Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Cam Cover

« on: June 30, 2010, 09:14:47 PM »

do you have a DIY on doing the cam cover / valve cover gasket + o rings?  Is it difficult on the m42, the m52 DIY says it takes 4-5 hours. :| ... I can't imagine it taking so long to do.

2

Electrical / m42 surging/bogging problem

« on: June 30, 2010, 08:54:28 PM »

Should be the same thing no?  Still an m42 engine.  In either case, idle is fine usually... only after coming to a complete stop after accelerating for a while it might die.  

So here's some weird symptoms now.  On my way home today the check engine light came on intermittently, on and off.  Usually when it would bog the CEL would come on.  

I took off all the hoses and cleaned them out, I found some large holes in two of them so I replaced them or cut them where the hole was at the end (where the clamp was) and put them back on.  Now the CEL is on all the time.

For the record, the stomp test definitely does not work for my car.  Tried it a tonne of times when I bought the car 10 years ago, and still today it's not working for me.  And where I am is a holiday tomorrow so I won't be able to get it scanned/read until Friday at the earliest.

So I found two other interesting things... I went to check my spark plugs and surprised to find that cylinder 2 was full of oil, and cylinder 3 had some oil at the bottom as well.  So looks like it's time to change my valve cover gaskets + o rings.  Does anyone have a detailed DIY on doing this on the m42?

3

How-To's / '02 mustang 4.6L 02 sensor

« on: June 30, 2010, 02:47:05 PM »

I don't get it... the Bosch website only has the original BMW sensor for $102 or a Universal for $87.50.  It doesn't provide any part numbers for a Mustang o2 sensor.

Anyone know which o2 sensor / part number I require for a 1992 318i (north american) e36?:confused:

I want to make sure since most members on this forum seem to have e30's and apparenly the OEM BMW o2 sensor is a diff part number.

4

Electrical / m42 surging/bogging problem

« on: June 30, 2010, 01:53:45 PM »

1992 318i

First off, does the stomp test work on e36's?  or only e30's?

So this bogging started this morning.  It does NOT only happen when cold, it does NOT only happen when the engine is warm, and it does NOT only happen when starting from a stop-light, and it does NOT only happen at certain engine speeds.

I already checked for vac leaks.

At any engine speed, or vehicle speed the engine will suddenly bog and surge once.  It will happen at 10km/h or at 60km/h.  When coming to a stop, the engine died once.  Otherwise is idles at around 1100rpm then slowly settles properly at around 750rpm.  (similar to when the engine is cold).

5

Electrical / battery light stays on

« on: June 30, 2010, 01:47:33 PM »

Problem is likely with a burnt diode in your alternator.  If the ignition is off the diode will continue to draw power and your alternator light on the dashboard will illuminate.  It basically turns on a circuit in your car thar should be off, and in the process draws power from your battery, will usually eventually result in a dead battery overnight.  Could be something else, but this is the likely culprit... this isn't only with m42's, pretty much all vehicles could have this same issue.

Here's some info I copied and pasted from another site:

ALTERNATOR DIODE FAILURES

One of the most common causes of charging problems is the failure of one or more diodes in the alternator. Alternators have six diodes (three negative and three positive) that convert the alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC). They are called a diode trio because each negative diode is paired with a positive diode.

When the engine is running, charging current from the alternator flows through the diode trio via the BAT (B+) connection on the back of the alternator. A little current also flows through the charging light indicator circuit. On GM alternators, the indicator light circuit is terminal 1. On European alternators, the indicator light circuit is usually called 61 or D+. On Asian alternators, it is usually labeled L. This terminal leads to the ground side of the alternator warning light. When the alternator is charging, the diode trio supplies voltage to the ground side of the indicator light. This offsets the battery voltage applied to the positive side of the light, causing the light to go out once the engine starts. If the alternator stops charging, current flows though the light circuit from the positive side causing the charging system warning light to come on.

If one of the diodes fails, it may cause the charging system indicator light to glow dimly. If two or more diodes fail, the light will get brighter. At the same time, the feedback current from the diode trio will reduce the alternators ability to produce current. So the more diodes that fail, the less power the alternator will generate.

A bad connection or open circuit between the alternator output terminal and the positive battery terminal will force the charging current to follow a parallel route through the diode trio and out of the alternator. This heavier than normal current flow through the diodes will cause them to overheat and fail. Consequently, if you have replaced an alternator before because of bad diodes, and the replacement fails for the same reason, there is likely a bad connection or open circuit between the alternator BAT (B+) terminal and the positive side of the battery circuit. Do a voltage drop test to check the entire circuit.

6

Electrical / Fuel gauge reading isn't correct, what's up?

« on: June 30, 2010, 01:40:38 PM »

I thought these cars had TWO level sensor, (e36) one on each side of the tank.  And the computer averages the two out to provide the fuel level.  If ONE of the senders is stuck at full, then when you are empty it would say 1/2 tank.  Maybe try checking the other fuel level sensor?