Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Car accelerates by itself / high idle

« on: February 02, 2013, 07:06:20 AM »

Sensors are in right places, connection plugs look clean... Yeah, I have checked the resistance of CLT many times. Even put one of them into water and boiled it. Resistance was changing perfectly. Also got another brand new sensor - no effect at all. So I assume that CLT is not a cause of my problems.

Fuel pressure regulator and pump? Haven't checked these, but I will. However, I have a feeling that it is some kind of electronic problem. :/

EDIT: Just did a quick research online and found that in some cases high (fast) idle may be caused by wrong ignition timing. Does it make sense? Since the ignition timing is adjusted by crankshaft and camshaft sensors (correct me if I'm wrong) would it be a good idea to check/replace them?

2

Engine + Driveline / Car accelerates by itself / high idle

« on: February 01, 2013, 08:56:43 AM »

Well, both the throttle cable and throttle body are moving as they should. Nothing wrong there...

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Engine + Driveline / Car accelerates by itself / high idle

« on: January 31, 2013, 05:26:10 AM »

The car is '93 E36 with M42.

In most cases the car doesn't start on the 1st attempt. Still, I could perfectly live with that as long as it starts on the 2nd one. But the problem is that when I start the engine, at the beginning it runs like a crap (not always, but very often). But then the car starts to accelerate by itself and idles at ~2000rpm like a champ.
If I switch off the engine while it does this crazy stuff, I have some trouble to start it again. Basically what I need to do then is to switch off fuel pump and only then crank the engine. When it starts, I switch fuel pump back on and the car continues to idle high.

Here is my video http://youtu.be/Sdpmq3TVQlA.
I need to mention, that at 1:36 and 1:40 I barely pushed the throttle and high idle even increased.

However, all of this doesn't happen all the time, in most cases only after starting the engine. If I let her to idle for some time/drive it/restart the engine couple of times/disconnect the battery over night, the idle suddenly drops and the car runs perfectly that day.


What have I done?
*Cleaned idle control valve, also replaced it with used one.
*Replaced coolant temperature sensor (Diagnostics showed its error so I replaced it with brand new one. That day the car was running great, there were no problems at all. But the following morning - same problems... Checked voltage in the sensor's plug - 5V, which is OK according to the Bentley manual.)
*Checked for vaacum leaks
*Tested throttle position sensor's resistance.
*Checked whether ECU is dry or not. It is.

Well, I'm out of moves. Don't know what else I can do. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!

4

Engine + Driveline / violent stammering at 3500 ~4000+ RPM in 5th Gear

« on: June 13, 2011, 01:41:28 PM »

^ When I did this on my the other day, the resistance raises/changes steadily but then gets to a point, like mid point on the flap opening, where it goes back to the start as it lowers/changes steadily back. Like a pendulum. Goes up and then down. Is this normal?

Could you tell what values you was getting while testing resistance? Mine AFM behaves quite strange because it shows constant resistance between terminals 1&2 and only voltage changes when ignition is on.

5

Engine + Driveline / violent stammering at 3500 ~4000+ RPM in 5th Gear

« on: June 13, 2011, 05:51:10 AM »

yep. did the whole resistance testing and came up with inconsistent values, up and down. so i popped it open and checked the carbon track. and sure enough its was like thinned out on the spots where resistance was off... long story short, i kinda fucked my afm.

When you was doing resistance testing the resistance between 1&2 terminals was consistant or was changing according to the movement of flap? It would be useful to know.

6

Engine + Driveline / Idles too low (accelerates with hesitation) after cold start

« on: June 11, 2011, 02:14:19 PM »

Hi guys. I own the european 1993 318is with M42B18 and manual transmission.

Few weeks ago I have noticed that something is wrong with the car. There are two sympthoms and they both appeared in about the same time. So I don't really know it is the one fault or more of them.
______________________
To begin with, the car doesn't run properly after the cold start (when the engine is cold). As you can see in the video, it cranks a bit too long and after it the engine runs poor, idle is too low and a bit rough. During this time I can rev the engine only if I push the pedal slowly, because if I push it quickly, the engine tends to die, struggles to work. As I said you can see and hear it in the video. This happens for a minute or less and later there are no problems with starting (however once this happend with warm engine).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy13Sy9l_qM

In addition to this, sometimes while driving the car (doesn't matter cold or hot) I can feel that it starts to accelerate itself. Idle is too high - ~1500rpm. This happens for a short period of time. After few minutes or less the idle drops.
______________________
Dear people, could you share your ideas what is possibly wrong with my BMW?
I had the car scanned for a fault codes - it showed the temperature sensor. The sensor's plug is OK, it gets right voltage and so on. Also I've changed two of them - no difference. Moreover, I have cleaned the idle control valve, changed it with another - also no difference.
I don't really know what else could be wrong. Please give some help. :rolleyes:

7

Engine + Driveline / 1993 E36 318is Problem with idle control valve

« on: November 01, 2010, 11:23:54 PM »

I cleaned ICV to make it even better. Well, I think it would be better to miss this thing until something more important will happen. Thanks for replies.

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Engine + Driveline / 1993 E36 318is Problem with idle control valve

« on: November 01, 2010, 07:40:48 AM »

Hmmz, I like your's idea. Maybe it really needs vacuum going through it. Although I think it should make some kind of sound. Well... To be honest my car is idling great but sometimes when I drive and put neautral gear, revs drop to ~500 and come back to normal ~800. That's a little issue but quite annoying.
Do you think that the car with ICV stuck in position like this would simply die on idle?

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Engine + Driveline / 1993 E36 318is Problem with idle control valve

« on: November 01, 2010, 01:15:17 AM »

Anyone? :rolleyes:

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Engine + Driveline / 1993 E36 318is Problem with idle control valve

« on: October 30, 2010, 09:28:07 AM »

Guys, I have small question about idle control valve (ICV).
I have some problems with my car so I decided to clean my ICV. After disconnecting the hoses I decided to look how everything inside is working. Here's the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLJrHjRT4r0

As you see, there's no difference whether ignition is on or off. Some people say that ICV should make some sound and/or be open when ignition is on, but obviously mine doesn't do anything.

Do you know how ICV is working when ignition is on(engine is off)? Or how I can test it without reading fault codes?

Thanks.