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For Sale / Re: FS Metric Mechanic pulse chamber intake manfold
« on: August 14, 2018, 08:00:19 AM »
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General Topics / M42 and m44 engine differences *** urgent help please
« on: December 09, 2012, 09:36:23 PM »
And??
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: November 22, 2012, 06:37:55 PM »
It seems that the best way to REMOVE the crank bolt is also by using the crank holder tool (in combination with a breaker bar or impact wrench).
I inferred it from this post on the lexus owners club forum: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/43090-ls400-40l-v8-requires-crank-pulley-holding-tool/page__st__15#entry276163
I inferred it from this post on the lexus owners club forum: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/43090-ls400-40l-v8-requires-crank-pulley-holding-tool/page__st__15#entry276163
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For Sale / UK Restored Rust free E30 Touring polybushed shell m42 318is
« on: August 01, 2012, 10:26:30 PM »
I would pick this up if I were anywhere near local!
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: July 04, 2012, 08:08:05 AM »
IIRC, the picture was showing him torquing a head bolt which would explain the 2-to-3 o'clock pull. It would be difficult to pull with constant force beyond 3 o'clock since your wrist will start to bend - unless, I think, of course you're using the left hand.
So if the bolt you're fastening will require vertical final torquing, like the crank bolt, does this still apply? I would think 3 o'clock (or slightly just above it) would be my starting point since it's the easiest way to put all of your weight on it.
So if the bolt you're fastening will require vertical final torquing, like the crank bolt, does this still apply? I would think 3 o'clock (or slightly just above it) would be my starting point since it's the easiest way to put all of your weight on it.
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: July 03, 2012, 07:49:51 PM »
The link isn't active anymore but here's a copy http://web.archive.org/web/20080506104118/http://www.mondello.com/Pages/Articles/1/1.htm
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: July 03, 2012, 11:05:32 AM »
dhirsch, thanks and I also found your old post. I wish I saw that before I got the crank holder tool.
So for tightening the crank bolt, I will use the method described by bmwman91: crank holder tool + torque wrench to prevent loading the main bearings which was my original goal.
I've read that torque wrenches are recommended to be pulled/pushed from 2 o'clock to 3 o'clock (30 degrees of travel). Anyone subscribe to this?
So for tightening the crank bolt, I will use the method described by bmwman91: crank holder tool + torque wrench to prevent loading the main bearings which was my original goal.
I've read that torque wrenches are recommended to be pulled/pushed from 2 o'clock to 3 o'clock (30 degrees of travel). Anyone subscribe to this?
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: July 02, 2012, 11:06:37 AM »
Ok I get it now. I always figured that the pulley and harmonic balancer / vibration damper were secured by the crank bolt. Doh!
Clearly, they aren't because they're bolted to the hub. Doh!
Thanks for clearing that up, bmwman91. I imagine I'll be pulling against the crank holder tool while I push the torque wrench with my foot!
The engine is off the car so I'll be using an impact wrench to remove it. I've seen what you described re the starter to remove the crank bolt.
Clearly, they aren't because they're bolted to the hub. Doh!
Thanks for clearing that up, bmwman91. I imagine I'll be pulling against the crank holder tool while I push the torque wrench with my foot!
The engine is off the car so I'll be using an impact wrench to remove it. I've seen what you described re the starter to remove the crank bolt.
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: July 02, 2012, 08:48:34 AM »
I think I'm understanding what you're saying but could you make it more concrete with a drawing?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=11_1521&hg=11&fg=18
For the life of me I can't figure out where the crank holder tool needs to be in the diagram above.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=11_1521&hg=11&fg=18
For the life of me I can't figure out where the crank holder tool needs to be in the diagram above.
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: July 01, 2012, 03:50:53 PM »
bmwman91, the video shows the crank was locked via a hammer handle being jammed up against the crank. He did say there were many ways of locking the crank.
My thinking on the impact wrench is that it doesn't load the crank with a weight that is far from the axis of rotation if that makes any sense. The only thing is that you need to be sure the impact wrench doesn't deliver more than 250 lb-ft of torque.
DesktopDave, which crank locking tool are you referring to - the flywheel locking tool or the crank counter holder tool (http://www.SamstagSales.com/bmw/bmw88886112150.jpg)?
If it's the latter, I can imagine that the crank counter holder tool would allow you to apply more torque using a torque wrench and prevent (in theory) any force from being exerted on the front main bearings. I imagine that the crank counter holder tool would need to be at 90 degrees or less so you can push/pull on it while pulling/pushing the torque wrench if that makes sense.
My thinking on the impact wrench is that it doesn't load the crank with a weight that is far from the axis of rotation if that makes any sense. The only thing is that you need to be sure the impact wrench doesn't deliver more than 250 lb-ft of torque.
DesktopDave, which crank locking tool are you referring to - the flywheel locking tool or the crank counter holder tool (http://www.SamstagSales.com/bmw/bmw88886112150.jpg)?
If it's the latter, I can imagine that the crank counter holder tool would allow you to apply more torque using a torque wrench and prevent (in theory) any force from being exerted on the front main bearings. I imagine that the crank counter holder tool would need to be at 90 degrees or less so you can push/pull on it while pulling/pushing the torque wrench if that makes sense.
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Engine + Driveline / Best way to torque the crank bolt
« on: July 01, 2012, 03:58:09 AM »
Hey guys,
After watching this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex_yJ_V5UH8, I could not help but wonder if the process hurts the main bearings at all when the crank bolt on the m42 is torqued to spec using a torque wrench with a really long handle or extension.
Yes, the video is about the harmonic damper install on a v8 but it got me thinking about the main bearings on our engines.
Anyone use an impact or a torque multiplier? I feel that's the safest since *I imagine* the crank doesn't flex too much so the front main bearings don't get "pressed" on (however so slightly) vs using a torque wrench with a long handle. The problem with using an impact, of course, is that you won't know what the tightening torque was.
Am I just over thinking it since the forces generated during engine operation, especially at high rpm, might well exceed 253 ft-lbs of force being acted on the bearings. But then you could argue that the oil under pressure provides a hydrodynamic barrier.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
After watching this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex_yJ_V5UH8, I could not help but wonder if the process hurts the main bearings at all when the crank bolt on the m42 is torqued to spec using a torque wrench with a really long handle or extension.
Yes, the video is about the harmonic damper install on a v8 but it got me thinking about the main bearings on our engines.
Anyone use an impact or a torque multiplier? I feel that's the safest since *I imagine* the crank doesn't flex too much so the front main bearings don't get "pressed" on (however so slightly) vs using a torque wrench with a long handle. The problem with using an impact, of course, is that you won't know what the tightening torque was.
Am I just over thinking it since the forces generated during engine operation, especially at high rpm, might well exceed 253 ft-lbs of force being acted on the bearings. But then you could argue that the oil under pressure provides a hydrodynamic barrier.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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For Sale / eBay M44 DASC W/ ECU FS
« on: June 16, 2012, 09:12:12 AM »
No affiliation: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130713649375
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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / e36 318is turbo/throttle bodis
« on: April 29, 2012, 02:30:46 AM »
Dyno sheets yet?