Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Ahhhh crap, more piston ring problems

« on: November 26, 2007, 02:20:20 PM »

I don't know about that, it was the threads of the spark plugs that was coated in oil, not the top or the spark plug wire. And the grounding straps looked nicely oil fouled.

2

Engine + Driveline / Ahhhh crap, more piston ring problems

« on: November 25, 2007, 11:00:55 AM »

Well I needed to change my spark plugs and wires. I last checked the plugs about 5000 miles ago, everything was perfect. Not a drop of oil.

Today, different story. Plugs 2 and 3 where covered in oil and 4 had oil on it.

Engine still runs good. Guess it's time for new rings, even though this engine only has roughly 8000 miles on it.

3

Suspension / Suspension Techniques Front Sway Bar Install ??

« on: November 21, 2007, 07:44:44 PM »

Here is the stock mount area.


Here is the new mount on the stock area. What am I missing here, besides the instructions which nobody happens to have.

4

Suspension / Suspension Techniques Front Sway Bar Install ??

« on: November 20, 2007, 11:11:50 PM »

I am wondering how do I install the front suspension techniques sway bar? There is that tab on the front sub frame and the suspension techniques sway bar has that flat bracket.

Should I cut out the tab on the sub frame?

What about the bolt holes? There are two bolt holes and only one bolt hole on the sub frame. So where on the bottom of that sub frame do I bolt all that too?

5

Engine + Driveline / O2 sensor

« on: November 13, 2007, 06:04:28 PM »

I'd also replace the O2 relay. It's only $5 and is really easy to replace. You may also want to replace the main and the fuel pump relay while you are at it. Fuel pump is the same type as O2.

NOTE: The Main relay is a specific relay that is NOT interchangable with other relay types. It runs about $15-20.

6

Engine + Driveline / Crankshaft bolt. How to open?

« on: October 29, 2007, 02:37:35 PM »

Since the engine is out of the car,
Get a 3/8" or 1/2" socket wrench that has a rubberized handle. Then use a good sized hammer (I use a 3 lb drilling hammer) and hammer away. Be sure you stand horizontally from it and check to be sure it is still firmly on the nut each time you strike.

It's like an impact tool but you "can" give it more ft. lbs of impact.

Additionally, IF YOU NEED TO, you can try adding a piece of wood where the crank shaft is. Use it long ways and make sure it is in and pressing againest the lower 1-2" of the cylinder wall. Make sure you check your cylinder wall afterwards for any damange.

You can also try using the freeze off stuff and/or WD-40.

7

General Topics / Carpet is out, moving on

« on: September 27, 2007, 01:17:49 PM »

What "A" pillar gauge pod is that?

8

Engine + Driveline / engine has flat spots

« on: September 27, 2007, 01:15:48 PM »

91 318's with the M42 engine don't have knock sensors.

If you took your intake manifold apart, then the problems arose, i'd get you have vacuum leaks.

9

Engine + Driveline / Stock rear diff strength?

« on: September 26, 2007, 11:30:05 PM »

Use a diff from a E39 M5. It'll hold 400 ft lbs of torque easy.

10

Engine + Driveline / rebuild

« on: September 25, 2007, 04:50:05 PM »

You can't install the cam before you install the head. You won't be able to torque the head down.

After you install the head, install the cam guide with lifters. Then put the cams in. Refer to the other post for direction.

11

Engine + Driveline / Vacuum Lines

« on: September 25, 2007, 04:45:05 PM »

There are alot of lines under there.

The vacumm line beneath the intake manifold (directly connected to the TB) comes from the valve cover 5/8" (VC) to 1/2" (TB). Unless you are talking about the coolant lines or the line that goes from the intake boot to the ICV.

12

Engine + Driveline / engine rebuild

« on: September 25, 2007, 04:40:54 PM »

E is Intake and A is Exhaust. On the rear of the cams are dimples. They should face up on install and the lobs at the front of the cams should face each other.

Right side is intake and left side is exhaust, when looking back from the crank pulley side.

13

Engine + Driveline / Oil consumption tracker

« on: September 05, 2007, 12:04:49 PM »

Production Date: 05/1990
Mileage: 223764
Oil consumption per 1000 miles/1609 km: 1 qt
Oil Weight: Lubromoly 10w/40 Semi Syn mos2 anti-friction
Last Oil change Date/Mileage: 8/1/2007; 221700
Mods like I/H/E/CC/MC: Shaved head; used thicker head gasket to compensate; also have .50mm over pistons; rebuild done 3000 miles ago

14

Engine + Driveline / Oil consumption tracker

« on: September 05, 2007, 12:02:01 PM »

So I want to try to put together a baseline for oil consumption for our cars/engine. This will only apply to those who are still m42 and not under boost. Sorry but N/A only. Also no cams, stroker kits or major head work (no porting & polishing; shaved head okay as long as a thicker head gasket was installed).

So if everyone would be so kind as to list:

Production Date:
Mileage:
Oil consumption per 1000 miles/1609 km:
Oil Weight:
Last Oil change Date/Mileage:
Mods like I/H/E/CC/MC:

I = Intake
H = Header
E = Exhaust
CC = Catch Can
MC = Modified Chip

15

Engine + Driveline / idle air hose Q (operating in the dark)

« on: August 29, 2007, 10:50:00 AM »

There is a link under resources for the E36 bentley via download.

You can also check http://www.realoem.com for a temp schematic.