1
WTB/WTT / Need A/C Compressor
« on: April 06, 2011, 08:41:29 AM »
Need a working A/C Compressor for a 1991 318i m42b18, shipped to New Orleans, LA 70131. PM me at hnilsen@canalbarge.com
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3
Engine + Driveline / Figured out my problem.
« on: March 28, 2011, 05:22:17 PM »
I figured out my problem. Jumped timing by just one gear tooth, so decided to bite the bullet and pull the head. Found valve indentations on each piston, really heavy on the intake side, less so on the exhaust side. All intake valves are jammed stuck in open position (kind of explains why I was getting zero compression readings from all cylinders).
Now I'm either looking for a good, working replacement head or will have it professionally reconditioned (but I'd rather not part with $1000 bucks).
Also, does anyone think I'm completely insane if I try and avoid replacing the indented pistons and reuse them "as is" (after I grind smooth any high spots that may be present)? The cylinder liners don't have any scoring and look good. I'm thinking about getting a replacement head, bolting it back on, doing a compression check and if all looks OK, going with it like that. I'm only looking to get another 20,000 or 30,000 miles out of it. Am I crazy?
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
Now I'm either looking for a good, working replacement head or will have it professionally reconditioned (but I'd rather not part with $1000 bucks).
Also, does anyone think I'm completely insane if I try and avoid replacing the indented pistons and reuse them "as is" (after I grind smooth any high spots that may be present)? The cylinder liners don't have any scoring and look good. I'm thinking about getting a replacement head, bolting it back on, doing a compression check and if all looks OK, going with it like that. I'm only looking to get another 20,000 or 30,000 miles out of it. Am I crazy?
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
4
WTB/WTT / Need good working cylinder head for m42b18
« on: March 28, 2011, 04:59:57 PM »
I need good working cylinder head for 1991 318i, m42b18. Mine jumped timing by just one tooth and destroyed all intake valves and most exhaust valves. New Orleans, Louisiana. PM me at hnilsen@canalbarge.com
5
For Sale / 91 318ic Black......... Queen Creek, Az
« on: March 27, 2011, 03:04:49 PM »
Is this car still available? Assume pics are not current. Can you provide recent pics showing the flaw-areas? Would you take $1400?
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
6
For Sale / Free block w/ Pistons Good shape Bay Area
« on: March 27, 2011, 02:54:15 PM »
Is this still available? Is it an m42b18? How much to ship to 70131?
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
7
For Sale / m42b18 parts
« on: March 27, 2011, 02:04:03 PM »
I realize this is an old post, but wondering if you still have the a/c compressor and power steering pump? Would you take $25 a peice for them?
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
8
For Sale / M42 engine for parts or to fix
« on: March 27, 2011, 01:55:26 PM »
wenbeaver,
Is this engine still available? For $300? What is shipping to 70131 zip code?
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
Is this engine still available? For $300? What is shipping to 70131 zip code?
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
9
For Sale / M42 Engine
« on: March 27, 2011, 01:42:56 PM »
Supadave,
Would your M42 bolt up with my 1991 318I?
Is there anything wrong with it? Does it run?
Would you take $750 for it if I came and picked it up this week? (I live in New Orleans, but am coming to Houston this week on biz).
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
Would your M42 bolt up with my 1991 318I?
Is there anything wrong with it? Does it run?
Would you take $750 for it if I came and picked it up this week? (I live in New Orleans, but am coming to Houston this week on biz).
hnilsen@canalbarge.com
10
M42 Reference / How do I perform a leakdown test?
« on: March 18, 2011, 09:01:22 AM »
How do I perform a leakdown test? I'm guessing for the intake side, when cranking over the engine I need to make sure that the engine is sucking in air? But how much air? Do I need a vacuum gauge and if so, what should the readings be?
I'm also guessing for the exhaust side, I need to be sure that the engine is pushing out air. How do you recommend this be done? My half-assed guess would be to put a plastic bag over the exhaust and crank over the engine to see if it fills. Is this too amatuerish?
Appreciate anyone's help on this.
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
I'm also guessing for the exhaust side, I need to be sure that the engine is pushing out air. How do you recommend this be done? My half-assed guess would be to put a plastic bag over the exhaust and crank over the engine to see if it fills. Is this too amatuerish?
Appreciate anyone's help on this.
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
11
Engine + Driveline / Engine just died! Help!
« on: March 13, 2011, 08:33:55 AM »
I'm new to this site, so I'm not sure if the below thread was recieved by the M42 community yesterday. Here it is again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm at wit's end with my 1991 BMW 318i M42B18 which probably has about 200,000 miles on it. For about a year there has been a distinct rattling emanating from the upper engine, leading me to guess the problem was maybe valves, hydraulic lifters, maybe a loose timing chain...? The engine, however, seemed to run fine and since the car is so old I didn't do anything about it.
Then 2 weeks ago, I'm driving along at about 40 mph and without any big noise or fanfare, the engine just dies. Upon trying to crank it over, the very first attempt, the engine sputtered just a bit, then every single time thereafter, absolutely nothing. It cranks incessantly but doesnt catch even a little.
Having had a past fuel pump failure give me similar symptoms, I checked this out and the fuel pump is fine. Pulled the plugs and made sure I'm getting good spark...all OK. I site down each of the cylinders and can at least confirm that all pistons are moving up and down.
Thinking maybe I broke the timing chain, I pulled the valve cover. Timing chains look fine. Thinking maybe the timing chain jumped, I checked the timing itself and it looks good too, at least from everything I can tell by studying my Chilton manual. I'm not 100% sure about this, but here's how it looked: I turn over the engine clockwise until the #1 piston is at TDC, at which point the intake and exhaust valves are more or less facing towards each other, and the arrows on the cam shaft sprockets are facing up, and the rear end of the cam shafts where the square end flats are parallel with the valve cover, and the 2 dimples are up. Does this sound right?
So I'm now thinking that I have not slipped the timing, so I do a compression test on the cylinders and find that I've got ZERO compression in all cylinders!!! How can this be? Did I bend all the Valve rods? Is something the matter with the lifters?
Surely I can't have a cylinder or piston ring issue that manifested itself instantly! If that was the case, the engine would have been running like crap, burning oil, etc. for weeks leading up to the failure, and this was not the case. It was running fine right up until it dying.
So that's my dilema. Any ideas about what's wrong and what to do about it? I'd love to hear from anyone with any suggestions>
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
I'm at wit's end with my 1991 BMW 318i M42B18 which probably has about 200,000 miles on it. For about a year there has been a distinct rattling emanating from the upper engine, leading me to guess the problem was maybe valves, hydraulic lifters, maybe a loose timing chain...? The engine, however, seemed to run fine and since the car is so old I didn't do anything about it.
Then 2 weeks ago, I'm driving along at about 40 mph and without any big noise or fanfare, the engine just dies. Upon trying to crank it over, the very first attempt, the engine sputtered just a bit, then every single time thereafter, absolutely nothing. It cranks incessantly but doesnt catch even a little.
Having had a past fuel pump failure give me similar symptoms, I checked this out and the fuel pump is fine. Pulled the plugs and made sure I'm getting good spark...all OK. I site down each of the cylinders and can at least confirm that all pistons are moving up and down.
Thinking maybe I broke the timing chain, I pulled the valve cover. Timing chains look fine. Thinking maybe the timing chain jumped, I checked the timing itself and it looks good too, at least from everything I can tell by studying my Chilton manual. I'm not 100% sure about this, but here's how it looked: I turn over the engine clockwise until the #1 piston is at TDC, at which point the intake and exhaust valves are more or less facing towards each other, and the arrows on the cam shaft sprockets are facing up, and the rear end of the cam shafts where the square end flats are parallel with the valve cover, and the 2 dimples are up. Does this sound right?
So I'm now thinking that I have not slipped the timing, so I do a compression test on the cylinders and find that I've got ZERO compression in all cylinders!!! How can this be? Did I bend all the Valve rods? Is something the matter with the lifters?
Surely I can't have a cylinder or piston ring issue that manifested itself instantly! If that was the case, the engine would have been running like crap, burning oil, etc. for weeks leading up to the failure, and this was not the case. It was running fine right up until it dying.
So that's my dilema. Any ideas about what's wrong and what to do about it? I'd love to hear from anyone with any suggestions>
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
12
M42 Reference / Engine Died
« on: March 12, 2011, 06:07:23 PM »
I'm at wit's end with my 1991 BMW 318i M42B18 which probably has about 200,000 miles on it. For about a year there has been a distinct rattling emanating from the upper engine, leading me to guess the problem was maybe valves, hydraulic lifters, maybe a loose timing chain...? The engine, however, seemed to run fine and since the car is so old I didn't do anything about it.
Then 2 weeks ago, I'm driving along at about 40 mph and without any big noise or fanfare, the engine just dies. Upon trying to crank it over, the very first attempt, the engine sputtered just a bit, then every single time thereafter, absolutely nothing. It cranks incessantly but doesnt catch even a little.
Having had a past fuel pump failure give me similar symptoms, I checked this out and the fuel pump is fine. Pulled the plugs and made sure I'm getting good spark...all OK. I site down each of the cylinders and can at least confirm that all pistons are moving up and down.
Thinking maybe I broke the timing chain, I pulled the valve cover. Timing chains look fine. Thinking maybe the timing chain jumped, I checked the timing itself and it looks good too, at least from everything I can tell by studying my Chilton manual. I'm not 100% sure about this, but here's how it looked: I turn over the engine clockwise until the #1 piston is at TDC, at which point the intake and exhaust valves are more or less facing towards each other, and the arrows on the cam shaft sprockets are facing up, and the rear end of the cam shafts where the square end flats are parallel with the valve cover, and the 2 dimples are up. Does this sound right?
So I'm now thinking that I have not slipped the timing, so I do a compression test on the cylinders and find that I've got ZERO compression in all cylinders!!! How can this be? Did I bend all the Valve rods? Is something the matter with the lifters?
Surely I can't have a cylinder or piston ring issue that manifested itself instantly! If that was the case, the engine would have been running like crap, burning oil, etc. for weeks leading up to the failure, and this was not the case. It was running fine right up until it dying.
So that's my dilema. Any ideas about what's wrong and what to do about it? I'd love to hear from anyone with any suggestions>
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
Then 2 weeks ago, I'm driving along at about 40 mph and without any big noise or fanfare, the engine just dies. Upon trying to crank it over, the very first attempt, the engine sputtered just a bit, then every single time thereafter, absolutely nothing. It cranks incessantly but doesnt catch even a little.
Having had a past fuel pump failure give me similar symptoms, I checked this out and the fuel pump is fine. Pulled the plugs and made sure I'm getting good spark...all OK. I site down each of the cylinders and can at least confirm that all pistons are moving up and down.
Thinking maybe I broke the timing chain, I pulled the valve cover. Timing chains look fine. Thinking maybe the timing chain jumped, I checked the timing itself and it looks good too, at least from everything I can tell by studying my Chilton manual. I'm not 100% sure about this, but here's how it looked: I turn over the engine clockwise until the #1 piston is at TDC, at which point the intake and exhaust valves are more or less facing towards each other, and the arrows on the cam shaft sprockets are facing up, and the rear end of the cam shafts where the square end flats are parallel with the valve cover, and the 2 dimples are up. Does this sound right?
So I'm now thinking that I have not slipped the timing, so I do a compression test on the cylinders and find that I've got ZERO compression in all cylinders!!! How can this be? Did I bend all the Valve rods? Is something the matter with the lifters?
Surely I can't have a cylinder or piston ring issue that manifested itself instantly! If that was the case, the engine would have been running like crap, burning oil, etc. for weeks leading up to the failure, and this was not the case. It was running fine right up until it dying.
So that's my dilema. Any ideas about what's wrong and what to do about it? I'd love to hear from anyone with any suggestions>
Hnilsen@canalbarge.com
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