Messages

1

Electrical / Re: No response from CEL

« on: July 01, 2013, 08:31:49 PM »

This issue has been resolved.
Being a multimeter noob, i should've trusted my gut and stuck with my TPS harness being messed up due to not having any DC.
The issue was that the CEL was on because the car thought it was always WOT.
I couldn't get the stomp test to work due to the two wires in the TPS harness being cut.
After wiring it back up.. CEL was gone, idling issue was gone as well as the hesitation. LOL

2

Electrical / Re: No response from CEL

« on: June 28, 2013, 11:48:12 PM »

I replaced my TPS and no more hesitation(this didn't fix anything= refer to the last post). Also adjusted my throttle cable tension but I still cannot pull a cel code. I've ordered a cop kit since my wires were long due any way and for the price of OEM wires vs a cop kit.. Why not. I do however still have an idle issue. The car stalled on me while decelerating to a stop light. Idk why.

3

Electrical / Re: No response from CEL

« on: June 28, 2013, 02:57:49 AM »

I cleaned my ICV but I'm still getting idle issues and hesitation.
Tried the carb cleaner on hoses to check for leaks but no change in idle.
I did check the tps resistance and it was 400+/- and ithe value lessens when I move the throttle.
Tested with 2k ohm on the meter. That was the nearest to the values specified on the e36 manual.
From my understanding.. That's how to use a multimeter. Lol
I did check current and from what I read it had to me at least 5 dc on the tps harness with the key on ON positio  but I was getting 0.001 if I remember correctly. I forgot what dc setting was on my meter but that was the nearest range.
Either I did it wrong or my tps is bad.
Moving to camshaft position sensor.. I couldn't find values for it but it read 1500+/- ohms  while on the 2k ohm range. As for the crank position sensor I was getting 500+/- from what I read.. Isn't that where I'm supposed to be getting 1500+/- ohm from?!

4

Electrical / FIXED! : No response from CEL

« on: June 27, 2013, 12:32:11 PM »

I've searched around and nobody seems to have the same problem here on m42club aside from this thread:

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=13248.msg119886#msg119886

Instead of bumping it with a question i'll just start a new thread.

Initially i was having issues with random hesitation.
I can't narrow it down to speed/rpm because it randomly occurs and i'm given a hard shudder/ jerk as if i was bouncing off the rev limiter. There are times that When i do hit this imaginary rev limiter my CEL intermittently blinks off then comes back on.

When approaching a stoplight or doing a full stop, my idle will go way below ~800 rpm to the point of stalling if i don't put my foot on the gas. So i always end up heel and toe-ing to the stop light. lol

Thinking this was caused by a faulty or dirty ICV, i disconnected the ICV which temporarily afixed my idle to the 1k rpm range but hesitation still occurs.

I've checked my spark plugs and they all seem to burn the same. They're Bosch.
3 years ago i had replaced my fuel pump, filter, fpr and cylinder head.
2 Months ago, i had replaced my spark plugs.
1 day ago, i had changed my oil due to a smashed oil pan.
And i've recently passed smog as well. Good thing the CEL didn't show up then.

I've tried doing the stomp test several times only for the CEL to just have a staring competition with me. I eventually lose and still don't know what's going on.

If i manually actuate the throttle body with the key in the stomp test position and still get no response from the CEL, would that be caused by a faulty TPS? 

I haven't done any multimeter tests yet nor cleaned my ICV.
Maybe later after work.

5

Engine + Driveline / Re: How bad is it doc?

« on: May 23, 2013, 06:22:05 PM »

I agree it looks like #7. Mine was really brittle and broke upon removing.

The real question is...what shape are the rest of your guides in?

they look "OK" from when i did my headgasket and lower pan like two weeks ago.
How important is that bottom piece?

6

Engine + Driveline / Re: How bad is it doc?

« on: May 23, 2013, 02:43:14 PM »

Somebody on r3v (RogueToaster) mentioned:

That looks like #7 below, if so you should be fine for quite a while.

Has this ever happened to anybody?

7

Engine + Driveline / How bad is it doc?

« on: May 23, 2013, 02:00:07 PM »

I was doing my lower pan. And to my surprise i saw chunks of my timing guide.
It was two weeks ago since i last had my lower pan off so my estimate would be somewhere along the guide broke and it's been hanging out in my pan.

I'm deciding to either

• replace the guides, chains, sprockets.
• let it grenade while a refurb a new m42 on the side
• Or just put an m54 since this is my spare m42 car anyway.

Any suggestions?

8

Engine management / Re: Midnight M42 Performance Chips

« on: May 09, 2013, 07:32:23 PM »

This is great. I'll be keeping your product in mind!
You'll probably be getting an email from me soon.

9

Engine + Driveline / Re: ICV Issue?

« on: May 09, 2013, 03:47:03 PM »

try cleaning it or just find a used one.

That's what i did. 

10

Engine + Driveline / Re: Does this sound familiar?

« on: May 09, 2013, 04:41:56 AM »

Tl;dr / Summary of what had happened.

Wanted to replace starter.
Ended up replacing headgasket.
Starter was put in. Car won't turn.
Found out PO had an aftermarket alarm that was cutting ignition. Took that out.
Put new starter in because first replacement was a bust.
Car won't start. Reset timing. Car runs like shit. Fault code 1222.
Replaced o2 sensor since I needed to anyway.
Found out I didn't tighten my throttle body. Fixed 1222.
Now dealing with m42 radiator bleeding.. ugh

11

Engine + Driveline / Re: Does this sound familiar?

« on: May 06, 2013, 12:22:45 AM »

i opened up the valve cover.. sure enough my timing was so whack. I Reset everything. Rotated the crank twice then locked the flywheel. Reset cams and cam gears. Bolted everything back up and the car started right up and all is great.. No. just just kidding. The car is idling weird now. Did a stomp test and i ended up with 1222. I remembered i had to replace my 02 sensor anyway so i gave it a shot. Spliced in a 2002 mustang 4 wire 02 Sensor (Bosch 15707) Idling kind of improved.. or maybe i'm just getting frustrated with this... Car won't idle 'normally'. It will stay at 700~800 rpms. but almost sounds like it's going to die. I cleaned my ICV. and still no change. i checked my plugs and they weren't drenched in fuel. Still trying to figure things out, i take the car for a drive around my street and it seems i get power past 1500 rpm but as soon as i let go and wait for it to idle.. it almost sounds like it's going to die. I remembered i haven't bled the cooling system yet.
Here's a video for anybody interested to hear it.

http://youtu.be/l3fnladzaYI

and yes that was me instructing my sister what to do.
I had to step on the exhaust so it won't hit the rear valence.
Haven't fixed the hangers yet. lol

lastly, i do have the small wire disconnected from the firewall.

12

Engine + Driveline / Re: Does this sound familiar?

« on: May 04, 2013, 02:29:42 AM »

so i put a new starter in and now the car cranks...but won't start. I'm guessing it's a timing issue this time around or a mouse living in engine.

http://youtu.be/DOs34p9PB_E

13

How-To's / Re: fog light mod

« on: May 03, 2013, 01:41:32 PM »

Thank you for this write up OP. I'll be doing this tomorrow!

OT: These fog light laws make it seem like fog light = high beams. lol

14

How-To's / Re: Sterring wheel removal

« on: May 03, 2013, 01:34:33 PM »

I was actually trying to take off my wheel while working on my no crank issue thinking it was my ignition switch until i realized that one of the torx bolts were rounded off. Any suggestions on how i could take off the wheel?

15

For Sale / Re: Parting an M42 in Silver Spring, MD

« on: May 01, 2013, 01:21:01 PM »

Is the lower pan for sale and oil pickup tube?

Sorry, those are gone (actually, they are being reused in my 1600)

Aww. Thanks anyway and GLWS and the 1600!
OT but does your 1600 have a build thread? lol