Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Re: M42 whining noise

« on: June 18, 2024, 05:14:53 PM »

FINALY Somene with the same problem as me!, I have that whine for about a year now, it came when i had someone change my valve lifters and crankshaft half moon pieces (cant remember the name in english), but i dont think they come from the lifters or the thingies on the crankshaft, as they messed with the chain also, so probably something was thingtned too far?, have changed oil 2 times and there where never metal sheds or anything like that.

2

Engine + Driveline / Re: Way to simplify the DISA Valve??

« on: February 01, 2021, 03:08:05 PM »

i cant belive it, i went to the garage and swaped the bottom one from the oil and the middle one for the gauge to make sure it wasn't bad connections as you sayd, and guess what you where right, I cant belive why I haven't tried this sooner and that means that this diagram is wrong? or is my m42 a special delivery hahaha
btw, here is an update to the thingy I'm trying to do with the DISA valve, testing some alignment for the servo motor
https://streamable.com/9rs2tu

3

Engine + Driveline / Re: Way to simplify the DISA Valve??

« on: February 01, 2021, 02:32:46 PM »

I think not, ill check that tomorrow its late here now,
But I don't think I have them swaped, there are 3, one only has 1 wire, that is for the temp gauge and connects to the first sensor, the one more in the middle, about the other 2 one of them as a blue rubber inside, that's supposed to be the ECU and connects to the other one, and the last one connects to the oil thing.
Right?
Btw forgot to mention, even tho it has 12v in the connector , having it plugged or unplugged makes no difference on what shows on the gauge, Im starting to think that it is something betwin that 12v and the gauge  but I don't know what goes in the middle, because the wire doesn't go directly to the cluster right?

4

Engine + Driveline / Re: Way to simplify the DISA Valve??

« on: February 01, 2021, 03:55:16 AM »

Heyy!, since i already have this thread i didnt want to do a new one, I am making progress on the "conversion" but it took so long to get the thing I needed from ebay
I am now working on it and will keep this thread updated, but I have run into a super mysterious problem that I need to fix.
For some reason, only taking the intake manifold out, (and unplugging the 2 temperature wires and the oil one) and putting it back together made my temp gauge not work anymore.
Here are all the thing I have tested

For context (and after some research) "gauge temp sensor" is the one more in the middle, that only has 1 pin/wire.
 
-There is a 12v signal on the tip of the connector for the gauge temp sensor
-I assume the ECU temp sensor works fine since the car starts cold without an issue
-Gauge temp sensor is fine (tested it)
-Gauge itself is fine (mounted in another car and worked well)
-If I unplug the battery, wait a few minutes and put it back, the gauge reads full MAX, and keeps there, but if I start the car, after about 30 seconds it starts falling to COLD and after about 5 second its on full COLD and from there, it will never move again, even if I turn of the car and wait a day, the next day it will be on full COLD and doesn't move, only if I unplug the battery, wait a few minutes and put it back again, then it reads full MAX again.

This is driving me crazy
 

5

Engine + Driveline / Re: Way to simplify the DISA Valve??

« on: December 01, 2020, 12:06:05 AM »

Didn't know it was possible through pin1, I already have that made, as I said I already have an ECU I made that controls the original ECU, doing things like launch control, the nice thing of having it controlled by another ECU is that I can change the launch control rpm in real-time or set a more delayed cut or something, here is a little video of it https://streamable.com/or3et4

I pushed a wire from the Cluster itself, and in order to read it I didn't to the normal "see pulses in a second, x 60 / 2" to get the current RPM, to have a faster read I have this algorithm

-12v Pulse comes into the ECU
-ECU starts a microsecond timer (timeLapsed)
-12v Pulse comes into the ECU
-ECU stops timer (timeLapsed)
RPM =   20000000(for 6cyl) / timeLapsed(microseconds)
RPM =   20080000(for 4cyl) / timeLapsed(microseconds) - I don't have the exact number here but its an 8 in the middle

This way we have the "current RPM" value each pulse.

There is a way of reading it by counting pulses but it's slower (isn't it?)

Tomorrow I will see what ill do about the DISA Valve

6

Engine + Driveline / Re: Way to simplify the DISA Valve??

« on: November 30, 2020, 12:10:59 AM »

You are probably right, I was saying 5secs just for the example, a hysteresis would be much better.
I will see what I'll do, and post news here if I remember.
Thanks for the suggestions and opinions

7

Engine + Driveline / Re: Way to simplify the DISA Valve??

« on: November 29, 2020, 07:54:56 PM »

Hi! 
First of all, thanks for your reply

I have been reading more info about it and I got a more detailed version of when it opens and closes, and it is at 4800RPM, and yeah I have read about it being like so so it doesn't open and closes multiple times in a short time, even tho that is a nice reason they made it like that it is still possible to code with that in mind, like "when we send the signal to open or close, set a 5sec timer, only after that timer the valve can open or close again"

About contacting them to see if it's possible to have it delivered fast, I have already contacted them, and the only way is to pay 30$ for the shipping (noope!)

I'm still thinking about it but I think I will order a servo motor (like 2$ max) and code one and see where it takes me.

I'm still open to any reply!

8

Engine + Driveline / Way to simplify the DISA Valve??

« on: November 29, 2020, 11:38:59 AM »

Hi everyone!

Its been a while I don't come here but recently I discovered that my DISA Valve membrane was bad (a literal 2cm cut in it) and I can only find the exact membrane selling in Russia, and it can take up to APRIL to get here in Portugal, the one I am talking about is this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182430442539

I read a lot about the DISA valve in the m42 engines and all the membrane does (and DISA in general) is close the valve after 4000RPM, right?

So supposedly the membrane and the hole DISA thing can be replaced by a little servo motor (basically a thing that does the movement the membrane does) that opens and closes the valve after reading the engine current RPM no?

I already have a side ECU I made reading the engine RPM and other stuff, I can simply attach a servo motor where the membrane is and make it change the valve position inside the intake after 4000RPM right?

I'm getting a little repetitive but I really don't understand why BMW didnt do this instead of relying on rubber.
Maybe I'm missing something but I wanted your opinion on this.

I attached a DISA diagram, the membrane is in the corner of point 7, that little straight bar goes back and forward based on the vacuum inside the intake, when the membrane is broken it is always in the same position as there is no vacuum created. That's the thing I'm saying that can be replaced with a servo motor to open and close the valve inside the intake.

Thanks in advice to all of you

9

Electrical / Re: Temperature sensor problem

« on: November 29, 2020, 11:12:39 AM »

Well, didnt come here in a while but i figured it was a bad ground conection working fine since then

10

Electrical / Temperature sensor problem

« on: June 14, 2019, 07:16:16 AM »

Hi!

So i had to remove the intake manifold on my m42 to change some coolant tubes.

I removed all the 3 sensor conectors and kept them in order , i mounted all again but now my temperature gauge doesnt even move a single bit.
When the car is working after like 10 secounds the needle jumps to full hot in about 3 secounds.

I didnt even touched the temp sensors so i guess they are fine cause it was working properly before the car stoped.

I didnt mounted the MAF but i guess it doesnt make it not work

I did changed my car batery too but its one equal to the one it had.

Its and e36 and iv done the gauge test and all works fine.

Thanks in advice

11

Electrical / Re: BOSH ECU REMAPING

« on: January 19, 2019, 03:47:27 PM »

I only have the standard BMW 20pin connector. Im in EU btw.

12

Electrical / Re: BOSH ECU REMAPING

« on: January 18, 2019, 11:43:55 PM »

yee i was thinking about the chip burn too, i already have an aftermarket chip for the DME and it does the job , actualy increased a lot of my power on low RPMs.
mine is a dme i forgot to say too.

the video i was talking about was this one ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FdoUqCwcO4 ) about the live maping , i dont know how he done it so xD.

can you sujest me any chip burner? since i dont have one, and i dont wanna get one that is sh*t

Thanks for the reply btw

13

Electrical / BOSH ECU REMAPING

« on: January 18, 2019, 12:31:18 PM »

Hi

i woud like to know if there is any thread on anything related to remaping the bosh ECU m42 , i only find videos and stuff for the siemens ms42 ECU.
Based on a video i saw it is possible and it is even possible to remap in real time with the car running.

If some one could help me i would apreciate so mutch.
i already have 2 cables:

BMW 20 pin to OBD2
and
OBD2 K-Line KWP2000 ISO9141 ( FTDI FT232RL VAG COM KKL 409.1 ) to USB

i know the principals of dumping the BIN from an siemens ECU, but i cant find anything for the BOSH ECUs.

Maybe it is only possible by reading from the fisical chip inside the ECU? Since they sell too mutch and i assume inside the chip are all the maps.