Messages

1

Interior / cabin filter location and replacement?

« on: July 04, 2010, 11:10:44 AM »

I want to replace my cabin filter, as far as I can tell it's not down in the kick well areas like most of the other E36's. I remember coming across a reference at some stage to the filter being under the grill in front of the windscreen, but can't find any links to support this.

In other words I believe that this is the microfilter in my car:
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Coupe/Europe/318is-M42/RHD/M/1992/september/browse/heater_and_air_conditioning/microfiltre_microfiltrecover/

While the rectangular one that is accessible via the kick well areas is for cars with A/C. Mine is heater only.

Anyone got a link to a DIY so I'll have a chance to confirm my suspicions before removing the grill area?

2

Engine management / knock sensor replacement

« on: March 08, 2010, 04:44:18 PM »

Got an error code recently related to knock sensors and decided that while I was hunting down an idle problem which involved taking the upper inlet manifold off, I would see whether I could replace the front knock sensor without dismantling everything else. Hoping that's the problem one since it was more a general error about testing the knock sensors and the front one had a cracked cover.

Normally its considered that you need to remove the inlet manifold completely to get in there, but I've got the new one in place without doing that.
While it looks like its at the right angle (wire coming out is supposed to be at 70 degrees from vertical), its a little hard to judge. It seemed to me that the angle is pretty much about the only angle it could fit anyway with all the other parts around it.


So to the question, just how accurate does that angle have to be? Is a guesstimate that could be out by up to 5 degrees either way to extreme, or is it important to get it spot on (in which case I'll want to remove the lower inlet manifold as well). Or is the only reason for the angle so that if you had all the parts around it removed, you wouldn't be able to fit them back in place unless you put the knock sensor in with the correct angle on it.

3

Engine management / Vacuum tests

« on: February 19, 2010, 07:35:13 PM »

I thought that the bentley manual would have some details on what measurements you should get when testing the various vacuum lines on the car, but I can't seem to find any.

Anyone know what values I should be seeing, plan to test all the various lines tomorrow, so it would be useful to know what the specifications should be.

4

Engine management / what's needed to test fuel pressure?

« on: February 04, 2010, 09:04:12 AM »

Going to try testing the whole lot, fuel and vacuum lines.

Would the following be suitable?
Draper DVG1
http://www.paddystoolstore.ie/DVG1
http://www.draper.co.uk/catalogue/Pagesource-EU/p89.pdf

Or should I be going with something a little more heavy duty
http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360227823042&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

One advantage that I noticed with the draper tool is that it appears possible to check vacuum hoses with it as well. That would allow me to make sure that not only the hoses (which are relative new) are ok, but also all the other components in the vacuum system are working correctly.

Only concern with it would be whether the connectors are strong enough?

5

Engine management / what's needed to test fuel pressure?

« on: January 28, 2010, 08:41:28 AM »

Once warm the butterfly valve in the throttle body can be let go fully closed and car will idle fine, so I've assumed that this means the ICV must be doing it's job otherwise the engine would still die.

If the ICV was sticking I should be seeing an idle bounce. I do see one overshoot on braking and releasing the clutch into neutral quickly from a high rpm (~2500). But since it only occurs when a fast change occurs to the system I figure that it's unlikely that the ICV is the culprit.

Of course if someone can suggest a way in which the ICV could cause this without sticking randomly at other times, it would help me get my head around the idea.

6

Engine management / what's needed to test fuel pressure?

« on: January 27, 2010, 05:41:05 PM »

'93 318IS M42

Similar to the thread http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10405 I have a problem where I basically need to press the gas pedal when starting until the car warms up a little otherwise it dies.

Acquired an MT2500 snap-on scanner recently so I should be able to get some live readings from the oxygen and coolant sensors, don't know about the AFM temp sensor though. Since the car run's well once warm, don't think it's ICV related, and have fixed all vacuum leaks as well.


So the only part I won't be able to test is the fuel pressure.

No Schrader valve on the fuel rail for the M42, so I assume will have to put something together and hook it up in between fuel filter and rail or pump and filter to test if the pump is providing enough pressure in the system or if the filter managed to get clogged (<3000miles done since replacement).

Plenty of kits out there, but no idea as to what's actually required to be in the kit to be able to do this. Assume some people here have either put together one that's suitable of have bought a kit that has the necessary fittings. Suggestions?