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Messages - johna

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13
1
Engine + Driveline / Re: M40 Flywheel swap - vibration?
« on: October 13, 2017, 06:32:19 AM »
As I said in the other thread I didn't notice much difference going from DMF to the M40 flywheel but other people have said that they have. The harshness I noticed was only at low engine speeds under load, like when you are taking of up a hill so not a big deal.

If you want maximum smoothness and comfort the factory knows best so stick with the DMF, but if you want to chase a bit of extra zippiness then worth trying a lightened M40 flywheel or maybe the one from RHD engineering.

2
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: M42 DASC limits
« on: August 16, 2017, 04:04:31 AM »
I can't help with most of your questions but maybe on the noise question.

What air filter are you running? My car had the original K&N filter that comes with the DASC kit when I bought it and i could hear the super charger. I have since replaced with a sealed air filter and now can't hear it any more.

3
Engine + Driveline / Re: M40 vs M42 clutch torque capicity
« on: August 01, 2017, 04:23:29 AM »
Quote from: robrez on July 14, 2017, 04:43:45 PM
Bumping this thread up. I have an M40 single-mass, non-AC flywheel (ironically, I bought it from MikeDE) to replace my dual mass 91' 318i m42 flywheel. However, I've since installed a DASC, which I'm running basically as intended by Downing Atlanta. Is the M40 single-mass flywheel with oem clutch going to be stout enough? If not, is there a beefier clutch I can use with the M40 flywheel?

I bought my 318is already with a DASC (M44 but same dual mass flywheel/clutch as M42). Not sure how old the clutch was when I bought it, but it didn't like some acceleration "testing" I did and started slipping after that.

I found that M50/M52 flywheel/clutches (dual mass) were a similar weight (some are a little lighter) and are a bit larger in diameter so should stand up to the extra power/torque from the DASC.

I found a used M50 flywheel and good clutch and fitted them. Although a touch heavier I don't notice any difference.

Years ago I had a M40 flywheel fitted to my E30 318is (M42, no DASC) and didn't notice any difference due to the lightweight except a bit more vibration at lower engine speeds under load. It didn't seem any faster to me and I did some acceleration testing and it was at best 1/10s better to 100km/h.

If you really want some significant improvement I would look at much lighter flywheels with bigger clutches like the RHD Engineering flywheels (http://racehead.com.au/products-page/engine-components/bmw-light-flywheel-m50-m52-m42-m44/).

But you can also get a heavy duty clutch and pressure plate for the M40 flywheel (or get the pressure plate modified to be stronger).

4
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Facebook group for DASC owners
« on: August 01, 2017, 04:13:42 AM »
I've been struggling to find information for some of the problems I have with my DASC. I thought it might be useful to start a Facebook Group for DASC owners to discuss DASC issues and share information.

If you have a DASC and are on Facebook, please join facebook.com/groups/bmwdasc/

5
How-To's / Re: JERKY ACCELERATION PLEASE HELP
« on: May 20, 2017, 07:53:12 AM »
A video may help, if you can.

Does it run okay otherwise?

6
Engine + Driveline / Re: Belt AND Pulley Replacement? - When to stop buying parts???
« on: May 15, 2017, 06:10:51 AM »
If it makes you happy and/or gives you piece of mind go for it. Its not like you are wasting money on buying M3 badges, Chrome door locks or some other useless items that devalue the car.

Is it an E30 or 36? Where I am (Australia) E30 318is's are becoming collectible and are worth at least double what an E36 is worth.

7
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Replacement RRFPR for DASC
« on: May 09, 2017, 03:11:37 AM »
My mechanic says I need a replacement adjustable fuel pressure regulator for my DASC equipped 318is (M44).

There are quite a few different adjustable fuel pressure regulators on eBay but I'm not sure if any of these are suitable.

I understand I need a FMU, not a FPR. These come in various ratios, or fully adjustable.

Does anyone know the ratio of the original unit?

Or has anyone got any suggestions for a replacement regulator and how to adjust?

NB. I am in Australia

8
How-To's / Re: New Thermostat housing install on M42...O ring or gasket? Or both?
« on: March 23, 2017, 05:10:53 AM »
Been a while since I did one on a M42 but I'm sure you use both the rubber oring that comes with the thermostat and a new paper gasket.

9
Engine + Driveline / Re: M42 weaknesses also apply to M44?
« on: June 28, 2016, 04:24:21 AM »
Quote from: Darky on June 28, 2016, 01:32:53 AM
M44 has the updated pressure relief valve but still only a 270 deg oil grove on the thrust bearing!

Hope this helps Rohan

Thank you for the answer.

How can we improve the thrust bearing issue. Do e just need to fit the M50 parts or is there more to it?

10
Engine + Driveline / M42 weaknesses also apply to M44?
« on: June 27, 2016, 04:56:28 PM »
I saw this post on a few pages about some of the weaknesses of the M42 engine. I was wondering how much of this also applies to the M44, particularly number 2 and number 4? Does anyone know?

Quote from: peerless
Here is my experience with rebuilding 2 M42's. One took 3 engines to make one good one.

We will start with the factory flaws and how they should be corrected.

1) Stamped steel chain guide. These fracture and break apart. Replace with upgraded dealer part, its a all nylon/plastic construction. You will need one new 45mm long bolt in conjunction with the new guide.

2) Steel oil pressure relief valve, aluminum front cover. The steel valve can seize causing a immediate loss of all oil pressure, good by engine. Replace with updated dealer part, made of nylon/plastic. Make sure you get the spring and spacer as well. The spring is slightly longer so it all a matched assembly. You will most likely want to replace the oil pump rotors, front pump cover and bolts. All of this is about $45.

3) Front chain cover. These are known for leaking profile gasksets. The rail that holds this gasket gets corroded and leaks. Every one notices when it leaks outside the block, but no one notices when it seeps behind the block. This creates a rust cavity potentially damaging the front face of the block. Expect to at a minimum to replace the front cover. If the block is damaged, you can surface the front face to clean up any rust damage. .015" MAX.

4) Main thrust bearing. The factory in all their wisdom decided to only use half a thrust bearing shell. This is not capable of handling the high rpm loads created by the M42. You will find the bearing to be rounded and burnt black. The crankshaft thrust surface must be inspected carefully. On the 2 engines I built one crank was scrap and the other barely within spec. To correct this problem you will want to replace with a full 360* thrust bearing. I do not know if the standard replacement bearings come with 2 halfs. I use the early eta M20 main bearing set and have the lower main caps custom machined so they fit. This not only gives me a full 360* thrust surface, it also gives me a full 360* oil groove for improved oiling to the rod bearings. As a note, I pulled the oil pan on a M42 with 80K miles, it already had thrust bearing material in the pan, along with 4 oil pan bolts.

5) Crank pulley. While the stock crank chain gear does not wear very much a new upgraded part is available from the dealer. It has 2 rubber rings molded into it. This helps keep harmonic vibrations in check. This may help prevent the oil pan bolts from backing out

6) Rod bearings, I use custom Clevite 77 NASCAR performance bearings. This is a upgrade, the stock peices should work just fine as well.

7) lock-tite all your upper oil pan bolts to prevent them from backing out. This is a big problem on the front 6 bolts that surround the gasket for the oil pump pick area of the pan gasket. When these back out and fall into the pan the gasket can push out and you lose oil pressure. See number 5.

Regarding valve guides, they should be fine as they have very little side laoding due to the valve train arrangement. I did not need a cam removal tool either. When loosening and tightening the cam tower bolts, take your time, do it slow and evenly. Remember the camshafts are hollow and can break easily.

If anyone tells you the stock M42 is a great engine, they are pulling your leg or don't know the M42 very well. The stock M42 is very self destructive.

I have pictures to back up every flaw I just described above. Everything I said above comes from direct experience with the M42 engine.

Expect to pay about $2,500+ in parts and machine work to properly rebuild the M42. If you need help/advice along the way just give me shout.

11
Engine + Driveline / Re: M42/4 Native Lightened Flywheel - Going Lightweight Pros/Cons
« on: June 25, 2016, 06:29:31 PM »
The RHD website mentions you may have to extend the clutch slave rod. Does anyone know if you have to do this on a M42/M44? Or does it depend on the clutch kit used?

12
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / DASC questions
« on: January 30, 2015, 05:29:58 AM »
I have an E36 318is (M44) with a DASC kit.

I have read that I can add a "R POT" valve to the air pipe to the air shrouded injectors to reduce boost loss. Do you know if I can use the same valve as the one fitted to the brake booster vacuum hose as this seems to do the same thing, although I don't know if it can/how much boost it can take?

I no longer have the DISA system of course. How can I make a DISA simulator to prevent the error code? I read that you just need to put a resistor across some of the connector pins, but need more information on this.

I plan to change from the K&N pod air filter back to the original. Is there any problem with this?

13
M42 Reference / Re: Share Your 318is Magazine Articles Here
« on: May 08, 2014, 09:51:55 PM »
Here's some more articles, mostly from Australian magazines, but these are for the E36 318is:


14
Engine + Driveline / Will M50 or M52 flywheel clutch fit M42 or M44?
« on: May 08, 2014, 07:55:50 PM »
I have a 318is with M44 engine and DASC. I am looking for a new upgraded clutch.

I know about the M20 flywheel conversion but I was looking for a simpler conversion.

I have been told that M50 or M52 flywheels will work.

Can anyone confirm whether this is true and which models exactly work? Has anyone actually done it? Also are any other changes needed such as spacers, starter motor, ring gear, throw out bearing, bolts, etc, and which clutch to use?

If it does work could I buy a Valeo solid flywheel for an E36/E46 323i, 328i or E46 325i? There seems to be 3 kits available from Valeo - 52281208, 52401210 and 52401220 - no idea which is correct. 52281208 is much cheaper so would be good if it fitted.

15
Engine + Driveline / Anyone know if automatic transmissions are interchangeable between E36 M42 and M44
« on: February 02, 2012, 08:13:47 PM »
Looking at different model E36 318is on realoem.com there seems to be quite a few different types of automatic transmissions available.

I have a 12/1996 318is (M44) which according to realoem.com has a A4S 310R "RO" type and I am looking for a replacement.

How important are those last two letters?

Will an auto trans from a 1995 318is (M42) fit? Or one from a later 1997 M44 that has a different two letter code?

Anyone know some way to look up the differences in these transmissions?

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