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Exterior / 318is Badges
« on: December 02, 2011, 12:26:09 PM »
I've got some in pretty decent shape i could ship you. pm me.
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General Topics / Locked Out
« on: October 10, 2011, 09:28:29 PM »
^ your diy is good btw.
I did mine a while back, haven't installed it yet. Mine was working ok, but I did it anyway. Its one of those little things that you didn't realize how bad yours was until you replace it. new ones feels like butta.
I did mine a while back, haven't installed it yet. Mine was working ok, but I did it anyway. Its one of those little things that you didn't realize how bad yours was until you replace it. new ones feels like butta.
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Exterior / A Wild Thought...Swap the roof for another one..
« on: September 19, 2011, 01:54:24 PM »
Seriously man, people buy slicktop skins and weld in panels and stuff just to make their E30 a slicktop. Enjoy the factory goodness or swap it out to someone who will enjoy it.
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Interior / Molded dash cover?
« on: September 05, 2011, 02:53:10 PM »
I highly recommend using 303 on your dash. I did some testing(non scientific though it was).
I picked a crack on my old dash and liberally treated one side with 303 and let it sit(note: this is not normal usage), wiped it down later, then added more. Repeated several times. Afterwards I was able to easily crack the untreated side with minimal force. The treated side I was pushing so hard i was afraid it would deform the whole area before it cracked.
303 does not advertise to put the spring back in your vinyl, but it does!
I picked a crack on my old dash and liberally treated one side with 303 and let it sit(note: this is not normal usage), wiped it down later, then added more. Repeated several times. Afterwards I was able to easily crack the untreated side with minimal force. The treated side I was pushing so hard i was afraid it would deform the whole area before it cracked.
303 does not advertise to put the spring back in your vinyl, but it does!
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Exterior / Who has a Diamantschwarz E30?
« on: September 05, 2011, 02:50:02 PM »
Freshest DSM you'll ever see! It was barely even dry :-p
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Exterior / Restoring faded paint - help
« on: September 05, 2011, 02:47:35 PM »
My car was in similar shape. I spent a bit of time hand polishing(I don't have a buffer) but the clearcoat was thin and it had a lot of scratches, so it got a respray anyway). Still, just a bit of cheap polish worked some major wonders on it. Note: I was using meguiars, not the as seen on tv stuff in the pic.
For testing I wet sanded then compounded and polished a bit on the top. Giggidy
For testing I wet sanded then compounded and polished a bit on the top. Giggidy
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How-To's / DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« on: February 21, 2011, 10:54:10 AM »
Just a few thoughts on my shifter refresh.
It has been mentioned that you really don't need all of the parts listed. Here is my personal short list of what you do need/want:
shifter of your choice
1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER
2x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3- updated design, much better than stock
1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC - this is actually the foam insert for the rod joint
4x 25111220439- yellow shim washer
You really shouldn't need to buy the rod joint, which has jumped in price to upwards of 30 bucks. If you do feel the need, buy the MTM one as well as the foam insert listed above. it costs <20 bucks. If you buy anything for this area, buy the foam insert. If you are careful you should not need the retaining bush for the rod joints pin(pn 25111203682 ).
Just my .02 to save you a few bucks and get the most out of it.
It has been mentioned that you really don't need all of the parts listed. Here is my personal short list of what you do need/want:
shifter of your choice
1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER
2x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3- updated design, much better than stock
1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC - this is actually the foam insert for the rod joint
4x 25111220439- yellow shim washer
You really shouldn't need to buy the rod joint, which has jumped in price to upwards of 30 bucks. If you do feel the need, buy the MTM one as well as the foam insert listed above. it costs <20 bucks. If you buy anything for this area, buy the foam insert. If you are careful you should not need the retaining bush for the rod joints pin(pn 25111203682 ).
Just my .02 to save you a few bucks and get the most out of it.
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Suspension / Camber Plates
« on: January 18, 2011, 08:39:06 PM »
I've been doing a bit of reading on camber plates. The GC's are pretty good but depending on the spring you're running and if you notch the shock tower you may not get full negative camber. A lot, but if you're wanting to track seriously, maybe not enough.
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Engine + Driveline / Anyone know where this hose connects?
« on: January 18, 2011, 08:35:18 PM »
Not sure if this is it or not, but to expound on what was being said:
Upper heater core hose goes to the plastic coolant tube
Lower one goes to the back of the head
There was a recall in the early 90's where they installed a bypass between the upper and lower hoses. All it involves is a small pressure triggered cutoff valve in the lower line and a small hose running to a T in the upper hose. If the end of that little hose goes to anything connected directly into your lower heater hose, you've got a bingo. Likely someone replaced the upper hose and went wtf is this? and just left it loose. So in the event of a failure in your heater core, you would dump coolant down the back of your motor rather than just having it circulate back through!
Upper heater core hose goes to the plastic coolant tube
Lower one goes to the back of the head
There was a recall in the early 90's where they installed a bypass between the upper and lower hoses. All it involves is a small pressure triggered cutoff valve in the lower line and a small hose running to a T in the upper hose. If the end of that little hose goes to anything connected directly into your lower heater hose, you've got a bingo. Likely someone replaced the upper hose and went wtf is this? and just left it loose. So in the event of a failure in your heater core, you would dump coolant down the back of your motor rather than just having it circulate back through!
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Engine + Driveline / Can I get by without a head rebuild?
« on: January 18, 2011, 08:31:35 PM »
I wouldn't be adverse to doing the seals and lapping the valves myself. Clean the head throughly, remove the valves and lap each one, have it all checked for wear/cracks, resurface and go for it.
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General Topics / Help me asses the condition of my timing components
« on: October 15, 2010, 02:27:44 PM »Quote from: RED IS 91;96585
I had this in my pan and I've put 3000 miles on since then.
Yikes.
I found nothing in my oil pan...and i've gotten to put three miles on it since then! :rolleyes:
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General Topics / Stuck Wheel Bolts
« on: October 13, 2010, 09:42:09 AM »
Bolt wise you're just going to have to apply more force. Spray em to death then use a cheater bar.
The wheels themselves will be fun too.- My car is rust free and my fronts were still a pain. Do what dave said there.
The wheels themselves will be fun too.- My car is rust free and my fronts were still a pain. Do what dave said there.
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General Topics / mpg improvement with another diff?
« on: October 12, 2010, 10:57:16 AM »
To a point- lower the better. 3.73 is the easiest choice.
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General Topics / New 318is owner
« on: October 11, 2010, 10:45:52 PM »
240 carries maybe 20 more hp stock and weighs pretty close. S13 hatch is a little lighter than an S14 as well . I was running 11.1:1 comp, cams, intake, exhaust, porting, and what not in my ka. That nissan drivetrain is actually pretty darn durable considering. Its a truck engine retuned for a car, girdled main cap, piston cooling jets, etc and the trans can take 450hp(same trans different case as the SR's if I recall). Not too shabby!
But yea, i'll take the E30 any day! :-D
But yea, i'll take the E30 any day! :-D
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General Topics / New 318is owner
« on: October 11, 2010, 04:08:49 PM »
yup not too uncommon, but a bit moreso for an is.
After driving that semi-race prepped nissan for the past year or so as my toy I'm really enjoying getting back to the way the E30 talks to you and how light the 318 is, even compared to the nissan. My nissan weighed in at 2375 sopping wet and had upwards of 200hp at the wheels. So for now the 318 is nowhere as quick, but its more enjoyable to drive and one day i'll up the power with a 24v swap or a rebuild/turbo.
The E30 trumps it on style and comfort too :p
After driving that semi-race prepped nissan for the past year or so as my toy I'm really enjoying getting back to the way the E30 talks to you and how light the 318 is, even compared to the nissan. My nissan weighed in at 2375 sopping wet and had upwards of 200hp at the wheels. So for now the 318 is nowhere as quick, but its more enjoyable to drive and one day i'll up the power with a 24v swap or a rebuild/turbo.
The E30 trumps it on style and comfort too :p
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