Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Re: M42 Fuel Injectors

« on: November 05, 2014, 05:15:57 PM »

those of e bmw 540i m62 4.4l are a perfect for and 4 pinte with good clip slots

0280155823   0 280 155 823   EV 6      14.5   Heptan   350   162   150   214
0280150714   0 280 150 714   EV 1      15.9   Heptan   300   150   150   214

2

Engine + Driveline / Stock head gasket size

« on: February 20, 2013, 01:46:01 PM »

Does somebody know the compressed thickness? I think its around 1.45-1.50mm

3

General Topics / after 2 lower oil pans...

« on: February 01, 2013, 04:22:46 PM »

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Stahl-Olwanne-fur-alle-BMW-E30-4-Zylinder-Rallye-Cross-/120861552357?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item1c23e8eee5&_uhb=1#ht_1597wt_952

Next problem is the different thermal expansion, a guy here on e30.be had the problem of the thermal expansion, think he fixed it with silicone sealant. Gasket only wont cut it.

Other then that I think its a great idea. Maybe you could cut and tig-weld the original pan in the same way.

4

General Topics / after 2 lower oil pans...

« on: February 01, 2013, 04:21:31 PM »

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Stahl-Olwanne-fur-alle-BMW-E30-4-Zylinder-Rallye-Cross-/120861552357?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item1c23e8eee5&_uhb=1#ht_1597wt_952

Next problem is the different thermal expansion, a guy here on e30.be had the problem of the thermal expansion, think he fixed it with silicone sealant. Gasket only wont cut it.

Other then that I think its a great idea. Maybe you could cut and tig-weld the original pan in the same way.

5

Engine + Driveline / Car accelerates by itself / high idle

« on: January 31, 2013, 03:59:56 PM »

You checked everything I'd have looked at...the only other idea I have is to check the throttle cable.  They have a tendency to crack at the ferrule mount on the TB bracket and stick open a bit, especially when they're cold.

BMW issued a small steel clip to bind the cable and ferrule together even if they have broken.  I found one in the scrapyard in an '89 525i.

You got the part# of the small steel clip?

6

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / S50b32 psitons with M44 crank

« on: January 20, 2013, 09:50:21 AM »

Not per se, you can rev the engine to 10K with hydraulic lifters... but not with the stock ones ;-)
The problem with our lifters is that the oil can't go out fast enough, buy them/modify them with a larger exit hole and you are in honda rev zone

I'd love to have a high revving short stroke 2lt M42.. it would beat the honda b16/B18 engines for sure.

Hydraulic lifters to 10k? I wouldn't go over 7500 with the latem42/vw ones, which is already high.

Idk about drilling the lifters. if u starve the oil feed its a bigger mess.

7

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / S50b32 psitons with M44 crank

« on: January 16, 2013, 07:16:09 AM »

Whats the difference between s50b30 euro and us pistons?

They're just different, ch, wrist pin, dome, ..., same diameter. Im not home so cant acces the info.

Enjoy the mahle online catalog:
http://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.com/product_catalog/modules/motorComponent/specs/index.xhtml?subId=4

8

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / S50b32 psitons with M44 crank

« on: January 10, 2013, 07:58:53 AM »

You could find urself some s50b30us pistons, also wrist pin 22m.
CR 32.8
VT 0.52 and 3.11

s50b32us is 86.4mm but CR 31, so never high enough.

If you go through the hassle of pocketing and decking pistons w new rings, why not bore to 86mm? Its an extra cost of about €300, the rings are also more expensive. That would make a great short stroke high revving, with your itbs and assymetric cam profiles. A dream come true :p

Also the M3 pistons are forged, so lighter, designed for the job and less weakened by pocketing and decking. That makes for all forged internals (drool)

Your next limitation must be the hydraulic lifters.

Congrats with the family expension, a future m42 enthousiast

9

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / S50b32 psitons with M44 crank

« on: January 09, 2013, 05:54:43 PM »

Sounds good!

Im keeping mine real simple... Just going to swap in m50tub25 pistons.

Have you already done this?

Doesnt the piston slap the valves? Because the M50TUB25 piston with lowest compression height has cr: 32.55

This gives a piston that sits (32.55-31.65)=0.9mm higher. Standard deck height is 0.15 above.  This makes about 1.05mm above deck hight.

The head gasket is 1.75mm compressed, giving you only 0.7mm to spare.

The valve pockets from the M50TUB25 are 0.87 and 2.24. If u subtract 0.9mm from these pockets. U get 0(+.03) and 1.34mm. Comparing this to the standard m42 pockets of 1.65 and 1.85. So thats seems like a recipe for disaster. If you want higher CR, that asks for higher duration, higher lift cam...

10

Engine + Driveline / 86mm Head gasket

« on: November 09, 2012, 02:31:18 PM »

For peace of mind, you could shave the pistons -0.15mm below deck.

11

Engine + Driveline / no oil pressure help!

« on: July 28, 2012, 08:00:12 AM »

So it was the stuck pressure release valve, she purrs again like a kitten. this can be helpfull for others.

12

Engine + Driveline / no oil pressure help!

« on: July 27, 2012, 02:35:14 PM »

I think it was stuck somewhere in the middle. When hammering I felt it going deeper. To get it out, I gently hamered a steel bar for concrete in it and pulled it out all together. Wasn't great fan of drilling with metal flakes flying around in the engine, it was the backup solution.

I'll remember to take a picture of the faulty valve, since I have no working camera atm. There was a mark where it got stuck.
It was indeed the metal plunger and sleeve, which is remarkable because it's a timing case from an 318ti.

The replacement plunger and sleeve were from plastic and are now in. Hope that's the last of the oil debacle. still need to put lower pan on.

grts

13

Engine + Driveline / no oil pressure help!

« on: July 27, 2012, 10:56:37 AM »

Great news! I found the pressure release valve is stuck, so problem solved I guess

Now only have to find a way to get it out, suggestions?

14

Engine + Driveline / no oil pressure help!

« on: July 27, 2012, 07:42:26 AM »

Did you have the whole timing case removed from the motor? If so, was this scratch in the circular oil pump cover on the back? Or was this scratch in the main timing case casting, in the front where the pump gears are? Maybe it is actually a crack in the timing case around the pump gears. It could happen if a small piece of debris was sucked into the pump (which did happen to me once, although the entire oil pump housing exploded very obviously).

Well, I assembled the engine a couple weeks ago but after working fine for a day, it stopped working the next one.

So I took the timing case off. I found some scratches in the circular part of the pump, cover and timing case itself. This didnt look that bad as it sounds. But I had a better pump lying around so that's in there now. I'm pretty sure the case isn't cracked. I cleaned it again and found no traces of cracking.

Just went to pick up new release valve and gaskets from stealer so hopefully it'll work tonight. I'm gonna put a little bit of grease in the pickup line so the pump can suck better.

I saw that oil pump massacre, trying to avoid that . It's already the second timing case, don't fancy a third one.

Would it help to install a new oil filter? it has run about 100km or so.

Thanks for the support, this rly is a great forum.

15

Engine + Driveline / no oil pressure help!

« on: July 23, 2012, 11:01:08 AM »

Yes I removed the cover. There was a small scratch in the surface of the timing case but rly small. Can this be the cause, it rly was a minor scratch? The gears turned smooth in each other.

Could there be another reason why the pump doesnt suck oil, other then a faulty pressure release valve or leaking gasket (which i doubt)