volvo to pull the spoiler lip and fan off of... which i found, both from the same car
The better of the two (325) has an electric sun-roof, and KYB Adjustable struts/shocks on it, and green springs in the front. (rear springs are gone).
Also has drilled/slotted rotors, but the slots are mostly gone - i'm thinking they're toast.
Most of the motor is still there, I pulled the computer readout panel off it as well as the overhead display, and the A/C switch.
Also, has cruise control.
Didn't expect to see any in there - was mainly looking for a volvo to pull the spoiler lip and fan off of... which i found, both from the same car
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Engine + Driveline / RPM's cut out temporarily at 3,500 RPM's
« on: July 28, 2011, 05:17:11 PM »
I'm starting to think we're the only two people on this forum? lol.
just happy i'm not on here talking to *myself*!!!
My conclusion was the same. I just wanted a second opinion.... looks like its time to find a lower mileage AFM off a J/Y car... or ebay...
just happy i'm not on here talking to *myself*!!!
My conclusion was the same. I just wanted a second opinion.... looks like its time to find a lower mileage AFM off a J/Y car... or ebay...
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Engine + Driveline / RPM's cut out temporarily at 3,500 RPM's
« on: July 28, 2011, 03:33:47 PM »
bringing the old '91 318is back to life... most everything is working well, but i suspect i have just found another problem (i have an idea, but i'll not mention it to see if its the same thing you guys think)...
rev the motor to 3500, and give or take a few rpm's, it'll cut out instantly and drop RPM's and just as quickly come right back up to speed...
Independent of gears, or throttle position. i.e. if i hold it WOT from 1k RPM's and let it climb, it'll cut out as it passes 3500... same as if i back off and let it drop down to 3500, or hold it at 3500... the TPS is at a different location each time, so doubt its the TPS.
doubt it matters... has COP conversion and "stang" injectors (both seem to work well aside from this issue).
video of it sitting in neutral... you can't hear the motor cut out, but it follows the tach as the tach drops in and out at 3,500 RPM's.
NOTE: by the way, do we really have to sensor the word *****ded? (thats imbedded spelled correctly)... i mean really? Im trying to *imbed* the video of my tach, and i cant even spell it right, much less actually imbed it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muDoDaGK6hw
rev the motor to 3500, and give or take a few rpm's, it'll cut out instantly and drop RPM's and just as quickly come right back up to speed...
Independent of gears, or throttle position. i.e. if i hold it WOT from 1k RPM's and let it climb, it'll cut out as it passes 3500... same as if i back off and let it drop down to 3500, or hold it at 3500... the TPS is at a different location each time, so doubt its the TPS.
doubt it matters... has COP conversion and "stang" injectors (both seem to work well aside from this issue).
video of it sitting in neutral... you can't hear the motor cut out, but it follows the tach as the tach drops in and out at 3,500 RPM's.
NOTE: by the way, do we really have to sensor the word *****ded? (thats imbedded spelled correctly)... i mean really? Im trying to *imbed* the video of my tach, and i cant even spell it right, much less actually imbed it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muDoDaGK6hw
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Engine + Driveline / Terrible sound from the head.. M42 E30
« on: July 15, 2011, 08:28:44 AM »
have you pulled the upper oil pan off by chance?
We rebuilt my motor years ago because of horrible lifter noise - i.e. oil starvation to the top end. Turned out the only problem was the gasket between the upper pan and the block had a small break in the gasket right in front of the oil passage from the pickup tube and was letting air get sucked into the oil pump. Might be worth a look if your lifters aren't filling up with oil.
My noise would come and go at lower RPM's... i.e. spin the motor up and it would pump more volume of oil through and the lifters would quiet down, but at idle to 1200RPM or so it would sound like someone pored a bag of steel marbles into the valve cover.
The sad part is i ran the car like that for probably 5K miles or more... just holding the idle a little high at stop lights to keep the motor "quiet" until i had a chance to tear it down. I lucked out and there was 0 damage to the head.
We rebuilt my motor years ago because of horrible lifter noise - i.e. oil starvation to the top end. Turned out the only problem was the gasket between the upper pan and the block had a small break in the gasket right in front of the oil passage from the pickup tube and was letting air get sucked into the oil pump. Might be worth a look if your lifters aren't filling up with oil.
My noise would come and go at lower RPM's... i.e. spin the motor up and it would pump more volume of oil through and the lifters would quiet down, but at idle to 1200RPM or so it would sound like someone pored a bag of steel marbles into the valve cover.
The sad part is i ran the car like that for probably 5K miles or more... just holding the idle a little high at stop lights to keep the motor "quiet" until i had a chance to tear it down. I lucked out and there was 0 damage to the head.
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Electrical / Speedometer not working but Tach & MPG still do
« on: July 10, 2011, 05:06:25 PM »
also, the odometer does not work, but the tiny gear had a tooth missing, and the big gear has a couple broken off...
I fiddled around with the diff sensor... its got crimp type butt splice about 4" from the sensor itself. seemed strange to me, like maybe its been replaced before? Wires seemed firmly attached - i actually pulled on them a bit to see if they would fail under stress (assuming the would be corroded) but they didn't budge. Again, i think its working because the MPG gauge is still working.
I fiddled around with the diff sensor... its got crimp type butt splice about 4" from the sensor itself. seemed strange to me, like maybe its been replaced before? Wires seemed firmly attached - i actually pulled on them a bit to see if they would fail under stress (assuming the would be corroded) but they didn't budge. Again, i think its working because the MPG gauge is still working.
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Electrical / Speedometer not working but Tach & MPG still do
« on: July 10, 2011, 05:04:36 PM »
I pulled my VDO gauges out to mess with a glitchy tach problem the other day.. everything else worked great other than the tach.
I swapped out for another that i had laying around for years. I have a set of needles off an e36 i think and i had transplanted one onto the tach years go (not a straight fit - required modifying the backside of the needle), so i modified another needle and fit it to the Speedo.
I reinstalled the gauges and now everything works but the speedo. Even the MPG works...
if i understand right, the MPG gauge makes it calculations off of RPM's, and Speed, and TPS.... right? So if any one of those three weren't producing a signal, the gauge wouldn't work right?
If thats right, then its the speedo gauge itself thats bad right?
I've already pulled the speedo, logic board, and the little blue "key" (in the front) and re-soldered them all. No luck.
What i dont get is that it was working fine until i R&R'ed the gauges... the ONLY thing i changed on it was the needle. I think the needle is a TINY bit heavier, but surely not so much it keeps it from moving?
I swapped out for another that i had laying around for years. I have a set of needles off an e36 i think and i had transplanted one onto the tach years go (not a straight fit - required modifying the backside of the needle), so i modified another needle and fit it to the Speedo.
I reinstalled the gauges and now everything works but the speedo. Even the MPG works...
if i understand right, the MPG gauge makes it calculations off of RPM's, and Speed, and TPS.... right? So if any one of those three weren't producing a signal, the gauge wouldn't work right?
If thats right, then its the speedo gauge itself thats bad right?
I've already pulled the speedo, logic board, and the little blue "key" (in the front) and re-soldered them all. No luck.
What i dont get is that it was working fine until i R&R'ed the gauges... the ONLY thing i changed on it was the needle. I think the needle is a TINY bit heavier, but surely not so much it keeps it from moving?
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Electrical / How-To: Install An Omega REC-43T Keyless Entry Module
« on: July 01, 2011, 02:16:51 PM »
all done! yay.
i'm pretty sure that if i use the output from the blue wire, run it to a simple relay, and connect the output of the relay to the left and right blinker wires, i can get the hazard lights to flash... i'll report back if i try it and have any luck.
i'm pretty sure that if i use the output from the blue wire, run it to a simple relay, and connect the output of the relay to the left and right blinker wires, i can get the hazard lights to flash... i'll report back if i try it and have any luck.
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Electrical / E30 Relay Socket Identification
« on: June 30, 2011, 12:32:58 AM »
supposedly they don't do anything because they die quickly... and then the lighting just becomes an on-off function instead of either a timed function or dimming function (i can't remember which its supposed to be).
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Electrical / Wiper motor problems
« on: June 30, 2011, 12:30:43 AM »
well... more good news.
I started out checking the grounds from the schematic... those looked good.
I checked to make sure my switch worked correctly - it did.
Then i started tracing continuity from the switch to the fuse box (the switch basically passes ground on several different wires to the big relay in the fusebox).
Easy way to do this was the schematic has the relay pin labeled on it, and of course they're labeled on the bottom of the relay as well... translate that to the pinout on the fusebox and it all makes sense...
High speed checked out OK of course, and then i went to test the low speed, and looked at the hole in the fusebox and realized there was no metal on the "inside"... oops. Turns out the connector on the backside had pushed out of the plastic slot and wasn't making good connection.
I opened up the fusebox (three screws, top left, bottom, and bottom right under the foglight relay) and shoved everything back in place while re-installing the original wiper relay.
Everything works now... well, aside from the washer PUMP which i've determined is burnt out, and probably what my brother/sister-n-law was smelling inside the cab. Still smells burnt even now.
So, there you have it... check your wiring/connections - pretty easy for it to be one of the causes of only half of the windshield wiper speeds working. (although i also believe my original replacement motor was burnt/burning out as well - it was very weak on high and sometimes didn't work at all on high).
So, i'm off to find a washer pump motor
I started out checking the grounds from the schematic... those looked good.
I checked to make sure my switch worked correctly - it did.
Then i started tracing continuity from the switch to the fuse box (the switch basically passes ground on several different wires to the big relay in the fusebox).
Easy way to do this was the schematic has the relay pin labeled on it, and of course they're labeled on the bottom of the relay as well... translate that to the pinout on the fusebox and it all makes sense...
High speed checked out OK of course, and then i went to test the low speed, and looked at the hole in the fusebox and realized there was no metal on the "inside"... oops. Turns out the connector on the backside had pushed out of the plastic slot and wasn't making good connection.
I opened up the fusebox (three screws, top left, bottom, and bottom right under the foglight relay) and shoved everything back in place while re-installing the original wiper relay.
Everything works now... well, aside from the washer PUMP which i've determined is burnt out, and probably what my brother/sister-n-law was smelling inside the cab. Still smells burnt even now.
So, there you have it... check your wiring/connections - pretty easy for it to be one of the causes of only half of the windshield wiper speeds working. (although i also believe my original replacement motor was burnt/burning out as well - it was very weak on high and sometimes didn't work at all on high).
So, i'm off to find a washer pump motor
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Electrical / Wiper motor problems
« on: June 29, 2011, 11:23:52 AM »
Man theres easier ways to skin a cat...
I'll just re-run a new loom just for the wipers and completely bypass the old loom if i have to before i yank the entire wiring harness! This old car is a long way from being stock or purist anymore, and swapping a wiring harness sounds like work! I'm allergic to work! lol.
Back in the day when i did my window switch conversion (i think i was one of the first - nobody had any info on doing it at the time and nobody i knew on the forums had ever done it) i took the time to bust apart an old set of stock switches to use a plugs to splice into a short part of an e36 wiring harness to make a conversion pigtail so i didn't have to cut my car's wiring harness... fast forward 10 years... one pigtail broke (i think). Pretty sure the e36 harness is just gonna get spliced straight into the e30 harness this time Snip Snip.
I'll just re-run a new loom just for the wipers and completely bypass the old loom if i have to before i yank the entire wiring harness! This old car is a long way from being stock or purist anymore, and swapping a wiring harness sounds like work! I'm allergic to work! lol.
Back in the day when i did my window switch conversion (i think i was one of the first - nobody had any info on doing it at the time and nobody i knew on the forums had ever done it) i took the time to bust apart an old set of stock switches to use a plugs to splice into a short part of an e36 wiring harness to make a conversion pigtail so i didn't have to cut my car's wiring harness... fast forward 10 years... one pigtail broke (i think). Pretty sure the e36 harness is just gonna get spliced straight into the e30 harness this time
Snip Snip.
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Electrical / Wiper motor problems
« on: June 28, 2011, 10:34:06 PM »
the good part is, years ago i fitted another wheel (3-spoke) off another BMW and had to make some spacers... which leaves me room to take the bolts out of the column plastic w/o removing the wheel (barely!).
bad news is i installed the "new" stalk and relay, and theres NO change.
time to go stare at the wiring diagram a little more and see where the problem might be.
For sure ground is working because it completes the "High speed" circuit. That just leaves the hots. If i weren't so lazy i would have checked that first....
The car has been over at the brothers house who kindly stored it (instead of his newer nicer cars) in his garage... of course for some time my sister-n-law drove it when her car was T-boned (with 3 kids in it!) in a hit and run... During this time they claimed to experience a BURNING smell from the dash (oh noes!) and thought it was the radio, so they turned off the radio. This was around the same time the washer pump started running nonstop....
When i picked the car up last weekend, i punched the code in the radio (from memory after 2 years!) and the antenna popped up as usual, and the radio has worked fine ever since.... I'm thinking the burning smell might be related to the wiper circuit now. Hummmm.
I hate tracing electrical problems.
bad news is i installed the "new" stalk and relay, and theres NO change.
time to go stare at the wiring diagram a little more and see where the problem might be.
For sure ground is working because it completes the "High speed" circuit. That just leaves the hots. If i weren't so lazy i would have checked that first....
The car has been over at the brothers house who kindly stored it (instead of his newer nicer cars) in his garage... of course for some time my sister-n-law drove it when her car was T-boned (with 3 kids in it!) in a hit and run... During this time they claimed to experience a BURNING smell from the dash (oh noes!) and thought it was the radio, so they turned off the radio. This was around the same time the washer pump started running nonstop....
When i picked the car up last weekend, i punched the code in the radio (from memory after 2 years!) and the antenna popped up as usual, and the radio has worked fine ever since.... I'm thinking the burning smell might be related to the wiper circuit now. Hummmm.
I hate tracing electrical problems.
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Electrical / COP Brackets: Your Preferences?
« on: June 27, 2011, 09:15:05 PM »
does anyone still make the brackets and sell them?
I've seen references for YEARS about opening up the throttle body, but never any details on it... Boring the TB out wouldn't be too hard, but i'm not sure what to do about the oval shaped flap... I don't have access to a CNC.
I've seen references for YEARS about opening up the throttle body, but never any details on it... Boring the TB out wouldn't be too hard, but i'm not sure what to do about the oval shaped flap... I don't have access to a CNC.
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