Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Missing bolt, oil leak

« on: January 21, 2013, 12:34:53 PM »

#7 is 110 mm long or about 4.33 inchs.
Look to the right in the diagram @ 8mmx110.

Yeah, went to show my son the RealOEM page and saw that the length was listed. Doh on me.

2

Engine + Driveline / check TPS for proper op?

« on: January 21, 2013, 10:56:12 AM »

Chasing an idle hunt in my son's car.  We've got the heated intake bypass done and all the hoses are good.  intake gasket (upper) is new and the lower hasn't been off. Haven't found any response to spraying cleaner around the brake booster and other connections.  It's idling nice when cold.  I have another O2 sensor but haven't put that in yet.  The only code is for that, of course.  I have a spare throttle body with a TPS but that one is also unknown.  A buddy told me to measure it and ensure that it's telling the ECU that it's in the idle circuit.  It's a 3 pin setup, is there a spec for measuring resistance across the pins?

Also changing out the injectors for the Mustang ones today.  I know that I shouldn't do it until the idle is solved (in case they cause another issue) but the ones in the motor are crusty and are likely original.  It was a real bitch getting them to pop out of the head.  

Thanks

3

Engine + Driveline / Missing bolt, oil leak

« on: January 21, 2013, 09:36:07 AM »

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ93&mospid=47318&btnr=64_0552&hg=64&fg=50

Looks like all M8 or M6 fasteners...but I'm not sure what bolt you're referring to exactly.  Note that #7 is pretty long - maybe the bolt is too short to engage the threads?

Bingo!  #7.  I think you are right about the length.  I have a ton of bolts so I'll look for the longest one that I have and try it.  Too bad it doesn't show length in the schematic.

4

Engine + Driveline / Missing bolt, oil leak

« on: January 20, 2013, 09:50:49 PM »

Found it. Had to switch the catalog from current to archive

5

Engine + Driveline / Missing bolt, oil leak

« on: January 20, 2013, 09:48:58 PM »

Confused, don't see an E30 choice in the pick list. Starts with E36

6

Engine + Driveline / Missing bolt, oil leak

« on: January 20, 2013, 09:46:29 PM »

I'll take a pic tomorrow.  If you are looking at the tensioner pulley on the bottom of the engine, it's the bolt right above just to the right of the A/C compressor.  I have heard of realOEM recently but have never used it.  I'll check there as well. Worried that it was cross-threaded but if I find what it's supposed to be, I have a full tap set.

7

Engine + Driveline / Missing bolt, oil leak

« on: January 20, 2013, 07:43:56 PM »

I picked up an engine from a club member to swap in for my son's first car( 91 318is).  I just realized that a bolt is missing in the front of the engine.  It's on the bracket that holds the tensioner.  I've got a ton of bolts from stripping the old engine but they all seem to be M10 or M8.  M8 is too small and M10 is too large (M10 fits in the hole but the threads don't start).  Before I go buy some M9 bolts, is there a way to find the spec for that bolt?

8

Exterior / passenger side rain gutter?

« on: June 14, 2012, 09:28:46 PM »

We are working on a '91 318is that I picked up for my son's first car.  we just noticed the other day that the trim piece (rain gutter) on the passenger side is missing.  Any ideas on where to source something like this?

9

Suspension / Rear shock tower repair options

« on: June 14, 2012, 09:24:24 PM »

I picked up a '91 318is for my son's first car.  the PO lowered it and put a body kit on it and subsequently blew the motor and sold it.  the left rear shock tower has separated from the tub.  question is - do I just re-weld it or, purchase a new tower (sources?) and weld that back in?

10

Electrical / Electronics on Relay protected circuits dead

« on: June 14, 2012, 09:19:53 PM »

I am working on a '91 318is that I bought for my son for his first car.  We completed and engine swap (no 6 cyl for him though LOL) as the PO put the #2 Rod through the block.  The car sat about a year.  Ran pretty good but the starter was hanging and would continue to run after the engine started even with the key on.  changed out the starter but now, it seems like the main stuff protected through the various relay circuits (Kx slots in the fuse box) are not working.  No power to the fuses controlled by the relays.  The relays test out ok and there seems to be power on the correct pins.  I have an e30 electrical troubleshooting guide and I talked to my brother who thinks it might be ground-related.  Anyone here have any experience troubleshooting this or any thoughts?

The car isn't tagged yet so we pick at on the weekends so I'd like some ideas to check out this weekend.  

Thanks

11

Suspension / Clunking from Passenger Side Rear Wheel Area

« on: January 13, 2012, 09:09:08 AM »

Ha! I am in a similar situation.  Was going to post here.  I bought a '91 318is for my son as a project car.  In my case, the shock tower housing has torn away from the tub.  Thoughts on repairs?  is the whole housing available?  Is there a reinforcement kit somewhere?  They all seem to be focused on the top where the shock mounts.  I'd post a pic if I could figure out how to get it small enough to upload.

12

Engine + Driveline / 318is engine swap (same engine size)

« on: December 01, 2011, 09:32:31 AM »

I picked up a '91 318is with a blown engine (#2 rod through the block) for my 16yo son.  It's been a long project so the car has been in my garage since Oct 2010.  Last April, i picked up an engine from a guy here on the board doing a swap.  Came with the full harness and CPU.

So, finally got the swap done and have a couple things -
1) No fuel (no signal to in-tank pump but pump runs from external battery)
2) the starter will continue to run after key shutoff sometimes so I have to quick pull the battery cable.  (Actually, haven't tried turning the key on/off to see if that would fix it but it's only happened twice.  once on the first cranking try on once last night while testing circuits.

I checked so far -
1) i pulled the fuel pump relay and it clicks when tripped manually with 12v
2) i checked the pump function by running off ext batt
3) checked fuses 10/11 and also replaced just in case.  

Questions -
1) How can I best track down why the CPU isn't triggering the relay?
2) the only area of the engine that I forgot to do a before/after is the main battery connection area. I cant seem to upload the pic even though its only 142k.  Tried uploading from a link.  no luck.  Grr.  Hope the ***** works -

https://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left">https://picasaweb.google.com/115915252329368513884/12111?authuser=0&feat=*****website">https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g777xJ33a4g/TteaRX1qSIE/AAAAAAAAAF8/HCSz6hsYZTs/s160-c/12111.jpg" width="160" height="160" style="margin:1px 0 0 4px;">

https://picasaweb.google.com/115915252329368513884/12111?authuser=0&feat=*****website" style="color:#4D4D4D;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none;">12/1/11

3) think the starter problem is a sticky relay from sitting for 15 mos or a symptom of an electrical connection problem?