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Exterior / Who has a Diamantschwarz E30?
« on: February 11, 2012, 04:10:23 PM »
My previous car and how to keep it clean after some off-road driving... :rolleyes:
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My previous car and how to keep it clean after some off-road driving... :rolleyes:
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Engine + Driveline / Some dumbass left a washer inside the head
« on: May 14, 2011, 04:39:26 AM »
It wasn't installed in my m42 head either... ANd the dealer forgot to order part number 10 so i'll have to wait again.
I think i'm not going to wait and just assemble the head without that valve...
Did any of you guys encountered problems without it? All i can say the engine ranned fine without it so...:confused:
I think i'm not going to wait and just assemble the head without that valve...
Did any of you guys encountered problems without it? All i can say the engine ranned fine without it so...:confused:
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Engine + Driveline / Some dumbass left a washer inside the head
« on: May 13, 2011, 02:40:30 PM »
Thanks Ralph. But the only place where it seems to fit is between the second and third cilinder on top of the block when you stand on the rightside of the car.
There you can see a frazed out channel that goes to the hole of the head bolt.
From there on i don't get it... Also the frazed out channel doesn't seems deep enough for the anti drain valve. I will post some pics of the block then you can see what i mean.
There doesn't seems to be another place for that valve right? Did you put that in you car btw? The thing itself is about 1cm high and seems double to high too fit in there...
The marked hole has also screw thread btw and it connects with the hole for head bolt wich is kinda weird.
There you can see a frazed out channel that goes to the hole of the head bolt.
From there on i don't get it... Also the frazed out channel doesn't seems deep enough for the anti drain valve. I will post some pics of the block then you can see what i mean.
There doesn't seems to be another place for that valve right? Did you put that in you car btw? The thing itself is about 1cm high and seems double to high too fit in there...
The marked hole has also screw thread btw and it connects with the hole for head bolt wich is kinda weird.
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Engine + Driveline / Some dumbass left a washer inside the head
« on: May 13, 2011, 01:56:23 PM »
I've got a question and maybe one of you guys can help me...(sorry for bumping this thread up)
A week ago the engine head was rebuild, new valve seals, valve guides(dont know the excact english word for it? ) valve seats etc. There is only 1 thing wich i'm not sure it will fit...
It's called by BMW by the name ''no return valve'' and its sits in block. Or the head maybe? Anyway i read a couple of things on the net that says it doesn't really have to be there.
I assume it's not therefore bacon and beans right? That's a term in Dutch The no return valve doesn't reallly seems to fit in the block and the gasket. If anyone have some information on this that would be great.
I'm talking about no. 9 and 10
A week ago the engine head was rebuild, new valve seals, valve guides(dont know the excact english word for it?
) valve seats etc. There is only 1 thing wich i'm not sure it will fit... It's called by BMW by the name ''no return valve'' and its sits in block. Or the head maybe? Anyway i read a couple of things on the net that says it doesn't really have to be there.
I assume it's not therefore bacon and beans right? That's a term in Dutch
The no return valve doesn't reallly seems to fit in the block and the gasket. If anyone have some information on this that would be great.I'm talking about no. 9 and 10
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Engine + Driveline / Hesitation after Injector Cleaner
« on: May 05, 2011, 05:53:44 PM »
8 months ago my fuel pump stopped working. Weird thing was it did it now and then but not always...
First thing i did was checking the cam and crank sensor. I'll have the values laying around somewhere, if you want i'll post them here.
First thing i did was checking the cam and crank sensor. I'll have the values laying around somewhere, if you want i'll post them here.
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Engine + Driveline / Some dumbass left a washer inside the head
« on: May 01, 2011, 05:40:24 PM »
Thank you Ralph! And you're right these engines are very strong, when i first drove this car i was also suprised by the power of this 21 year old 4 cilinder.
My intention was to go for an e30 with a m20 2.5 but that engine is much bigger and forward placed then the M42.
And i didn't want a nose heavy car so the choice was simple
By the way when looking at your name/avatar... I know a guy that bought a warsteiner e30 M3 a couple of weeks ago.
That car is really perfect, engine with only 50.000km's , the thing looks like brand new everywhere you look.
He imported it from Germany, wich is pretty easy because they are our neighbours.(if you got a bag full of money)
these are the last pictures i've got.
This engine has 250.000 km's on it;
My intention was to go for an e30 with a m20 2.5 but that engine is much bigger and forward placed then the M42.
And i didn't want a nose heavy car so the choice was simple
By the way when looking at your name/avatar... I know a guy that bought a warsteiner e30 M3 a couple of weeks ago.
That car is really perfect, engine with only 50.000km's , the thing looks like brand new everywhere you look.
He imported it from Germany, wich is pretty easy because they are our neighbours.(if you got a bag full of money
)these are the last pictures i've got.
This engine has 250.000 km's on it;
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Engine + Driveline / Some dumbass left a washer inside the head
« on: May 01, 2011, 01:59:41 PM »
I was taking my engine apart because it suffered from the well known timing case gasket failure. The head also needed to be resurfaced and for that the cams en valves has to be removed.
To save some money and spare the shop some time(in that order) i decided to do it myself but when i removed the cams i discovered something crazy...
One of the hydraulic tappets was missing pieces of metal on the underside...
Here's a pic of the tappet ;
As you can see all around the tappet, pieces of metal has broken off.
when the tappet is installed it can rotate so my guess was there must be something stuck underside the tappet and i was right as you can see in the picture below...
If you see something like this you wonder why how anyone could be soo dumb to left a washer in there.
If you look good you can see that the tapped has smashed into the upstanding washer and the washer is also stuck so there was enough force to smash it into the head itself.
Strange but fortunately the the valves are all ok and the rest is in pretty good shape . Since i have the car i've drove about 25.000 Km with it.
My only concern is where those pieces of metal have gone as they are not that small...
On the other hand, i've changed my oil about 3 times by now and drove many thousands of enthousiastic kilometres with this damage while the engine worked perfectly.
Forgive me if i've made some mistakes in the language, i'm from the Netherlands in Europa
To save some money and spare the shop some time(in that order) i decided to do it myself but when i removed the cams i discovered something crazy...
One of the hydraulic tappets was missing pieces of metal on the underside...
Here's a pic of the tappet ;
As you can see all around the tappet, pieces of metal has broken off.
when the tappet is installed it can rotate so my guess was there must be something stuck underside the tappet and i was right as you can see in the picture below...
If you see something like this you wonder why how anyone could be soo dumb to left a washer in there.
If you look good you can see that the tapped has smashed into the upstanding washer and the washer is also stuck so there was enough force to smash it into the head itself.
Strange but fortunately the the valves are all ok and the rest is in pretty good shape . Since i have the car i've drove about 25.000 Km with it.
My only concern is where those pieces of metal have gone as they are not that small...
On the other hand, i've changed my oil about 3 times by now and drove many thousands of enthousiastic kilometres with this damage while the engine worked perfectly.
Forgive me if i've made some mistakes in the language, i'm from the Netherlands in Europa
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Engine + Driveline / overheating when not moving?
« on: April 13, 2011, 09:28:58 AM »
If you doesn't see any leaks under you're car i would first do what Dave said.
Very bright explanation by the way! When there is air in the cooling system the temp. needle tends to bounce from my experience..
A couple of days ago my car also went too hot. The difference i have is that when i got home there was about 1 Ltr. of coolant under my car.
After some research the coollant came from the motorblock itself, where the head meets the timing chain cover.
So in my case it's probably the (in)famous timing case gasket.
Here is a pic. of it ;
Very bright explanation by the way! When there is air in the cooling system the temp. needle tends to bounce from my experience..
A couple of days ago my car also went too hot. The difference i have is that when i got home there was about 1 Ltr. of coolant under my car.
After some research the coollant came from the motorblock itself, where the head meets the timing chain cover.
So in my case it's probably the (in)famous timing case gasket.
Here is a pic. of it ;
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Engine management / '91 318is - Suddenly won't start - Suggestions?
« on: May 21, 2010, 08:11:32 AM »
I'm already lookin for a new pump, it's indeed one of those parts were you want to be sure of working correct.
Glad you've got a good time in Amsterdam , its a nice city.
I also like the tolerancy in my country although i have the feeling that it's changing a little.
More unneccesary rules and laws , our country is not so big and we've got a relatively large population so the government wants to controle alot these days.
But you wil experience the same thing in America i guess
I find the old Guldens a better lookin money than the euro, and i think a lot of people here will agree with me.
I actually never been to America but i would love to go sometime.
You're country has got so big in such a relatively short time-span, thats pretty interesting... But until i go al my money will flow to the old BMW
Glad you've got a good time in Amsterdam , its a nice city.
I also like the tolerancy in my country although i have the feeling that it's changing a little.
More unneccesary rules and laws , our country is not so big and we've got a relatively large population so the government wants to controle alot these days.
But you wil experience the same thing in America i guess
I find the old Guldens a better lookin money than the euro, and i think a lot of people here will agree with me.
I actually never been to America but i would love to go sometime.
You're country has got so big in such a relatively short time-span, thats pretty interesting... But until i go al my money will flow to the old BMW
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Engine management / '91 318is - Suddenly won't start - Suggestions?
« on: May 21, 2010, 06:45:53 AM »
It's been a while and the car sometimes runs great and other times it just won't start.
I did removed the fuel pump and hooked it directly tot 12V.
This seems to work , however the second time i did this the pump did not react.
When i hit it with my nail it began pumping, so it looks like the pump get stuck at certain moments.
@Red IS91, My engine has about 240.000 Km so thats about.... 150.000 miles, so i think the pump has had it longest time then
Desktop Dave, I think my battery is ok, it gives a good voltage and when i crank the car it ignited pretty fast. If there was some fuel to ignite!
You are lucky that you have that 5 times gaspedal push read-out.
A couple of months ago i didn't knew that it was a US spec so i pressed the gas pedal at least 50 times to discover some codes :rolleyes:
My car is originally imported from Germany to Holland in 1994, so it has the European kind of DME/ECU with no stomp test.
When hooked the pump externally and run the car, the fuel pump connector gives a voltage of 13,78V so the power to the pump is also correct.
Later on i thought it could be the fuel pressure regulator because it won't start if the car had stand still for a while.
But even without a broken pressure regulater the car would at least start and sputter a little right?
I'm going to look for another pump because hitting the pump every time i start the car is a little stupid...
And you're right, you can see a lot of American cars here.
A friend of mine has a Chevrolet K30 pick-up truck(from the gulf war) and we live in a forest rich enviroment so thats a lot of fun with such a pick up.
It pulls itself through the tickest en deepest mud with no hesitation
Were you here on vacation?
I did removed the fuel pump and hooked it directly tot 12V.
This seems to work , however the second time i did this the pump did not react.
When i hit it with my nail it began pumping, so it looks like the pump get stuck at certain moments.
@Red IS91, My engine has about 240.000 Km so thats about.... 150.000 miles, so i think the pump has had it longest time then
Desktop Dave, I think my battery is ok, it gives a good voltage and when i crank the car it ignited pretty fast. If there was some fuel to ignite!
You are lucky that you have that 5 times gaspedal push read-out.
A couple of months ago i didn't knew that it was a US spec so i pressed the gas pedal at least 50 times to discover some codes :rolleyes:
My car is originally imported from Germany to Holland in 1994, so it has the European kind of DME/ECU with no stomp test.
When hooked the pump externally and run the car, the fuel pump connector gives a voltage of 13,78V so the power to the pump is also correct.
Later on i thought it could be the fuel pressure regulator because it won't start if the car had stand still for a while.
But even without a broken pressure regulater the car would at least start and sputter a little right?
I'm going to look for another pump because hitting the pump every time i start the car is a little stupid...
And you're right, you can see a lot of American cars here.
A friend of mine has a Chevrolet K30 pick-up truck(from the gulf war) and we live in a forest rich enviroment so thats a lot of fun with such a pick up.
It pulls itself through the tickest en deepest mud with no hesitation
Were you here on vacation?
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Engine management / '91 318is - Suddenly won't start - Suggestions?
« on: May 13, 2010, 06:12:35 AM »
Maybe you're right about the relay but i measured it at the seat(?) of the relais and the voltage was also low there. And i hear a clear clicking sound from the relais.
But what is a stomp test Dave?
When i turned on the ignition and measured the voltage at the pump connection this was at most 11 volts , isn't this enough to at least make it turn on?(if the pump is ok)
But what is a stomp test Dave?
When i turned on the ignition and measured the voltage at the pump connection this was at most 11 volts , isn't this enough to at least make it turn on?(if the pump is ok)
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Engine management / '91 318is - Suddenly won't start - Suggestions?
« on: May 12, 2010, 03:09:10 PM »Quote from: DesktopDave;92315
If no fuel, check the fuel pump relay. The crank sensor might just be dirty too. It's magnetic, so it picks up rust and the signal gets inaccurate. Re-adjust it too. It has to be very close to the crank trigger wheel.
I'd check the connectors on the fuel pump too. They can loosen up and not provide enough current to run the pump.
Look closely for any cracked vacuum hoses. They must be tight (especially the big hoses for the idle control valve), air leaks will prevent the engine from starting.
If that doesn't do it, have the fuel pressure tested. The pumps only seem to last about 80-120K miles, and a plugged fuel filter can cause trouble too. Pressure regulators are pretty reliable but have been known to fail.
It looks like my fuel pump is broken because i hear no clicking sound anymore when i turn on the key.
I checked for voltage at the relay and the pump itself and that was okay. i got only 1 question about that.
Is it normal that the voltage is a little lower there than directly at the battery?
I know by then it has travelled trough the circuit but the voltage at the battery was 12.6 and at the relais and fuel pump it was 10.8 or so.
The fuel filter has been replaced a year ago by the previous owner.
The mess under the intake as you call it, i replaced that almost immedeatly when i bought the car because there were some cracked hoses.
Thanks for the input Dave , tommorrow i'm gonna do a final test on the pump.
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Engine management / '91 318is - Suddenly won't start - Suggestions?
« on: May 12, 2010, 04:20:27 AM »Quote from: RED IS 91;92272
The bentley is incorrect 1280 is for the Camshaft position sensor.
haynes is correct 500-600 for the crank pos sensor.
good luck
Hmmm , stupid bentley then
I guess you're right, yesterday i grabbed my multimeter and measured both of the sensors and the readings were like this ,
Camshaft sensor; 1260 Ohms
Crankshaft sensor; 520 Ohms
So it looks like the sensors are OK.
So what's causing my car not to start..
My battery is good ,starter is good, ignitions are good, sensors are OK....
I must admit that the last time i turned the key i didn't heared the fuel pump.
I'm gonna check that , do i have some other options or is that about all?
Thanks for you're help RED IS 91.
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Member Profiles / Voodoo Child ; E30 318iS
« on: May 11, 2010, 10:36:46 AM »Quote from: greanthumb;92126
nice whip!
Thank you! I guess thats a compliment but what is a whip? Car? :confused:
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Engine management / '91 318is - Suddenly won't start - Suggestions?
« on: May 11, 2010, 10:26:56 AM »
I don't know if the problem is solved by the topicstarter but i have te same kind of problem.
The only difference is that i have a question about the resistance of the Crankshaft sensor.
My fuel pump relay is working but it won't give a signal to the fuel pump itself so my first thought was that the crankshaft sensor is broken.
I grabbed my multimeter and read it out. It gives out an resistance of 520 Ohm.
Now the confusion ive got ; The bentley(E36) manual says that the resistance should be 1280 ohm with a down/up of 10%. Looks like its broken then.
But then a couple days later i read the Haynes manual and it says it should be 500-600Ohm.
Can someone give me some feedback for this? The sensor is already ordered from Germany and should be here in a couple of days.
I live in the Netherlands,the Germans are our neighbours.
If it isnt the sensor i cannot bring it back to BMW, and it costs me about 135 euro's... thats about 150 dollars or more! :eek:
The only difference is that i have a question about the resistance of the Crankshaft sensor.
My fuel pump relay is working but it won't give a signal to the fuel pump itself so my first thought was that the crankshaft sensor is broken.
I grabbed my multimeter and read it out. It gives out an resistance of 520 Ohm.
Now the confusion ive got ; The bentley(E36) manual says that the resistance should be 1280 ohm with a down/up of 10%. Looks like its broken then.
But then a couple days later i read the Haynes manual and it says it should be 500-600Ohm.
Can someone give me some feedback for this? The sensor is already ordered from Germany and should be here in a couple of days.
I live in the Netherlands,the Germans are our neighbours.
If it isnt the sensor i cannot bring it back to BMW, and it costs me about 135 euro's... thats about 150 dollars or more! :eek:
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