Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Creeps like an automatic at idle

« on: July 29, 2010, 10:21:16 PM »

Sounds not right...like the clutch isn't fully engaging or disengaging.  Is the clutch slave bled properly?  It might also be hung up on some leftover grit in the bore.  Did you hone or clean up the piston & bore?

I replaced the slave cylinder.  I pressure bled the clutch.  The pedal feels firm.  I read a lot of threads on various forums tonight.  The only person with the same problem was letting their foot rest on the clutch pedal when driving.  I was doing the same.  Is that a no-no?  

Is it possible that the tip of my pushrod missed the hole and is resting on the lips around the hole?  I'm speaking about my clutch of course.  From what I read, if you miss the divot in the clutch, the pushrod is ejected from the cylinder when you press the pedal.

2

Engine + Driveline / Creeps like an automatic at idle

« on: July 29, 2010, 07:49:39 PM »

Hey,

I rebuilt or replaced the calipers and parking brakes.  Before that the car needed a lot of revs to get it moving and was easy to stall.  My wheels turn much easier now.  I also replaced the clutch slave cylinder because there was resistance before the clutch engaged.  I found the slave heavily corroded.

Now the car is much easier to get moving, but when I give it gas the engine sounds just like it's revving in neutral.  There is some correlation between engine revs and speed, but not like there should be.  Also, the car creeps forward in 1st gear if I take my foot of the gas pedal just like an automatic does.  Is that normal?

Thanks for any help!

3

General Topics / RealOEM.com Supplement Jibberish

« on: June 09, 2010, 05:53:08 PM »

I found out the ZNNIV is the finish.  So is ZNS.  So the alphabet soup after the dash is the finish.  Does anyone know someone who works for a BMW stealership or an independent shop?  There may be a list of the BMW standards.

Are there any situations in which I can't use a stainless steel fastener?

4

Engine + Driveline / Cleaning Intake Valves - Hands ON

« on: June 09, 2010, 05:47:19 PM »

Seafoam would because it's drawn in by engine vacuum from the brake booster hose.  I've never heard anyone question the effectiveness of Seafoam.  In fact, all the gunk it blows out your exhaust is known to kill O2 sensors and mine is new.

5

General Topics / RealOEM.com Supplement Jibberish

« on: June 08, 2010, 06:32:14 PM »

Basically it's an M6 hex nut with a flange. Dig a little harder fella:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-flange-nuts/=7g2t8t

Scroll down on the left to M6 and youre sorted.

They're common as muck so you shouldnt have trouble finding them elsewhere too.

I think they are assymetric, too.  The point is not whether I can find a nut that will work.  The point is, I don't know what AM6-8-ZNNIV means.  I'm not looking for a fish, I'm looking to learn to fish...

6

WTB/WTT / Negative / Ground Battery Cable

« on: June 07, 2010, 07:23:49 PM »

I'm looking for part #1 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=12_0361&hg=12&fg=29

7

Engine + Driveline / M42 Lower exhaust manifold flange- studs or what?

« on: June 07, 2010, 07:01:41 PM »

On my 1991 318is, those "bolts" were tack welded onto the flange.  I used a dremel with the gyros cut-off wheels (i think 1.5").  The gyros wheels work so much better than the standard stuff.  I then replaced them with grade 8 bolts with lock washers.

8

Engine management / Vacuum tests

« on: June 07, 2010, 06:56:05 PM »

The manual that came with my mightyvac hand vacuum pump went into a lot of detail on how to interpret vacuum readings/fluctuations.  I also found info in the Bentley e36

9

Engine + Driveline / Cleaning Intake Valves - Hands ON

« on: June 07, 2010, 06:51:30 PM »

If you use Rotella syn, Mobil one syn, or Syntec, The engine will not have any crap inside it anywhere, for ever.  Regardless or miles. . MM

I thought the deposits on intake valves are fuel-related.  You're telling me that the engine oil is responsible?

10

General Topics / RealOEM.com Supplement Jibberish

« on: June 07, 2010, 06:47:06 PM »

That's a really good site for finding a variety of fasteners.  I'm sure I could find a AM6-ZNS there if I knew what it is.  I did a search and got zero hits.  I suppose all of you are just as clueless as I.  That difference is I'm mad as hell and not gonna take it anymore!

11

Engine + Driveline / Cleaning Intake Valves - Hands ON

« on: June 03, 2010, 08:46:03 PM »

So I've picked up the theme that I should let a detergent/solvent/cleaner do the work.  That leaves me with two options (1) apply directly to intake valves, or (2) add to gasoline regularly.

It's tempting to apply directly, because the product is localized to the effected area.  But on the other hand, if I don't aspirate the solvent, it will be washing through the cylinders.  Granted, I've already washed a few ounces of mineral spirits through, but some of the lubro-moly stuff is potent.

I don't know what to do.  I've never opened an engine before, but two friends that have say the intake valves are heavily gunked.

I'm not sure about the engine flush.  The valve train and what I can see of the engine block are gunk free.  They don't appear to need cleaning.

12

General Topics / RealOEM.com Supplement Jibberish

« on: June 03, 2010, 10:04:13 AM »

Does anyone else get really frustrated looking at realoem.com for fasteners?  

I'd like to add fasteners to my bigger orders online when shipping is free.  But the selection is usually sparse.  Even pelicanparts.com typically omits fasteners from the "related" section of its parts information.

The other option is to pick up the equivalent fasteners at a hardware store.  So I'll print out this page http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=13_0578&hg=13&fg=15 and take it to my local hardware store.  When I ask them if they have any AM6-8-ZNNIV hex nuts with plates, they look at me like I have three heads and just threw up on their shoes.  I know what they're thinking, "we don't have Ford or GM owners coming in for these fancy-smancy overly complicated BMW parts."

Is there some reference sheet that explains these abbreviations.  I know the basics, such as an m6x12 bolt has m6 threading and is 12mm long.  I know that abbreviation, because it conforms to the accepted convention.  I hate this proprietary alphabet soup b.s.  Fuck-z3 you-znniv BMW-z1-zn!

And now I'm calm....

13

Engine + Driveline / gasket sealant

« on: June 02, 2010, 08:39:18 PM »

Is this the stuff?  I should use this in addition to the gasket, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81724-12PK-Multipurpose-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B001REZ81O

Thanks!

14

Engine + Driveline / gasket sealant

« on: June 02, 2010, 06:00:40 PM »

I've got a lower oil pan bolt broken off flush with the upper oil pan.  I'm not having any luck removing the bolt, so I'm going to postpone removing it until I can drive it to a friend.  In the mean time, I want to replace the lower pan gasket.  I imagine the best way to install the new gasket would be with a gasket sealant surrounding the broken bolt.  Any recommendation for this specific use?  Thanks!

15

Engine + Driveline / Cleaning Intake Valves - Hands ON

« on: June 02, 2010, 05:53:59 PM »

You would stand a good chance of scratching the valve sealing face. Leave it alone.
  Run some Techron thru it. Maybe carb cleaner siting  in the holes, blow it out the next day.  I would avoid the heat thing..
 VW had a recall that used  walnut shells blasted into the back of the open valves. Vacuum out of the plug hole, blow it out , etc.  Worked.
 MM

When you say run techron through it, you mean by adding it to the gas tank, right?  I'm installing the mustang injectors recommended on this forum.  I kinda feel that if I run techron enough to clean the valves, I might be damaging the fuel injectors.  I look into the car cleaner.