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Messages - kimmerkaze

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1
For Sale / Re: [Toronto, CA] M42 Full Part Out (Shipping Anywhere)
« on: March 30, 2017, 10:06:37 PM »
FYI - Engine fully disassembled now. Everything from pistons/rods, crank, etc all individually available. Lmk what you need and I can send specific pics/info.

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For Sale / Re: [Toronto, CA] M42 Full Part Out (Shipping Anywhere)
« on: March 30, 2017, 09:53:31 PM »
Sorry about that. Don't check here too often.

The 240 was good except 2nd gear synchro is a bit crunched so it grinds on downshifts. So I had to double clutch on downshifts and I was short shifting a bit on upshifts. Where's your location?

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For Sale / [Toronto, CA] M42 Full Part Out (Shipping Anywhere)
« on: February 23, 2017, 09:45:21 PM »
Located in Canada near Toronto, ON.

Prices are in CAD and don't include shipping (I can ship to US if you want at your expense).

Swapping motors so fully parting out original M42 and drivetrain from 318is.

180xxx km total on engine & trans - some parts are < 15k so pm what you need.

All parts available but I do plan to just keep the bare block itself. Fully torn down now so let me know what you need.

Usual G240 trans - make an offer.

All accessories (except AC) working well at time of removal. Msg what you need and I'll get back to you.


Some parts with a price:

1) Ebay 4-1 header w/DEI wrap (no output flange) - $100

2) Hi flow cat w/Vibrant bottle resonator (no input flange) - $100

3) Axle back w/Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler (WLK-17731) - 2.25" - $50

4) HQ Autosport M42 Coil On Plug Kit Option 2 (only about 25k on them) - $150obo
http://www.hqautosport.com/products1.html

5) 19# type 3 Mustang injector set (only about 25k on them) - $40

6) Z3 shifter assembly (approx 15k on it) - $100

*Others, check out pics and make an offer. PM is best.

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For Sale / parting out m42 engine
« on: September 14, 2012, 09:52:41 PM »
how's the condition of your icv and your idle for this engine?

5
I also have similar symptoms but not as bad as OP. Would be great to hear what OP finds out!

I'm waiting for my FPR to arrive. Besides that, I'm trying to get another ICV. Fuel pump also waiting to be installed.

Will check injectors and alternator for now

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Engine + Driveline / Are my pistons / valves bad?
« on: August 01, 2012, 08:23:03 PM »
PS: I'm no expert but this is what I would do if I were you before taking it to a shop.

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Engine + Driveline / Are my pistons / valves bad?
« on: August 01, 2012, 08:22:27 PM »
Could also be your rings. Why don't you compare all the cylinder wall conditions? Maybe you'll find your difference there...

Like MLM mentioned you can turn your camshaft, drop a valve down a bit, and measure runout by rotating the valve. If you don't have a dial indicator just use some straight edge against the side of the valve and visually reference any chances in valve edge to straight edge as you rotate. Compare to another known good cylinder.

8
Engine + Driveline / Help Diagnose Temp Gauge Issue
« on: June 24, 2012, 11:07:08 PM »
Ok so quick update to close this thread out. Sorry for the long post(s) but I wanted to follow up in case anyone else has these same issues in the future:

1) Temp gauge creeping past half

- Solved by wiring back aux fan in and bypassing temp switch (new rad has a plug in it) so it triggers high speed
- Plan is to order lower temp rad sensor and wire all that back in. Possibly wire in separate manual toggle for when car's off for track

I used this diagram to help me troubleshoot:



- FYI, took me awhile to get this going because I kept playing around with the 3 connector plug on the RH side of rad. Everytime I jumped temp sensor I could hear K1 & K6 relays trigger.

- I then jumped bk/gr to bk/bn on temp switch to trigger hi speed and then checked continuity on RH fan switch connector but no juice. Didn't make sense to me so I dug around a bit on the LH side under the headlamp and found the same connector! Continuity check and it was getting juice so I guess I just forgot where I removed aux connector from last time.

- Plugged aux fan to LH bodyside connector, put some spade connectors on rad temp switch bk/gn to bk/bn and A/C switch worked fine. Fairly ghetto but for now it'll do just to get by for the next few weeks.


2) Rough idle

- Drained fuel last night and refilled. Hesitation is gone! Idle is still not perfect but definitely close to being stable. Will follow up with a timing check down the road because I may have been slightly off tightening down cam gears

- I definitely think this was due to me venting fuel tank line by removing charcoal canister early on in winter and leaving things vented for a few months. Even though I had stabilizer in the tank it didn't help. From what I understand system should be sealed during storage.


3) Supercharger like whine noise gone

- All day long Sat whenever engine was running whine noise would change with rpm. Sounded pretty much like a supercharger. Re-confirmed all belt tensions and listening to noise closer sounded like it was coming from timing cover. Dug around online and my best guess was to change out chain tensioner. I ordered a new one but didn't install because old one seemed ok.

- Pulled out old tensioner and it seemed to be extended all the way. Maybe it was getting stuck and the chain was rubbing hardcore on the RH guide that tensioner pushes up against? Not sure.

- Popped in new one (pre-compressed) and broke in the new tensioner. My god I'll never forget the sound that the chain made. Can't describe it but it was enough to stall my engine and even cranking after, the engine didn't want to run. I gave it some gas next start and kept revs around 3500 like one procedure said. After about 5-10 seconds you could hear the chain noise subside in intervals and then after about 10 seconds engine started purring.



So all in all pretty efficient weekend.

9
Engine + Driveline / Help Diagnose Temp Gauge Issue
« on: June 23, 2012, 09:06:17 PM »
*Update*

Drove the car around today. Noticed a few things:

1) Temp gauge needle begins to creep slightly over half point (like needle just moves past 1/2 mark) after I come off of highway and begin to city cruise

- I think I need to put back in my aux fan for A/C. I removed A/C condenser and aux fan last year but ever since I've had it out temp creeps a bit on very hot days in stop and go traffic

2) Still having a rough idle - sometimes random stalls when I come to a stop or clutch in

- I'm lost here. My only thinking is maybe the gas is no longer good. Full tank has been sitting with stabilizer from Oct '11 until now (~8 months). I think it would normally be ok if system was sealed but I removed vent line off of tank from canister so maybe fuel could've degraded faster? Not sure but if someone could help out here that'd be great

- ICV cleaned again seems no issues
- AFM very clean no sticking. Same with TB
- No O2 sensor code

- Only other thing I can think of is maybe my timing is off but I did mark everything pretty thoroughly / accurately when doing HG.


Anyway, will try to temporarily come up with something to hold aux fan back in w/o condenser and siphon out gas tonight too and replace.

10
Engine + Driveline / Help Diagnose Temp Gauge Issue
« on: June 23, 2012, 02:36:08 PM »
*Update*

Oil light gone, temp gauge now works

Cause: Switched around black 1 contact connectors.

Key point: The Y-split in wiring has 1 grey and 1 black connector. Grey goes to front coolant temp sensor for DME and black goes to oil filter housing

The one lone black connector goes to rear coolant temp sensor for temp gauge


*Idle is still a tad rough especially during cold. Changed fuel filter too. Going to ride it out for now and see what happens when I fill up next tank with gas that isn't 8 months old lol

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Engine + Driveline / Help Diagnose Temp Gauge Issue
« on: June 23, 2012, 11:59:19 AM »
And yeah gauge temp sensor is a PITA. I think it's almost impossible if you keep the regular mess under intake but it's still doable once you delete all that stuff.

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Engine + Driveline / Help Diagnose Temp Gauge Issue
« on: June 23, 2012, 11:57:31 AM »
Thanks Dave.

Yeah so out of the 3 plugs, 2 are single contact and 1 is double. The double I got right, which is the coolant temp sender to DME (front location on cyl head). I actually ended up switching the single contacts (both are also black connector) the oil filter and temp gauge connectors so now lights gone but I want to go through bleed procedure once more to ensure everything's good with cooling.

I should've known better though I now recall I made a mental note of the wiring orientation when I pulled them. The oil filter and front DME temp sensor wiring branch out from same wire whereas the temp gauge connector is independent. For some reason the slack in wiring made more sense to switch oil filter and temp gauge connectors and they were both single contacts so that's where I made my mistake during re-assy.

I looked around a lot for bypass feedback from people and generally it seems like if you keep up your cooling system maintenance I doubt there will be an issue. Plus it's only the US cars that got that (how typical...haha).

As for charcoal canister situation, I'm kind of confused by your explanation but I think I should clarify/confirm. I plugged the throttle body port only. For the tank line that comes up against firewall and into charcoal canister I actually extended that line and looped it into my FR LH wheel well for venting so it's not plugged.

The canister I had is super super crusty and I'm sure it's doing nothing. As for emissions, I have a way of going around that up here :)

Plus, I've held onto the clamp for the canister because for a small project I'd like to fab up a catch can similar size to charcoal and put it down there where charcoal can used to be and route PCV through there. What do you think?

13
Engine + Driveline / Help Diagnose Temp Gauge Issue
« on: June 23, 2012, 12:31:31 AM »
Ok found 1 very possible lead that I will confirm tomorrow morning (too loud to start car right now haha):

*Rear temp sensor (sending to gauge) may be switched with oil filter housing sensor*

This makes sense since my gauge isn't working and my oil light is on.

Hopefully this fixes that issue and only thing left is some idle issues, which I'm hoping fuel filter will take care of.

14
Engine + Driveline / Help Diagnose Temp Gauge Issue
« on: June 22, 2012, 11:52:02 PM »
Hey so...just finished doing the following:

- HG replacement
- Mess under intake cleanup (ran a bypass hose from head to tube instead of plugs)
- Ran PCV direct from VC to intake boot
- Ran ICV direct from VC to intake boot
- Deleted that thermoswitch valve along heater core inlet line (from head to heater core)
- Deleted charcoal canister (plugged TB port, vented line from tank)
- Replaced a bunch of other gaskets (oil pans, intake, exhaust, etc etc)


- Verified both coolant temp sensor and temp sender connectors hooked up correctly


Symptoms:

- Rough idle - a bit of stutter but it's fairly inconsistent
- Temp gauge does not move off of cold when car's running
- When IG is ON, but engine not running, temp gauge needle goes all the way max hot and stays there
- Did stomp test and only got 1263, purve valve, which is probably because I removed valve as part of charcoal canister delete
- Bleed I think is ok now - have hot air coming through cabin and lower rad hose gets warm

Possible Causes:

- I do need to replace fuel filter (car's been also sitting for 7-8 months now) so I'm hoping this is what's causing rough idle - btw injectors are 'new' bought the 4 pintle ones

- Temp sensors - coolant sensor and temp sender both don't seem to be working properly? I did replace both of these with brand new ones... Will try to check continuity tomorrow



That's all I've got right now. Really need to get this thing back on the road tomorrow or I'm SOL for work Monday.

Any help is much appreciated. I'm still searching online too and have found a couple of threads where people have same temp gauge symptoms but no true fix reported from what I can see.

Thanks in advance

15
WTB/WTT / WTB: M42 Oil Filter Housing Bolt
« on: June 11, 2012, 12:47:52 PM »
Hi I was wondering if someone has an m42 bolt they can sell me, the long one you take out whenever you change out the filter.

Shipping would be to Canada. PM if you have. Thanks in advance.

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