Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Re: Coolant leak near plastic pipe troubleshooting - thoughts?

« on: January 26, 2014, 05:36:32 PM »

Conveniently, you can look up past orders on Pelican Parts....the pipe is the OEM version.

This piece of junk, though (11-15-1-739-266-M253 combo breather hose), was APA brand, and it broke apart after a month, and had to be replaced with OEM.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Coolant leak near plastic pipe troubleshooting - thoughts?

« on: January 26, 2014, 11:59:18 AM »

Thank you for the feedback.

The plastic pipe is new in the last two years, and the o-ring is brand new...yet that seems to be the point of failure, in that the pipe seems to be separating from the block by about a millimeter.

I do have an extra radiator cap - I think I need to make a pressure tester, like you're suggesting. See if if holds pressure, and maybe spray some soapy water around the connections.

Thanks!

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Engine + Driveline / Coolant leak near plastic pipe troubleshooting - thoughts?

« on: January 25, 2014, 09:16:38 AM »

Hi everyone. I'm hoping someone might give me some insight on this problem I'm having:

I seem to have a coolant leak where the plastic return pipe comes out of the block. Coolant pools in the small concave area right under the pipe. I have replaced the O ring, but the pipe seems to be separating from the block and weeping coolant, as if there is a lot of pressure pushing it out.

Coolant temp never gets to the exact middle of the gauge; it always sits one click below, or just a bit above that. I'm running 50-50 mix of dealer blue coolant.

I noticed yesterday, after running errands, that the coolant hose going into the radiator was hot (normal), but that the throttle body heater plates (vertical and horizontal) were cool, and the metal "u-turn" connector that connects the two combo coolant/pcv (?) hoses under the intake was also cool.

It seems to me that the throttle plates and the "mess under the intake" metal pipes should be full of hot coolant, right?

Since they are cool, and the radiator hose is its normal hot temperature might there be a blockage? Could this cause pressure to build up in the plastic pipe, making it separate from the block (we're only talking one millimeter, but noticeable that it isn't perfectly flush), and therefore leak?

It'll drop about three inches in the coolant overflow tank about every two weeks, and there is always coolant pooled in the area under the pipe.

Best regards,

Tim

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Engine + Driveline / Fuel consumption update

« on: August 14, 2012, 10:57:42 AM »

With new O2 sensor, 15w-50 Mobil 1 synth, and BP 91 I averaged 30.5 mpg highway this weekend. Have been getting 25.5 around town.

Just fitted COP last night, and car is really responsive. Going back to Pentosynth 5w-40 or Mobile 1 0w-40 now that the pan leaks are pretty much fixed.

Injectors highly recommended.

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Engine management / Oxygen sensor replacement

« on: July 25, 2012, 02:50:35 PM »

I just did this with butt connectors, but I think I'm going to go back and re-do it with solder connections. I think the butt connectors might add too much resistance for what the sensor is spec'd for.

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Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: May 15, 2012, 12:00:27 PM »

Fuel consumption update...

I've had the BOSCH 0280150556 Multi-Port Injectors in for about 1,200 miles now, and am averaging 24.5 mpg.

I think flooring it into open loop just wastes gas. But it really does rip in 2nd and 3rd, so...fun happens.

I have a new O2 sensor to install. Maybe that will take the consumption down a little.

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Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: April 02, 2012, 12:41:24 PM »

Warsteiner - thanks for the clarification.

I installed the 150-556 (http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/item/4494564/4532416.htm) injectors yesterday.

Tip for the stupid --> don't reassemble everything without incrementally testing, or you will have about 1.5 hours worth of work disassembling, correcting, and reassembling your %^*(&^ upper intake.

After seeing fuel leaking from the top of two of the injectors, I took it all back apart, and re-seated the injectors in the rail. Before installing, I blew into the fuel rail with the exit pipe blocked to see if they seemed sealed. The clips and the electrical connections will help you make sure that they are vertical and seated correctly. Before putting the intake back on, I reconnected the battery, and turned the key (which I think starts the pump and fills the rail) - no leaks. Then I put the upper intake and throttle body on, and started the car - no leaks. Then I put the rest back together.

I drove it for about an hour last night, and to work this morning. It feels like it's ripping in 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd feel the same. Maybe more power in 4th. But you know...butt dyno/internet wishing is so unreliable. Who knows what AFRs are, etc. It really needs dyno analysis to tell what's going on. I honestly think it felt faster with stock injectors and a massive vacuum leak. I'll post and update after a few hundred miles, with some fuel consumption data.

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Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: March 29, 2012, 04:28:20 PM »

@Warsteiner: What does this mean?

"Why don't we ask Barrie from Midnight Tuning what he thinks?
And running the 24#'s as well without changing the tune on a STOCK motor!"

TIA

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Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: March 27, 2012, 01:43:00 PM »

Since no one else I could find was running the 24#ers without forced induction or ITBs, I chickened out and changed my order. I got these instead:
http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/item/4494564/4532416.htm

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Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: March 27, 2012, 11:10:26 AM »

After reading this thread at length, I decided to buy the Bosch 0280156013 from http://www.fiveomotorsport.com.

Why?
1. They have the slots for the retaining clips
2. They are high impedance (14 ohm)
3. They flow 250cc at 3 bar (about 20% increase over stock 210(ish?)cc)
4. They are new
5. I have a 93 octane Mark D chip (7300 rev limiter)
6. I have a stock airbox with K&N filter, and a larger hose to behind the headlight
7. The ECU/DME and the O2 sensor should compensate for the increased flow, and manage AFRs.

I chose them over these:
http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/item/4494564/4532416.htm

I'll try to report back in a month or so on their effectiveness.

11

General Topics / Question for the smart guys...

« on: February 23, 2012, 01:22:37 PM »

Thanks for the suggestions, guys!

12

General Topics / Question for the smart guys...

« on: February 21, 2012, 07:38:24 PM »

deansweet - Yes, totally possible. This is my first winter with the car, so I don't have a baseline. I was averaging 25mpg this summer, but seem to be around 22 lately.

But at the same time, I feel like I can detect some changes in the car when I flip the lights on. Idle a little higher, maybe. I have a brand new Interstate battery, and the H1/H4s are just regular wattage.

Does anyone ever relay their H1/H4s? I'll search for that.

Thanks for the replies!

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General Topics / Question for the smart guys...

« on: February 21, 2012, 12:03:39 PM »

I have an e30 m42 318i.

I swapped in H4/H1 Hella headlights.

I swear that when I have the lights on, I'm getting less gas mileage. Like, the difference between 22mpg and 25mpg in mixed and spirited driving.

Is that possible/probable? Why?

TIA...

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General Topics / An Object Lesson in Self (auto) Diagnosis

« on: January 12, 2012, 05:14:06 PM »

When I bought my 1991 318i in May, it was a nice clean example, California car until 2006, no rust. There was just one strange noise on the test drive - something that sounded like a rotational metallic interference, or a rattle against the header. At least something from down in that area.

I bought the car anyway, thinking that it definitely needed a clutch, and the noise was probably something in the bell housing.

I replaced the clutch with my dad. If you've done this yourself, you know how involved it is.

Noise was still there.

I then thought that it has GOT to be the chain rattling. I have the extensive service history, and there is no mention of a timing chain in the last 100,000 miles. So, I had the chain, tensioner, guides, crank gear, water pump, and thermostat done.

Noise was still there.

I changed out all the crap under the intake.

Noise was still there.

Maybe it's engine knock? Seafoam, techtron, valve cleaner, three different kinds of plugs.

Noise still there.

Finally, I took it to the giant local BMW dealer. The tech could not hear any ping.

I pulled on the throttle and got it up to about 2,000 rpm, where I'd been hearing the noise. HE REACHED DOWN NEXT TO THE VALVE COVER AND BENT THE HEAT SHEILD PROTECTING THE PLUG WIRES AND THE NOISE WENT AWAY.

The heat shield was rattling in a way that resonated through the valve cover in a way that sounded like "pennies in a jar," or the telltale sound of engine knock. It only rattled at part throttle around 2,000rpm and vaugely at 3,400rpm.

EVERYTHING ELSE WAS A RED HERRING.

I mean, I'm glad that I did all this maintenance, and had LOTS of quality time with my dad....but still...

...don't let this be YOU!

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Engine + Driveline / e30 m42 header noise - pinging

« on: January 10, 2012, 12:28:49 PM »

and now the pinging is back.