Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / I need some Serious $#%@#$in Help seriously

« on: December 24, 2011, 09:22:14 AM »

Fifty,

How was the IS running before you replaced the plug wires with COP's? Also I might have missed the posts but I tried to read everything and one of the latest was that you changed the ECU. Did you change the Camshaft sensor? These things are great when they're @ 100% but I tell you what, one little thing goes on with it and BOOM it seems like the whole thing is falling apart.

From a mechanic that you trust you're probably looking at no more than 500 to do everything like that. You're not doing an engine swap or digging deep into the engine. I only have internet currently here at work so I haven't been able to view your video of how it's running but something to consider would be:

Take off the COP's - yes they make them for the E30 M42 BUT... it wasn't stock with the vehicle.

Replace the Camshaft Sensor

Replace the PCV valve

Stupid question but have you checked your plugs? Not the wires, the plugs themselves. They could have had an incorrect one at the MFG and most likely you like pretty much everyone else probably isn't running standard electrode plugs anymore (which really don't lend themselves to adjusting gap). Just a thought. I've been in the middle of an engine swap for the past year (M42 going back in) and it's a pain in the butt how tempermental and touchy these guys are.

2

How-To's / Main Crank Pulley

« on: March 01, 2010, 06:17:40 PM »

Thank you thank you thank you. How'd you pull your off... not that E30 M42 isn't good enough... just want to pick brains, that's all. Was the engine in or out of the car. Did you use a breaker/cheater bar or an impact wrench?

3

How-To's / Main Crank Pulley

« on: March 01, 2010, 05:59:18 PM »

Yeah, I've got the engine out of the car because I'm doing a swap to an engine that probably doesn't have the main bearing possibly damaged. So far I've found a heavy duty 8mm allen wrench is working pretty well holding the crank still I put it thru a hole in the bell housing into a notch in the fly wheel.

Is guibo or another engine guru to tell me if it's reverse thread or not please.

4

How-To's / Main Crank Pulley

« on: March 01, 2010, 05:19:16 PM »

How hard was it to pull it off? Still need to know if it's a reverse thread or not. Did you use a cheater bar? I've heard some guys recommending using an impact wrench.

5

How-To's / Main Crank Pulley

« on: March 01, 2010, 05:06:42 PM »

Hi guys,

I'm in the middle of timing chain replacement and don't want to work hard the wrong way. Is the nut on the main crank pulley a reverse or standard threading nut? Also is the pulley tapered or a keyway pulley?

M42 for life.

Keith

6

Engine + Driveline / Is entire Oil pump replacement always necessary?

« on: December 01, 2009, 11:50:03 AM »

How would I know it's time to replace the lifters?

7

Engine + Driveline / Is entire Oil pump replacement always necessary?

« on: December 01, 2009, 11:49:28 AM »

Hi Nick. To be honest, I am just hoping this engine lives long enough (50-75k, 95% highway miles) for me to tear the other engine apart and start rebuilding it. So I probably won't do anything majorly internal until I've looked at the other engine first.

8

General Topics / New owner + dreaded oil question

« on: November 30, 2009, 12:45:25 PM »

I started out with Castrol high milage and then asked my mechanic about using synthetics on an engine over 100k on it. He mentioned to me that the higher milage oils really don't do any good because if you've got a problem with a leak or piston ring it'll still be there even with the high mile oils. Synthetics he said were great if you start a new or rebuilt engine on it. It actually doesn't do good enough in high milage engines to warrant the amount of money spent on synthetic oils. I've run 10w30 Castrol GTX since day one @ 175k and haven't had any smoking. My buddy has only about 90k on his (bought it @ 75k) and uses synthetics and has smoke... who'da thunk. just tossin' my cents.

9

Engine + Driveline / Is entire Oil pump replacement always necessary?

« on: November 30, 2009, 12:19:00 PM »

Not sure how many hits this'll get, but I just thought I'd drop a line that BMAautoparts.com (you should call them, not just depend on the online inventory) beat out both BMPdesign and Bavarian Autoparts on the following parts I ended up going to BMP design on the clutch kit from Sachs for 240.

All timing guides (upper, lower, tensioner piston side and right), timing chain, tensioner piston, upper and lower timing cover gaskets, valve cover gasket kit, all oil pump components except for the case (including rotor set), water pump (with metal impellar), upper and lower oil pan gaskets, all for $548 shipped.

Some Ford Escort ZX2 owner I'm friends with was giving me crap because I sent $800 on all this stuff. He said, "I can get a crated motor for mine for around $500". Then I asked him how many miles where on his car. He said 120k. I had to reply with, "Well, mine has 230k on it and most of this stuff I probably don't HAVE to do, but I'm doing it since it'll all be apart. And I won't have to screw with it for probably at least another 150 to 200k if ever."

He didn't say much after that.

You know, I hate to sound hoity-toity, but I love my little beemer. It's strong and pretty dang reliable for an 18 year old car. I love these ads that talk about how the new cars are braging about the EPA estimated 30 MPG HWY. I turned to my wife a few times and laughed and said, "I'm getting over 30 in an 18 year old car that takes alot more abuse and is alot more fun to drive." I try to treat it like it's just another car, but the situations I've been in with that thing... I don't know how good it would have been in another vehicle.

10

Engine + Driveline / Is entire Oil pump replacement always necessary?

« on: November 23, 2009, 01:46:02 PM »

Coo.

11

Engine + Driveline / Is entire Oil pump replacement always necessary?

« on: November 19, 2009, 12:08:39 PM »

Yeah, covered it with a garbage bag taped to the block.

So replacing the rotor set will mean I have to take the case off anyway? Would anyone here know the clearance I need, or would someone at BMW tell me that.

12

Engine + Driveline / Is entire Oil pump replacement always necessary?

« on: November 17, 2009, 11:32:03 AM »

Hi everyone,

Long time no see. Been busy with my wife having a baby and working three jobs this summer. I'm getting my baby back up and running.

I have 2 M42's in question here. Both have ~230k on them. One is sitting partially apart in my old car that a buddy needed the valve cover off of and other than that has had no engine issues. The other is in the car I am currently driving and it developed some issues. Found out the timing components need to be completely changed and so does the oil pump. Here is my question. I am going to swap engines replacing the water pump and all timing components. I am seeing that the "oil pump" replacement has two options to it. One is replacing the entire case which would very well run me ~$400:mad: , OR there is the rotor set (one of the main components to the oil pump) which would only run me ~$60 .

Has anyone ever had "issues" with the oil pump and replaced only the rotor set?

Any help on this would be great. Also with the engine sitting for about 2 years (6 months without the valve cover on it) is there any other issues I need to look out for before dropping it into the car?

Much thanks ahead of time,

Gus

13

Engine + Driveline / E30 M42 rebuild - expectations and realisms

« on: July 06, 2009, 11:57:24 AM »

was the cost so much because of having to replace a piston and valves? So the moding probably is what cost you. I'm really not looking for someone to lie to me, it's just I have a hard time reasoning why it would cost 3k just to rebuild. I know it'll probably be around 1k for the head gasket set (120), timing chain and components (90 for the chain, about 250 for the other parts), water pump (75 from Bav Auto for metal impellar version), oil pump (250 from BMW), oil pan (upper and lower) gaskets. Now the new vacuum lines I would see costing a bit (I would say close to $200). New main bearing should only run me about 80 (Bav Auto).

I'm going to be pulling the oldest motor (red chassis) first to clear the way for the other car to be put in the basement. Anyone here ever manufacture the cam positioning tool or know of a good substitute?

14

Engine + Driveline / E30 M42 rebuild - expectations and realisms

« on: July 06, 2009, 07:52:59 AM »

I just got done doing a stock rebuild.  I had everything checked out/rebuilt (crank, rods, head, etc.) at the machine shop.  I also replaced all timing guides/components, gaskets, hoses, etc.

It ended up costing me around 3000-3500.  That also includes replacing a piston and 4 valves due to my timing guide exploding:D

Derek,

Why so much. Did you replace every jot and tittle that made up the engine or just the required components. I'm hoping to get out under 2k. Did you find that you had to go to BMW for most of your parts or did you get them from other sources?

15

Engine + Driveline / E30 M42 rebuild - expectations and realisms

« on: July 03, 2009, 03:34:39 PM »

Hi everyone,

Anyone here rebuilt their M42 for the E30? I know of the one moded, which I would gladly take your advice. I'm looking at how much (best case scenarios, I already know the worst cases) I will at LEAST be looking at spending getting 1 OEM quality M42 out of 2 M42's at my place.

I already have ideas about what I will need to get new, but if anyone could provide me a list of parts I will HAVE to get new(I know there will probably be quite a bit that is obvious and I probably know already, but I won't be offended. The more detail I have now, the more likely this will end up coming out well in the end).

Thanks,

91318isguy