Messages

1

How-To's / Is there an online "how to" for rebuilding the rear?

« on: April 15, 2010, 11:52:09 PM »

no it does not take any special tools or equipment for a e36 rear end or many bmws.  its the easiest thing to fix on the dam car

2

How-To's / Main Crank Pulley

« on: March 03, 2010, 11:13:42 PM »

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10828   do not use loc tite!!! you will never get it back out!! the bolt will break if you use it!!!  it is a stretch bolt like cylinder heads, that is why it must be replaced when taken out. its 8 bucks from bma.  torque is 160fp to tighten. I use a block of wood most of the time to stop the breaker bar.  it may take a few trys with the starter  you got to go manually move it back to the breaker bar can pick up speed before stopping.   you dont need to take out radiator to do this either!!  22mm deepwell socket  is the crank bolt size  


when the motor is out of the car there is a hole under the intake where a screw driver or cam stops fit. there is a hole in the flywheel that it will slid in to and then you can crank away with a impact.  or use a flywheel tool and have someone hold it while you impact the shit out of it.   ive done it both ways a few times

standard thread!  again no loctite replace bolt! cant stress that enough!

3

How-To's / Is there an online "how to" for rebuilding the rear?

« on: March 03, 2010, 11:04:33 PM »

unbolt the axles e12 socket if i remember.  unbolt the rear end from the drive shaft and car pull out. then  there are either 4 or 6 bolts on each side where the axles go. un do them the ends slide out releasing the lsd or non lsd/aka the part with the ring gear.  pull out replace and re bolt new seals aren't a bad idea but not 100 necessary got to be the easiest rear end ive done cause there is no setting it up wrong. no using a micrometer just change the parts out. in my case i busted the section that had the bearings clean off. just changed out ring gears with one i got from the junk yard and  put it back together  my car is a e36

4

How-To's / Jacking Points

« on: March 03, 2010, 10:59:42 PM »

I have a e36 and a floor jack works fine for right there my car has been sitting on stands for months on those same spots.

5

How-To's / E36 M42 into E30.

« on: March 03, 2010, 10:57:31 PM »

same as reverse from upgrading a e36 from vbelt to serp. or from r12 to 134 replace needed parts, i know that doesnt help but real oem should give you a idea

6

How-To's / How do I change front crankseal?

« on: March 03, 2010, 10:48:18 PM »

in case it is your crank seal. step one find the hole under your intake that goes to your tranny put a screw driver in there turn motor till it slips in. this keeps the crank from turning. take off fan.  crank bolt is a 22mm deep well. it will take some force to get off.  or find a block of wood and use the starter to bust it loose" this is kinda more difficult and scary to do at first" ya got to pay attention to what your doing, a helper is ideal!  once the bolt is out the obviously take the belt off. and the balancer will slide straight off. then pop the old one out with a screwdriver or seal puller. be carefull not to scratch the timing case!!! then using a rubber mallet carfully tap the new one on find a larger socket deep well and tap it in a litte further till it stops.   "replace crank bolt"!!!  its 8 bucks from bma id order it with the seal.  If i remember you have to torque it to 160 lbs  or just as tight as you can get it. ive done it a bunch of times.  hook everything back up and your done.


ill explane the block of wood thing. remove your intake and set a 2x4 right on the frame rail  and with a breaker bar hooked up to the 22mm socket look where it will hit place the wood there and with the car jacked up go turn the key. wham.  then get out check it, turn it back and set the wood again. repeat  might take a bunch of trys but it will come off this way.  dont keep cranking on it  you got to get out and move it back so it can puck up speed before hitting the wood.   believe it or not this is something i learned working at the dealership haha. sounds getto but it works cause them bolts are in there!!

7

WTB/WTT / WTB clips and lower timing chain guard m42

« on: March 02, 2010, 05:48:58 PM »

I need a lower timing chain rail guard.  mine kinda crumbled in my hand. and the little clips that hold the plugs together (about 5 of em)  please pm me if you have either of these parts i would like to put my car back together soon so i can dodge pot holes haha.  or email me at createdfromchaos@gmail.com   thanks so much

8

WTB/WTT / WT Borrow: Cam-Lock tool near PDX or Seattle

« on: March 02, 2010, 05:44:57 PM »

you can turn the cams with vise grips. and set a straight edge across the rear part of the cams peril to the head. not hard to do at all. its actually faster than messing with the cam locks. thats what we do in the shop most of the time. then bolt your cam gears on make sure the indicator point is lined up. unless you are using adj cam gears then you prob know what your doing and dont need the advice you just asked for.

9

WTB/WTT / wtb rubber intake boot

« on: March 02, 2010, 05:40:06 PM »

ya i think i got a extra ill look in a bit and re post

10

Engine + Driveline / need help! timing chain gear question

« on: February 27, 2010, 11:32:26 AM »

ok I have a 92 E36 318 and my crank sprocket is way pointed. so i was looking at getting a new one and i went to realoem and noticed that there was 2 different ones. the first was after 94 and the other was pre 94. there was about a 40.00 price difference. is there any real difference between them ? like crank shaft size,# of teeth? etc.



 the part numbers are  11211717913   and 11211247338

11

For Sale / WTB wire clips/ retainer springs that hold the plugs on

« on: February 27, 2010, 11:24:15 AM »

ya the prob is the junk yard here yank the whole motors out and cut the harness with it. and ya nebraska weather sucks!!  my friend called em jesus clips, cause when you pop em off they go flying by and you say "jesus" haha thou i dont think that is the technical name for em. if you could email me a pic os i can see if they are the same clip deals createdfromchaos@gmail.com I need about 4 of em to be on the safe side. idk 5 bucks i can t imagine thay cost more than .50 I just need the little wire retainer not any plugs

12

For Sale / For sale, cool M42 parts!

« on: February 26, 2010, 07:23:43 PM »

need the little spring clips that hold the plugs together, if the crank sprocket is good/ (non pointed teeth) i need that also, and maybe a bolt or two that i missplaced.  let me know if you have those I need them asap so let me know pm me thanks

13

For Sale / Parting 2x 318is Motors

« on: February 26, 2010, 07:18:06 PM »

i need a good crank sprocket/gear  please email me a pic. I had the dealer order me one but if i can save a few bucks i will.  my email is createdfromchaos @ gmail (dot) com

14

For Sale / WTB wire clips/ retainer springs that hold the plugs on

« on: February 26, 2010, 07:14:41 PM »

I lost a few of those little wire deals that slip out of the plugs, like the ones on the sensors and on almost every plug in the engine bay.  I dropped a few and one or two went flying when i took them off so if you have a parts car or a few extra let me know what you want for em.  I tried real oem and looked for a part number to get em from the dealer but no luck so if you know that please post also.   thank.