Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Need a little help with ICV

« on: October 12, 2017, 05:04:00 PM »

Trying to troubleshoot an idle issue, so I'm starting first with the idle control valve.  I've searched and found the resistance test for the 3 pin version, but mine has only 2 pins.  What should the resistance reading be?

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / What's the pinacle of M42 development?

« on: August 02, 2017, 10:03:49 PM »

I bought my '91 M42 E30 4dr maybe 15 years ago for DD duties with future plans to transplant the eng/trans into an older, carburetored non-BMW non-OBD vehicle.  However, the E30 is still treating me well even with 250-300k on the odo (est).  Having just completed the installation of an E46 steering rack, I love love love driving this car and am reluctant now to dismember it.  I still want to put an M42 into the other car, but am shopping around for one now instead of offing the E30.

So, the question is, which cars had the most advanced versions of M42/44 technology?  Would like to keep it stock, not in the mood for crank swaps etc., but would be interested to know what bolt-ons bring improvement in case I should locate several different engines to choose from.

I already know about the timing chain idler sprocket (BTDT) and the M42 heads replace the less reliable M44's.  Priorities would be: 1.  Reliability 2. Ease of installation/integration, and 3. Torque/HP/driveability increase.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: 1991 318i losing power after startup.

« on: May 28, 2016, 09:32:38 PM »

Make sure the fuel supply/return connections aren't swapped.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: M44 Rear Crank Sensor with 91 M42 Electronics

« on: December 03, 2015, 08:55:51 PM »

I think I would go to a JY and get an M44 crank sensor socket (the female fitting) and an M42 crank sensor (bad is fine) and fabricate an "extension cord" if you will, so you can use a stock M44 sensor, but with the extension, plugs into the M42 socket. 

As an aside, may I ask what's driving the desire for this frankenmotor?  The M42 block is supposed to be superior to the M44 due to its forged internals.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Anyone done the M44 timing case swap?

« on: November 30, 2015, 11:20:28 PM »

My profile gasket was the same.  I wondered if it was ever replaced under the recall as it was obvious there was still coolant getting into the crankcase when I tore it down.  The m44 timing case gasket is metal and all one piece now, replacing the handful of m42 paper ones.  I bought the m44 metal gasket separately and used it instead of the paper ones that came in the head set.  I suggest pulling the head and building it all back up from the bottom, instead of trying that lubricated shim stock trick documented elsewhere.  I'm pretty sure that trying to slide the timing covers in with the head already installed is going to cause problems in the future.  The profile gasket is fidgety enough without the extra burden of having the head in the way.  If you pay attention, think logically and go slowly you can do it without the special alignment tools.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Diff shopping

« on: November 15, 2015, 10:28:45 PM »

So, I did locate a 3.15 diff from a late 2.8 5sp.  My E30 is bone stock 5 sp.  Would this be a practical choice or should I keep looking?

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Looking to buy e36M42 A/C compressor

« on: November 07, 2015, 09:17:00 PM »

Hmmm, that's a tough one.   Wait, here's a place, try this one: http://www.discountacparts.com/auto_air_conditioning_compressor.htm

Used?  Try www.car-part.com .

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Looking to buy e36M42 A/C compressor

« on: November 05, 2015, 09:39:54 PM »

Didn't have your exact year and model, but RealOEM shows Z3 compressors should fit.

9

Interior / Rear door won't open

« on: October 31, 2015, 02:21:44 PM »

It's been that way for a while, I figured it's about time I looked into it.  Driver side rear door appears the door is locked, but lifting the lock button has no affect.  I suspect it has become disconnected at the lock.  Power door locks work only on the front doors, not the rear.  Neither can I get either of the rear power windows to work.  I've removed the interior door opening lever on the stuck door and can reach the pull rod with a pair of pliers, but it does not budge.  Was hoping maybe I could put 12v to the proper wires at the connector inside the B pillar.  Anyone ever done that?  I'd hate to have to destroy the door card to get at it.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Diff shopping

« on: October 22, 2015, 09:33:26 PM »

Thanks Dave.  My 318i is running the original 4.10 LSD.  Would like to go a bit taller, I've heard 3.73 is a good ratio.  Most of the Z3 diffs I've seen are 3.45.  Would that be too much for a li'l ol' M42 to pull off the line?  I suspect the Torsen unit you speak of is taller still?

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Scratching/Grinding Sound below ~3k RPM - 1991 318i - VIDEO

« on: October 20, 2015, 09:33:37 PM »

I strongly encourage you to sort out the grinding noises before you start goosing the throttle up & down.  If your timing chain is slapping around in there, you are heading for a very expensive lesson in how to prioritize engine repairs.  It's very easy to skip a tooth if your chain is not tensioned properly.  If that happens and it skips the wrong way, start shopping for another engine.  Do what I suggested first, then figure out the throttle.  At this point, you are rearranging the deck chairs on the titanic.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Scratching/Grinding Sound below ~3k RPM - 1991 318i - VIDEO

« on: October 18, 2015, 09:46:20 PM »

First thing I would do is, remove all the belts and run it briefly to see if anything changed.  If the noise goes away, it's either the alternator, PS pump, water pump or viscous fan clutch.  If you still have the noise with no belts on, the next thing to check is the timing chain and tensioner.  I would drop the front oil pan and see if there are any chunks of plastic or metal.  If so, chain guides are bad.  If not, I would suspect a bad chain tensioner.  They are cheap enough ($30 ish) and an easy task.  It is located near the A/C compressor.  This might also explain the failed A/C clutch diagnosis.  Compressor is hard bolted to the block and may be telegraphing chain noise.

The "torque improvement" is probably just the second stage of the throttle body opening coincidentally with the decrease in grinding noise.  Don't let it distract you, most likely not related to your problem.  Sound change of the noise is probably due to oil thinning as it heats up.

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Engine + Driveline / Diff shopping

« on: October 17, 2015, 10:31:19 PM »

What's the rule for swapping diffs in an e30?  I think I read somewhere, any small or medium case but it must come from E30 or E36.  Can anyone verify that?  Are any diffs from other cars (Z3, E34, E46) easily swapped?

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Timing Chain Tensioner Woes

« on: October 17, 2015, 10:20:08 PM »

That is a design change; although, it was done some years ago and is shown in the Bentley manual directions.  That threaded barrel at the end is there to compensate for any differences between the block mounted lower timing case and the head mounted upper timing case.  Just torque the lower 3 bolts that hold the guide on and then adjust the barrel so that it just seats on the upper timing case.  Then insert the bolt and torque it down.  Loctite if you have any available, but not required AFAIK.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: Anyone done the M44 timing case swap?

« on: October 12, 2015, 09:45:47 PM »

Back on the road again after almost 2 years in the driveway.  Couldn't resist though, I built in a moderate timing advance (3 deg at the crank).  Engine is smooth as butter.