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Electrical / Fuse #20 issues
« on: August 31, 2012, 01:29:00 AM »
When I was having aux fan issues it blew fuse 20 and 19 so I think you may have found your issue.
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Electrical / Aux fan working with temp switch but not AC
« on: July 01, 2012, 11:46:47 PM »
It's definitely weird to have a short between two wires instead of just something grounded out against the body or something. I was surprised, this car has been taken care of well and the parts of the wiring harness I could see all looked in perfect shape. A couple days earlier I had left it parked outside in the most torrential rain storm I have ever seen and maybe that did it.
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Electrical / Aux fan working with temp switch but not AC
« on: June 30, 2012, 08:41:11 PM »
Solved!
High and low speed temp switch wires were shorted together somewhere. Pulling them around trying to find an obvious short took care of it for now so I'll wait and see if it happens again before I go cutting open that whole section of harness. After that was back to normal I soldered in the second radio shack diode (nice that they come as a two pack) and now low speed is coming on with the ac switch like it's supposed to. Here's a link to the diode I ended up using: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes Part # 1N4001 If it fails in the future I'll update here but I think it should be fine.
High and low speed temp switch wires were shorted together somewhere. Pulling them around trying to find an obvious short took care of it for now so I'll wait and see if it happens again before I go cutting open that whole section of harness. After that was back to normal I soldered in the second radio shack diode (nice that they come as a two pack) and now low speed is coming on with the ac switch like it's supposed to. Here's a link to the diode I ended up using: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes Part # 1N4001 If it fails in the future I'll update here but I think it should be fine.
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Electrical / Aux fan working with temp switch but not AC
« on: June 30, 2012, 05:49:32 PM »
Alright, this problem just got a hell of a lot more confusing. I have my fuse box open at this point with the diode removed and some electrical tape over the ends of the leads for it so I can drive the car around. Picked up a couple 1 amp diodes from radio shack. Got back, checked fuse 19 and it's blown again. I replace it, turn the car to on (with the engine off) and start testing around to see what is blowing it. Jumped the temp switch to high and low, messed with my electric mirrors, ran the blower, turned the ac on and off. No problems, everything works fine (except for the aux fan coming on with the ac obviously because I still have no diode installed).
I still have the temp switch jumped so the aux fan is running, I start the engine and it immediately blows the fuse. WTF? I have been studying the ETM for a couple hours now and I can not see how having the car running would blow the fuse but with just the ignition on it is fine.
Anyway, on to part 2 of my confusion:
Even though it makes no sense I decide to see if having the diode disconnected could be causing this problem so I moved on to that issue.
Hooked one up with test leads first before I bothered soldering it in properly. Turned car to on with engine off) hit the ac button and the diode immediately went up in smoke. I double checked that I had hooked it up the correct direction and it was. Next step I tried was leaving the ac button on and jumping together the leads for the diode. The fan did not come on like it should have and the test lead started getting warm like there was a short so I unhooked it right away. The aux fan temp switch was unplugged at the time so no complications there.
I'm assuming these 2 problems are related but I can't figure out how.
One more test: With the high speed relay pulled the aux fan comes on at low setting with either side of the temp switch jumped and with the low speed relay pulled it will run at high speed with either of the positions jumped. Something is not right here.
I still have the temp switch jumped so the aux fan is running, I start the engine and it immediately blows the fuse. WTF? I have been studying the ETM for a couple hours now and I can not see how having the car running would blow the fuse but with just the ignition on it is fine.
Anyway, on to part 2 of my confusion:
Even though it makes no sense I decide to see if having the diode disconnected could be causing this problem so I moved on to that issue.
Hooked one up with test leads first before I bothered soldering it in properly. Turned car to on with engine off) hit the ac button and the diode immediately went up in smoke. I double checked that I had hooked it up the correct direction and it was. Next step I tried was leaving the ac button on and jumping together the leads for the diode. The fan did not come on like it should have and the test lead started getting warm like there was a short so I unhooked it right away. The aux fan temp switch was unplugged at the time so no complications there.
I'm assuming these 2 problems are related but I can't figure out how.
One more test: With the high speed relay pulled the aux fan comes on at low setting with either side of the temp switch jumped and with the low speed relay pulled it will run at high speed with either of the positions jumped. Something is not right here.
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Electrical / Aux fan working with temp switch but not AC
« on: June 29, 2012, 08:26:36 PM »
Real cheap local option occurred to me:
http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032269&allCount=449&fbc=1&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FDiodes&fbn=Type%2FDiodes&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes
I have a soldering iron. Only problem is that my diode is mostly in little pieces so I don't know what it was rated at or if a 1 amp or 3 amp would cover it. Can't find this thing shown on any of my Bentley wiring diagrams either. Do you know what kind of load is on this thing?
http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032269&allCount=449&fbc=1&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FDiodes&fbn=Type%2FDiodes&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes
I have a soldering iron. Only problem is that my diode is mostly in little pieces so I don't know what it was rated at or if a 1 amp or 3 amp would cover it. Can't find this thing shown on any of my Bentley wiring diagrams either. Do you know what kind of load is on this thing?
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Electrical / Aux fan working with temp switch but not AC
« on: June 29, 2012, 08:03:59 PM »
Yep, the diode tested bad. Pried open the case just for fun and sure enough, it was melted in half. Thanks guys. Monty23psk, sent you a pm.
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Electrical / Aux fan working with temp switch but not AC
« on: June 28, 2012, 05:20:01 PM »
Found a new diode on Amazon for about $18 http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-Auxiliary-select-models/dp/B001G7MB2Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1340919999&sr=8-2&keywords=bmw+diode
$18 seems spendy for a little diode but reasonable enough that I was just going to go ahead and get it, BUT...... My aux fan cycled on and off successfully a few times yesterday while driving in the heat but then ended up blowing my 7.5 amp fuse 19 again (30 amp #20 survived this time, AC was off the whole time, blower was on 2) Replaced it with the spare 10amp I had and it has behaved since but now I don't trust it. I guess my question is, could a bad diode blow that fuse or should I be looking for something else? I would also be bummed if I killed a new $18 diode. Is there an easy way to test the diode with my multimeter?
ps, When I jump my temp switch my fan sounds like it is running at the same speed on both settings, maybe a symptom of something? Or maybe just the way the aftermarket fan works with a stock resistor, can't remember if I ever really checked it when I first installed it.
$18 seems spendy for a little diode but reasonable enough that I was just going to go ahead and get it, BUT...... My aux fan cycled on and off successfully a few times yesterday while driving in the heat but then ended up blowing my 7.5 amp fuse 19 again (30 amp #20 survived this time, AC was off the whole time, blower was on 2) Replaced it with the spare 10amp I had and it has behaved since but now I don't trust it. I guess my question is, could a bad diode blow that fuse or should I be looking for something else? I would also be bummed if I killed a new $18 diode. Is there an easy way to test the diode with my multimeter?
ps, When I jump my temp switch my fan sounds like it is running at the same speed on both settings, maybe a symptom of something? Or maybe just the way the aftermarket fan works with a stock resistor, can't remember if I ever really checked it when I first installed it.
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Electrical / Aux fan working with temp switch but not AC
« on: June 27, 2012, 03:29:30 PM »
Stuck in some traffic yesterday I noticed my temp rising so I pulled over and found the aux fan not running and fuse 19 and 20 blown. I have a large spal fan installed in place of the stock aux fan and I'm not running an engine fan. Long story short, after messing with the position of my low speed resistor which looked like it might be shorting out, and after burning through a few more fuses, the fan now works in both high and low speed if I jump it at the temp sensor plug but it will not come on anymore with the AC. At this point I'm pretty sure the resistor shorting out against the body of the car caused the fuses to blow but I think it must have taken out something else at the same time. Can anyone help me track down what that might be?
Edit: Did some more searching that I should have done before posting and I now suspect the aux fan diode has gone bad.
Edit: Did some more searching that I should have done before posting and I now suspect the aux fan diode has gone bad.
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Engine + Driveline / Idea: Stock-Looking ITBs
« on: June 18, 2012, 04:50:54 PM »
I am all about flat slide carbs, just never thought about using flat slides for ITBs before until I saw this thread. I think the combination of high vacuum at closed throttle pulling on the slides and the necessity for tight tolerances to prevent air leaks could cause issues for even a really stiff return spring if the slides are not on some kind of roller bearing. Here's a diagram of a Keihin FCR carburetor (part #20 is a roller bearing):
Now that I'm looking at this, if cost and "stock look" weren't an issue a rack of these could be modified and used just as throttle bodies.
Now that I'm looking at this, if cost and "stock look" weren't an issue a rack of these could be modified and used just as throttle bodies.
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For Sale / Set Of Rebuilt 4 Pintle Fuel Injectors - $50 shipped
« on: June 15, 2012, 07:27:31 PM »
4x Part Number # 0280155700
I bought these as a set of 8 a year ago and obviously only needed 4 of them. I know there has been a lot of discussion about Mustang injectors so I will leave it up to you to do your own research. That being said, I have been running the other 4 of this same set in my m42 for a year now with no problems and they fit with out any modification. I did see an increase in mileage and "smoothness" after install but I also redid my whole intake system at the same time so that could easily have been where the improvement came from as well.
$50 is half of what I paid for the whole set and I'll cover the shipping in the US.
I bought these as a set of 8 a year ago and obviously only needed 4 of them. I know there has been a lot of discussion about Mustang injectors so I will leave it up to you to do your own research. That being said, I have been running the other 4 of this same set in my m42 for a year now with no problems and they fit with out any modification. I did see an increase in mileage and "smoothness" after install but I also redid my whole intake system at the same time so that could easily have been where the improvement came from as well.
$50 is half of what I paid for the whole set and I'll cover the shipping in the US.
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General Topics / A different kind of idle problem
« on: April 26, 2012, 11:46:42 AM »
Thanks, I checked that a while ago when I replaced my blower motor. This problem never happens once the engine is warm.
This car has only had 2 owners previous to me who kept all of their receipts for service, almost entirely done by the dealer including oil changes. The kind of people who might not even know where the hood latch is if you know what I mean. I have yet to find a single thing weird or "messed with" on this car, unlike every other car I have ever owned.
This car has only had 2 owners previous to me who kept all of their receipts for service, almost entirely done by the dealer including oil changes. The kind of people who might not even know where the hood latch is if you know what I mean. I have yet to find a single thing weird or "messed with" on this car, unlike every other car I have ever owned.
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General Topics / A different kind of idle problem
« on: April 25, 2012, 08:49:42 PM »
Anyone want to throw me a bone here? Is this the correct resistance reading for the TPS?
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General Topics / A different kind of idle problem
« on: April 20, 2012, 06:36:14 PM »
Yeah I'm talking about that third test for the potentiometer. Leaving town got delayed so I went and picked up a new TPS. The new one measures 1200 ohms with the throttle fully closed then runs smoothly up to 2900 ohms about 20 degrees before WOT. At that point it goes to an open circuit through the rest of the range. Per the method given in the manual that means it is bad. However these are almost the exact same results I got from the old TPS so I am starting to think that this is normal. Now I need to know if I should try a third one or if these are both fine?
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General Topics / A different kind of idle problem
« on: April 20, 2012, 03:06:24 PM »
I've done some more reading and it sounds like my TPS having an open circuit for the last few degrees of travel means it is broken. Could someone please confirm for me that at WOT it should still show resistance up around 4k ohms?
Driving up to Seattle in a couple hours to watch supercross tomorrow so I'm not going to be messing with it until I get back.
Driving up to Seattle in a couple hours to watch supercross tomorrow so I'm not going to be messing with it until I get back.
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General Topics / A different kind of idle problem
« on: April 18, 2012, 05:55:38 PM »
Ok got some numbers:
IAT - It's about 60 degrees out and I'm getting a resistance of 2800 ohms that dropped gradually while I pinched the sensor with my fingers to give it some heat. These values look correct.
While I had the air box open I checked the potentiometer. At fully open it starts around 500 ohms then runs smoothly up to a peak of around 850 ohms at about 20 degrees from closed then drops back down to about 500 ohms fully closed. This seems a little strange to me but the manual doesn't exactly give any solid numbers for this test.
TPS is starting at 1500 ohms closed goes smoothly up to 4000 ohms at about 10 degrees from WOT at which point it jumps straight to infinite through the rest of the range. Manual states 1000-4000 range approximate and also says it is not adjustable but it clearly is since it has slotted holes. Probably different because I am using an e36 manual. Is there a method for adjusting the TPS? It still has the yellow paint on the screws from the factory so I know it hasn't been messed with yet.
IAT - It's about 60 degrees out and I'm getting a resistance of 2800 ohms that dropped gradually while I pinched the sensor with my fingers to give it some heat. These values look correct.
While I had the air box open I checked the potentiometer. At fully open it starts around 500 ohms then runs smoothly up to a peak of around 850 ohms at about 20 degrees from closed then drops back down to about 500 ohms fully closed. This seems a little strange to me but the manual doesn't exactly give any solid numbers for this test.
TPS is starting at 1500 ohms closed goes smoothly up to 4000 ohms at about 10 degrees from WOT at which point it jumps straight to infinite through the rest of the range. Manual states 1000-4000 range approximate and also says it is not adjustable but it clearly is since it has slotted holes. Probably different because I am using an e36 manual. Is there a method for adjusting the TPS? It still has the yellow paint on the screws from the factory so I know it hasn't been messed with yet.
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