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Messages - tmorinbmw

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Engine + Driveline / Heater hose in-line thermostat?
« on: January 04, 2010, 03:32:18 PM »
Quote from: Joe Gilmore;76926
Okay, that helps a lot.  Apparently on my car somebody switched the short heater hose and the long heater hose in the past.  Putting the short heater hose on the T-fitting essentially disabled the aux thermostat, since a thermostatically controlled flow that flows back into the same line has no effect.  It makes much more sense that the small-diameter hose carries that flow into the long heater hose line.

But we still don't know why the thermostat is there, what effect it has, and how to verify that it's working correctly!  Anyone?

Mine is a 1984 533i with a '92 535i drivetrain, E32 brakes, and M5 swaybars.  I can't turn loose of it.  When I die, maybe.  Unless I can greymarket it into heaven or (more likely) hell.


I'm having problems with the heat in my car aswell... not sure if I have the auxiliary theremostat connected properly. I DO know that they're installed by BMW dealers as a recall due to possible heater core leakage on your leg as your driving.

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General Topics / 22 mpg? Why?
« on: October 03, 2006, 07:49:51 AM »
I've taken plenty of e30's apart and know for a fact that the odometer and speedometer don't work individualy, not supposed to anyway. If there are decrepencies between the two then check the white plastic gears that drive the two. Over time they grow brittle and loose teeth resulting in miss-readings and not functioning all together.

They're replacable, check Bavauto or someplace like that.

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Electrical / In all my past experiences with BMW's....
« on: October 01, 2006, 05:57:23 PM »
the starter exciter wire has been B/Y (black with yellow stripe). So that being said and according to my factory wiring manual for a '90 325i/is, fuse 11 (7.5 amp) is terminal 87 on the fuel pump relay (green and violet wire) which when turned on thru the ECU and main relay is provided power by the 1.5 mm red wire at the battery junction block which is on the fusible link wire not the battery cable. You could have a corroded fusible link causing voltage drop.

Just my two cents, good luck!

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