Messages

1

Electrical / ABS Light On

« on: May 30, 2011, 05:23:57 AM »

Hi guys, during starting of my car I saw the ABS light come on and stay on. (Should go out after self-test) Anyways I diagnosed the problem as being a faulty ABS Main Relay. I am wondering do I need to get the fault cleared by BMW or will fitting the new relay clear the light?

Thanks.

2

Engine + Driveline / custom CAI heat shield

« on: November 01, 2010, 04:01:37 AM »

Looks pretty good to me. You gonna put a removal cover on top like ECIS style?

3

Engine + Driveline / M3 3.2 6speed gearbox to an M42

« on: October 29, 2010, 09:49:42 PM »

I found a E46 SMG box for 600 EUR...but it is stuck in some gear, not sure about the fix.. a sequential gearbox would be cool imo (a bit overdone in a 16year old E36)

Don't get a SMG gearbox - too problematic. Trust me. and every part too expensive.

4

Engine + Driveline / M3 3.2 6speed gearbox to an M42

« on: October 27, 2010, 03:53:52 AM »

I'd get a custom driveshaft made up.

5

Engine + Driveline / Oxygen sensor control

« on: October 19, 2010, 03:34:24 AM »

Isn't there a relay that controls the oxygen sensor on an E30 M42? It could just very well be an oxy sensor. They are actually a maintance item according to the E36 Bentley manual.

6

Engine + Driveline / M44 front panel oil leak

« on: October 18, 2010, 04:54:52 AM »

I would get this:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_ENGman_pg6.htm

This part no. 11-14-1-439-570-M104

7

Engine + Driveline / M44 front panel oil leak

« on: October 15, 2010, 07:40:37 PM »

No, if only replacing the crank seal then don't remove the timing covers.

8

Engine + Driveline / M44 front panel oil leak

« on: October 15, 2010, 04:15:21 AM »

That would be your front crankshaft seal in most cases but there are a few gaskets around that area as well. If your going to replace the timing cover gaskets replace the crank seal as well.

Not a hard fix.
1. Remove drive belt and crankshaft pulley.

2. Then lock the crank at TDC using the flywheel or an 8mm drill bit, loosen the crank bolt and remove the crankshaft hub that sits behind the pulley. Once this is off you will see a round seal that sits in the lower timing cover.

3. Use a seal puller or screwdriver and carefully remove it. Clean the inner surface of the timing cover where the seal was.

4. Apply some oil or CRC to the outer diameter of the new seal and guide the seal in carefully. You can use a socket and hammer to gently tap the seal into place. Guide it in until the seal is flush with timing cover surface. Take note of this before removing the seal. Also the seal has a unique spring around the inside of the seal to help it seal against the walls of both the timing cover and the crank hub. That's why it is important to ensure you are careful when fitting it.

5. Then refit your crank hub and use a new crankshaft bolt (recommended). With the crank locked in place tighten the the hub with the new bolt. (Make sure it is tight).

6. Refit crankshaft pulley and drive belt.

9

Engine + Driveline / Rear end noise

« on: October 14, 2010, 03:54:36 AM »

No mate didn't do the bushings. I'm not planning on keeping the car much longer. Proberbly till Jan 2011. It's done 238,000km.

10

Engine + Driveline / Rear end noise

« on: October 13, 2010, 05:07:18 AM »

Problem fixed - the RHR wheel bearing was completely shot. The trailing arm side of the bearing had the ball bearings exposed and the grease had come out. Replaced with a new bearing and all is good. Note: I removed the entire trailing arm and used a hydraulic press.

11

Engine + Driveline / When I give it gas at low RPM I get misfiring

« on: October 12, 2010, 03:53:51 AM »

Have checked the spark plug leads or ignition coils?

12

Engine + Driveline / Removing 22mm harmonic balancer bolt

« on: October 12, 2010, 03:52:19 AM »

You need to prevent the crank from turning. I was able to loosen my crank bolt with ease using the flywheel pin. Otherwise remove the starter and place a pry bar against the ring gear and engine block to counter it.

13

Engine + Driveline / Rear end noise

« on: October 11, 2010, 05:07:04 AM »

Thanks DesktopDave. I'm gonna start with the RHR wheel bearing and then go from there.

14

Engine + Driveline / Rear end noise

« on: October 08, 2010, 11:31:34 PM »

Hi guys, I've got a E36 318is (everything stock)

I've got an on going problem where I have a very annoying rumbling/whirring noise from the right hand rear side of the car and it is directly linked to wheel rotation. I have recently fitted new wheels & tyres as the old ones were gone. The noise is still present. At first I thought maybe one the wheels or tyres was out of round because the noise seems tyre related. Clearly that ain't the case.

I'm thinking either the RHR wheel bearing is gone or the diff is noisy. (Mind you I have never heard a noisy diff so this is just an assumption) In the lower spectrum of vehicle speed the noise sounds like a noisy tyre or wheel bearing but as the speed increases it sounds like the wheel is thumping the ground. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

15

Engine + Driveline / problem with ac bracket

« on: October 05, 2010, 01:43:42 AM »

Right, I've been checking out RealOEM and have found that the A/C bracket used on all E36 vehicles whether it be an M42 or M44 in a 318is is the same part number. But I believe there are 2x different branded compressors. (One is a Denso - earlier, the other is Seiko - later).

Can you post a picture of this. Check how the A/C bracket is mounted on the side of the block. You might possibly have the wrong crankshaft pulley. Not the vibration damper itself but the accessory drive belt pulley that bolts in front of it. There are I believe 3 different variations of this system.