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For Sale / Re: New Guide Rails for sale
« on: February 22, 2017, 01:27:11 AM »
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For Sale / Re: 1991 White 318is for sale. Oklahoma City $3500
« on: February 03, 2017, 11:52:31 AM »
I just happened to relist it. https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/5979506301.html
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For Sale / New Guide Rails for sale
« on: December 13, 2016, 11:58:01 PM »
I have 2 Guide rails for sale, 1 was mistake I ordered the newer style for M44 type case that does not use the idler sprocket, 2 pics of this one. The long rail that has the tag on it I had lost in boxes of parts in storage and had to finish my motor so I ordered another new one. Then got to clean out storage months later & found the first one I had bought to rebuild a different M42 from 3 years ago.
PM if interested.
Update 1/28/17 , the left side rail has been sold.
PM if interested.
Update 1/28/17 , the left side rail has been sold.
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WTB/WTT / WTB Glove box w/latch.
« on: November 27, 2016, 10:33:39 PM »
Need a clean glove box with latch. Shipping to Oklahoma City, 73107.
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For Sale / Re: 1991 White 318is for sale. Oklahoma City $3500
« on: November 27, 2016, 10:32:21 PM »
No did not sell it. Only 1 person came to look at it & he was from Texas. I may try again soon. There is another one in Oklahoma on craigslist that is priced near $5000, and it has not sold. It has nicer appearance, but no details about actual maintenance etc... Here is pic of the Jade Green 02. It has a layer of dust on it here. It is a garage queen. Still needs suspension rehab. It's was an automatic, but I put a 5 speed in. Just got the AC charged a month ago & verified it doesn't leak, and cools very well. I'm trying to thin the heard & buy a Toyota Sienna Mini Van. Wish I could keep em all, but reality says I can't afford 4 vehicles. I may re-list the 318is again.
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For Sale / SOLD: 1991 White 318is for sale. Oklahoma City
« on: August 25, 2016, 12:14:12 AM »
Just posted this on Craigslist OKC. I have a 2002 I need to spend a bit more time & money on, and an E28 that I like as a daily driver. The E30 is fun, but I can't justify keeping it anymore. Have given it attention to mechanical and electrical issues, but not much for cosmetic or bodywork. Pictures are from a few months ago, not much has changed. Just did new rear brake rotors & pads last weekend.
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/5749339747.html
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/5749339747.html
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Engine + Driveline / Re: Lower chain case install reassembly advice needed.
« on: May 30, 2016, 12:18:09 AM »
So about 4 weeks from start to finish. 
About 2 of those weeks for the machine shop to do their part. I've had plenty of M10 experience, with regards to pulling cylinder heads & taking to machine shop or just pulling head & replacing gasket etc... Did it once on an M20. Both M10 & M20 have much simpler front timing case of course. So to me, the M42 is much more to deal with in that area. 
Plus I had to account for time to pull upper pan again to install a gasket, as I had removed it before right after I got the car & just used silicone to make a gasket. I didn't get fancy & clean the intake or valve cover & paint them like some do, but did spend a lot of time cleaning grease/oil from external covers. Replaced the O ring on the oil filter housing, replaced the oil pump regulator/valve thing, whatever it's called with the updated plastic version. Made sure to prime the oil pump & verify I was getting oil to the head before putting valve cover on & installing plugs. Closer examination of my profile gasket shows it was deteriorated in a few areas. Head was warped but not cracked. I did not go for the thicker headgasket, 10 thou taken off of head, no valve guides/seats or valves needed to be replaced. Near the end I cheated & used just ultra grey for top front timing cover. Did not want to wait on another parts order. So far so good. Now back to my list of things to do for this car before it started pushing water out with pressure from the combustion chamber. 
It never mixed oil/water. Would idle on the driveway for 30 minutes & not loose water. But if I drove it around, it could loose water within 20 minutes or so. At times you could see the pulse of the motor idle pushing out of the radiator with the cap off. So I think combination of head warp and profile gasket leaking a bit or maybe just head warp let it pressurize the cooling system so bad it pushed out water. Here is video of it's first start, you can certainly hear the clank from the valvetrain until the oil pumps up the lifters.
http://content.jwplatform.com/players/FcJgCcI4-o0vxPD1I.html
About 2 of those weeks for the machine shop to do their part. I've had plenty of M10 experience, with regards to pulling cylinder heads & taking to machine shop or just pulling head & replacing gasket etc... Did it once on an M20. Both M10 & M20 have much simpler front timing case of course. So to me, the M42 is much more to deal with in that area. Plus I had to account for time to pull upper pan again to install a gasket, as I had removed it before right after I got the car & just used silicone to make a gasket. I didn't get fancy & clean the intake or valve cover & paint them like some do, but did spend a lot of time cleaning grease/oil from external covers. Replaced the O ring on the oil filter housing, replaced the oil pump regulator/valve thing, whatever it's called with the updated plastic version. Made sure to prime the oil pump & verify I was getting oil to the head before putting valve cover on & installing plugs. Closer examination of my profile gasket shows it was deteriorated in a few areas. Head was warped but not cracked. I did not go for the thicker headgasket, 10 thou taken off of head, no valve guides/seats or valves needed to be replaced. Near the end I cheated & used just ultra grey for top front timing cover. Did not want to wait on another parts order. So far so good. Now back to my list of things to do for this car before it started pushing water out with pressure from the combustion chamber. It never mixed oil/water. Would idle on the driveway for 30 minutes & not loose water. But if I drove it around, it could loose water within 20 minutes or so. At times you could see the pulse of the motor idle pushing out of the radiator with the cap off. So I think combination of head warp and profile gasket leaking a bit or maybe just head warp let it pressurize the cooling system so bad it pushed out water. Here is video of it's first start, you can certainly hear the clank from the valvetrain until the oil pumps up the lifters. http://content.jwplatform.com/players/FcJgCcI4-o0vxPD1I.html
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Engine + Driveline / Re: Lower chain case install reassembly advice needed.
« on: May 25, 2016, 05:13:52 PM »
Part did not change, I just figured out I ordered the M44 part So I have the correct guide rail on the way. Doh !
So I have the correct guide rail on the way. Doh !
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Engine management / Re: Pic id needed/request
« on: May 25, 2016, 01:51:06 AM »
Here you go.
ICV mounts at back side of intake manifold, near the firewall.
Evap purge valve has about 3 to 4" of hose connecting to the charcoal cannister & has 1 electrical plug & another hose going somewhere. I'm not sure it is actually mounted, think
it just is supported by hoses, but I could be wrong, maybe a clip is holding a hose & supposed to be there ?
ICV mounts at back side of intake manifold, near the firewall.
Evap purge valve has about 3 to 4" of hose connecting to the charcoal cannister & has 1 electrical plug & another hose going somewhere. I'm not sure it is actually mounted, think
it just is supported by hoses, but I could be wrong, maybe a clip is holding a hose & supposed to be there ?
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Engine + Driveline / Re: Lower chain case install reassembly advice needed.
« on: May 24, 2016, 09:19:55 PM »
OK thanks. Now my next issue. I now realize the new passenger side guide rail has a bigger pivot bolt than what the original did. On realOEM, they list the same part # on earliest M42 to later M42 that uses the newer timing cover. Part # 11311721322 If I order that #, I should get the newer bigger pivot bolt, correct ?
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Engine + Driveline / Lower chain case install reassembly advice needed.
« on: May 18, 2016, 10:18:26 PM »
My love/hate relationship with this E30 continues. Had a problem with head or headgasket, so pulled the head to find head was warped. About 6 thousands between 1,2, 2,3, 3,4. Just got it back from machine shop. They took 10 thousandths off, no cracks in head. This is my second M42 to tear down this far, but only my first to put back together. Previous experience was mostly M10's from many 2002's I've owned & 1 M20 from a 528e I had. IMO, the M42 in this E30 is more of a PITA, at least the front cover/chain case. Broke 2 exhaust manifold studs on this car & the one before, just removing the exhaust. So this car got 4 new exhaust studs. Thought the broken studs would be pain to remove, but with a vise & a hack saw & a drill, they came out rather quickly. Which was sorta fun, gave me excuse to get out the mig welder, that I've barely used since buying it 10 years ago. Then I thought maybe I'd not remove the lower chain case, but decided since I had the gasket set, better to do so than not. Now I'm realizing when I pulled the upper pan a few years ago, I just used gray permatex to make a gasket instead of using a factory gasket. I thought I was ready to reinstall the lower chain case, but realized the permatex gasket would be an issue, not likely I'll get a good seal since the case has to slide in on top of the upper pan. So now I'm getting ready to drop the pan again & this time will use a gasket instead of just permatex ultra gray. I have one other lower case I bought for the other car, before hail storm totally wrecked the body. I wasn't smart enough to get the later style case without the idler sprocket then. So I am comparing the two after cleaning up the lower case. They both have a bit of corrosion around the profile gasket area. I'm guessing this is somewhat normal for a 150K to 200K motor ? My main question, besides advice on re-assembly do's & dont's: Is permatex gray or non hardening blue hylomar around that rectangle area in the center a good idea on both sides of the profile gasket or just on the lower chain case side ? It appears there was a yellowish sealer of some kind in this area when I pulled the motor apart under the gasket. This zoomed in pic makes it look a bit worse than it is, there is still a ledge all the way around, just those 2 areas near red lines are lower.
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General Topics / Ebay injectors: watch out
« on: September 24, 2015, 01:32:30 PM »
I got burned on a set of 4 listed as compatible with 91 318is, ford injectors for mustang. These are too short by 1/8". So they won't fit in tight. No clip slots either. Socaljunking is the ebay seller who I got these from. I'm now not getting any response when I send ebay message to get the right injector. Got an automated reply out till 23rd. Now on the 24th I get another message that he/she is out again. So it's easy way for him to say, well it's been more than 14 days. Duh, cuz your "out" not answering emails.
Gotta love ebay. You get burned every now & then. Avoid this seller: Socaljunking.
Gotta love ebay. You get burned every now & then. Avoid this seller: Socaljunking.
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General Topics / PGW glass or URO seal, which one is wrong size ?
« on: June 20, 2015, 10:42:38 PM »
Before I remove my cracked windshield to replace it, I wanted to make sure my new URO brand seal would fit the new PGW made in China glass.
It doesn't. Either the URO seal is inch to long, or the glass is too small.
Anyone have experience with either of these ?
It doesn't. Either the URO seal is inch to long, or the glass is too small.
Anyone have experience with either of these ?
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For Sale / FS: Intake valves 7mm size 11341722908
« on: June 19, 2015, 09:01:35 PM »
I have 8 intake valves for sale, I think I got these through Blunt. Been a few years & I'm cleaning out unused new parts I'll likely never use. I had my first 318is then when I bought these & gasket sets etc... to rebuild the top end, then major hail storm totalled that car before the head went to machine shop. Part # 11341722908 Two are opened in the box, the other 6 are still sealed in plastic or paper in the box. $60 for 8 valves plus shipping. In Oklahoma City for local pickup.
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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: e46 into e30 Steering Rack Swap
« on: May 05, 2015, 12:54:00 AM »
Great, I'm in no hurry, although it's taken forever for me to get this swap done, I have to get a new battery & new tires for the E30 before I can really assess the new rack. My daily is my E28, but as soon as the E30 is back on the road, I'll get to address a few issues on the E28 I've been putting off.