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Engine management / Re: NA M42 base maps
« on: February 05, 2017, 08:37:04 PM »
Scratch that, I have found a Bosch part number, now I just have to find a local supplier.
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Engine management / Re: NA M42 base maps
« on: February 05, 2017, 08:22:14 PM »
So, having gotten this car running I had left it at that for a bit as I was prepping a different car for some track fun.
I returned to this car just seriously enough to start roughing out a tune and to get it idling and free revving properly. Check, no problem, but now and again the car would just stop. It would not do it often enough to start tracking it down.
Roll forward to the weekend just gone and I go to start it to fiddle, no fire! Dead fuel pump. Locked up solid by the sound of it. All I get is a little "Clonk" from within the tank. Pulling the connector and powering it directly with a batter in both forward and reversed wiring, no difference. Seems it has seized.
Does anyone have a part number handy for a pump for one of these (E36 318is with M42 engine) as a replacement for the pump only rather than a complete replacement of the pump and fuel sender assembly?
I returned to this car just seriously enough to start roughing out a tune and to get it idling and free revving properly. Check, no problem, but now and again the car would just stop. It would not do it often enough to start tracking it down.
Roll forward to the weekend just gone and I go to start it to fiddle, no fire! Dead fuel pump. Locked up solid by the sound of it. All I get is a little "Clonk" from within the tank. Pulling the connector and powering it directly with a batter in both forward and reversed wiring, no difference. Seems it has seized.
Does anyone have a part number handy for a pump for one of these (E36 318is with M42 engine) as a replacement for the pump only rather than a complete replacement of the pump and fuel sender assembly?
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Engine management / Re: NA M42 base maps
« on: January 08, 2017, 03:53:17 AM »
I had completely lost track of this thread. The car put itself on the backburner for quite a while due to giving me hell getting it running which turned out to be coil wiring related. I went to a set of Chev LS1 coils and had almost the same problem. It would fire then the ignition would go haywire with random sparks and the trigger diagnostics going nuts.
Turned out to be a dud wiring diagram which indicated to ground the coils (Both pins, there are two on LS1) to chassis ground. I moved the aux ground ground to the ECU sensor ground and suddenly the trigger is stable and ignition is like it should be. Ten minutes of work with roughing in a tune and it is like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcsw4tWXbNg
Turned out to be a dud wiring diagram which indicated to ground the coils (Both pins, there are two on LS1) to chassis ground. I moved the aux ground ground to the ECU sensor ground and suddenly the trigger is stable and ignition is like it should be. Ten minutes of work with roughing in a tune and it is like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcsw4tWXbNg
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Engine management / E36 M42 limp home modes.
« on: August 25, 2016, 05:49:34 AM »
Hey all, I thought this was better in a seperate thread to my trigger issues thread.
I am still fighting with the car to try to get it to run with my E11 Haltech, I just can not get it to trigger properly. It is so close to running that it is not funny but just won't run.
The problem I am having is trigger related. I can get stable triggering and timing at cranking speeds but as soon as I enable the injectors and try to start it it fires, bangs and crackles and pops and dies. I got my wife to help me tonight by cranking it while i put the timing light on for thew second or two it would run and the timing is jumping all over the place.
I know that the M42 would go into limp home mode with a failed cam position sensor and go to wasted spark and batch fire on the injectors and still run, but where they clever enough to get them to run at all with the cam sensor alone and a failed crank sensor? Before we removed the stock DME it was running very poorly, it would start and then flood and stall when you cranked it. If you then pulled out the fuel pump fuse it would crank and start and if you were quick enough getting the fuse back in it would idle normally but had no power at all. If they managed to make them run off the cam sensor only then it might explain things.
If anyone knows if they managed that then I would be prepared to chance my arm on a new sensor, otherwise it is just more money blown. Even changing to a custom sensor is difficult due to the configuration of the crank pulley. If it was a simpler arrangement there I would have converted it to a 12 tooth wheel and hall effect sensor weeks ago.
I am still fighting with the car to try to get it to run with my E11 Haltech, I just can not get it to trigger properly. It is so close to running that it is not funny but just won't run.
The problem I am having is trigger related. I can get stable triggering and timing at cranking speeds but as soon as I enable the injectors and try to start it it fires, bangs and crackles and pops and dies. I got my wife to help me tonight by cranking it while i put the timing light on for thew second or two it would run and the timing is jumping all over the place.
I know that the M42 would go into limp home mode with a failed cam position sensor and go to wasted spark and batch fire on the injectors and still run, but where they clever enough to get them to run at all with the cam sensor alone and a failed crank sensor? Before we removed the stock DME it was running very poorly, it would start and then flood and stall when you cranked it. If you then pulled out the fuel pump fuse it would crank and start and if you were quick enough getting the fuse back in it would idle normally but had no power at all. If they managed to make them run off the cam sensor only then it might explain things.
If anyone knows if they managed that then I would be prepared to chance my arm on a new sensor, otherwise it is just more money blown. Even changing to a custom sensor is difficult due to the configuration of the crank pulley. If it was a simpler arrangement there I would have converted it to a 12 tooth wheel and hall effect sensor weeks ago.
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Engine management / Re: E36 M42 trigger wiring
« on: August 04, 2016, 06:54:32 PM »
I have been chatting with Haltech, firstly they reckon the coils should work OK and weak spark is usually a case of wrong polarity (I wired it matching BMW) too little charge time (I ramped it up to silly charge times at one point without seeing any difference) or sometimes wrong edge setting (I can not recall if I tried both there, something for tomorrow)
My other issue, they have recommended staying with the VR sensor as they reckon that the BMW 60-2 wheel works poorly with hall effect sensors, and that the count between triggers alternating 57-117 is normal. I can not find the logic in that in how he put it in the email but I will take it as read that it is normal. The count being down from what I expected by one is because the trigger counter starts from zero at the first trigger so that is normal too.
My other issue, they have recommended staying with the VR sensor as they reckon that the BMW 60-2 wheel works poorly with hall effect sensors, and that the count between triggers alternating 57-117 is normal. I can not find the logic in that in how he put it in the email but I will take it as read that it is normal. The count being down from what I expected by one is because the trigger counter starts from zero at the first trigger so that is normal too.
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Engine management / Re: E36 M42 trigger wiring
« on: July 24, 2016, 07:30:55 PM »
I am currently at a bit of a standstill with this car. As I have posted elsewhere I am having some issues with the crank trigger, it is doing some really strange things when I look at the ECU logs, by what I can tell I should see either 58 (Maybe 59, I don't know if the Haltech will see the missing teeth as a single tooth) triggers between home events, or 116 (or 118) if the home count is to the cam trigger.
When cranking, depending on settings in the ECU I either get 255 (Indicating it is not getting a home) or alternating between 57 and 117!
Has anyone using aftermarket management used a hall effect trigger on one of these with the original 60-2 wheel on the crank? I am looking to get away from the VR sensor if I can. I have found some options, including the high speed version of the Honeywell GT101DC (The standard one will not trigger fast enough for a 60 tooth wheel at high revs) of a holley one. Getting a niice clean square wave ito the ECU would eliminate a lot of trigger issues.
When cranking, depending on settings in the ECU I either get 255 (Indicating it is not getting a home) or alternating between 57 and 117!
Has anyone using aftermarket management used a hall effect trigger on one of these with the original 60-2 wheel on the crank? I am looking to get away from the VR sensor if I can. I have found some options, including the high speed version of the Honeywell GT101DC (The standard one will not trigger fast enough for a 60 tooth wheel at high revs) of a holley one. Getting a niice clean square wave ito the ECU would eliminate a lot of trigger issues.
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Engine management / Re: Help with wiring a haltech e6k m42 turbo
« on: July 21, 2016, 05:00:08 PM »
As far as I am aware, the Huco is a direct replacement for the Bosch nut i my case I get no or very weak and inconsistent spark with the factory BMW coils. If I put my timing light inductive clamp over the coil primary wires between the driver and the coils I get consistent flashign in time with the compression strokes as expected, but if I then to to the plug leads (Which I metered out to make sure they have not broken down) nothing.
I test wired an old Bosch HEC716 I had from another project onto one of the coil connectors and that produced spark. I am just in a bit of a bind at the moment, the cost is relatively close between fitting 4 X Bosch HEC715 coils (The 716 is not available in that style any more and the 715 would use the same plug leads as the factory coils) or 4 X LS1 Chev V8 coils which include inbuilt igniters.
I test wired an old Bosch HEC716 I had from another project onto one of the coil connectors and that produced spark. I am just in a bit of a bind at the moment, the cost is relatively close between fitting 4 X Bosch HEC715 coils (The 716 is not available in that style any more and the 715 would use the same plug leads as the factory coils) or 4 X LS1 Chev V8 coils which include inbuilt igniters.
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Engine management / Re: Help with wiring a haltech e6k m42 turbo
« on: July 19, 2016, 06:17:19 AM »
A word of warning that you are likely to run into the same problem I just did. It appears that the BMW OEM coils require a higher drive current than the Haltech/Huco drivers limit to. New coils are probably on the agenda to match the non OEM driver.
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Engine management / Re: NA M42 base maps
« on: July 19, 2016, 05:43:34 AM »
As an update for anyone interested. The problem has turned out to be the cars factory coils. The drive current required must be much higher than the Haltech branded driver (Huco I think) limits to. I put the timing light over the coil primary leads out of the driver and got nice regular flashes in time with each compression stroke. Put it on a spark plug lead and nothing. I bodgy wired a HEC17 coil to one of the connectors and cranked it abd BOOM.... Spark!
Project is on the backburner for a couple of weeks now as we have borrowed a car for the event it was being prepped for. The temptation is there to buy more connectors, cable, new coils ETC but I just don't have time to make it work. We lost a month trying to source a replacement cylinder head when the "Honest" owners failed to mention the water use (Three nice big cracks, the ferals must have boiled it stupid) and the time lost was just too much to overcome.
Project is on the backburner for a couple of weeks now as we have borrowed a car for the event it was being prepped for. The temptation is there to buy more connectors, cable, new coils ETC but I just don't have time to make it work. We lost a month trying to source a replacement cylinder head when the "Honest" owners failed to mention the water use (Three nice big cracks, the ferals must have boiled it stupid) and the time lost was just too much to overcome.
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Engine management / Re: NA M42 base maps
« on: July 18, 2016, 08:22:11 PM »
No good news to report on this little project yet.
I am having major issues getting the triggering to work, sometimes it appears OK and I get all keen, then without changing settings it stops triggering properly and I stop getting ignition pulses. I am getting some curious trigger diagnostic readings. By my working I should see 118 trigger events between homes (Crank pulses versus cam pulses) but my ECU trigger diagnostics alternated between 57 and 117! I can't figure that bit out. With ho I have wired the sensors I should be using rising edge triggering but if I set that I get no triggers at all.
I am considering rebuilding my ECU setup from scratch with a new base map file and ignore everything but the triggers until and unless I get them sorted reliably (I will have to pull out the spark plugs, I am eating my available batteries every day in about 20 minutes and then that is that for the day while I recharge them)
There has been a fair bit of temptation to set fire to this thing in the last few days. I have just thought of a possible issue now which might be messing things up but it would be poor ECU firmware is that is the case. The car the ECU was last used in had hall effect triggers and I had to use the internal pull up resistors. That option is not available in reluctor mode, but maybe they stay enabled unless I disable them in hall effect mode before setting reluctor mode and are messing up my signals.
I am having major issues getting the triggering to work, sometimes it appears OK and I get all keen, then without changing settings it stops triggering properly and I stop getting ignition pulses. I am getting some curious trigger diagnostic readings. By my working I should see 118 trigger events between homes (Crank pulses versus cam pulses) but my ECU trigger diagnostics alternated between 57 and 117! I can't figure that bit out. With ho I have wired the sensors I should be using rising edge triggering but if I set that I get no triggers at all.
I am considering rebuilding my ECU setup from scratch with a new base map file and ignore everything but the triggers until and unless I get them sorted reliably (I will have to pull out the spark plugs, I am eating my available batteries every day in about 20 minutes and then that is that for the day while I recharge them)
There has been a fair bit of temptation to set fire to this thing in the last few days. I have just thought of a possible issue now which might be messing things up but it would be poor ECU firmware is that is the case. The car the ECU was last used in had hall effect triggers and I had to use the internal pull up resistors. That option is not available in reluctor mode, but maybe they stay enabled unless I disable them in hall effect mode before setting reluctor mode and are messing up my signals.
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Engine management / Re: NA M42 base maps
« on: July 17, 2016, 08:34:28 PM »
Ta, though the fuel mapping is difficult to compare. looks like the factory used VE based tuning for the fuel.
Had the car nearly started yesterday. Very close in fact, but flooded it out while trying to work out some kinks (Some mapping oddities while getting it running meant that it was heavily over fuelling, running to around 7ms injector times when cranking where at idle I would expect 2ms or less. the injectors are for a six cylinder engine but if you divide it out they would be for a 2.5L four or so)
The biggest kink though is getting the timing right. After nearly 20 years of faithful service last night was when my timing light decided to pack it in, before I would work out the proper tooth offset. I saw 114 degrees mentioned on this forum as the offset from the missed teeth but the few flashes I got before the light stopped working (With the ECU timing locked to TDC) looked like around 18 degrees. I have to play around again tonight once I get my new timing light and work out the offset that works. I also need to get my oscilloscope on it to check that I have the trigger slope set correctly. Looking at the post here http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18999.0 I might need to change to triggering to the rising edge as I have used the yellow wire for the signal to my ECU from both triggers. That might explain the timing mismatch too.
It should start at 18 degrees advance so I will probably lock at 18 next time to work on the timing, three teeth from the TDC mark is easy enough to count and it would be lucky to run at TDC and with messy mapping too.
Hopefully I can report back success and have it at least starting and idling tonight.
Had the car nearly started yesterday. Very close in fact, but flooded it out while trying to work out some kinks (Some mapping oddities while getting it running meant that it was heavily over fuelling, running to around 7ms injector times when cranking where at idle I would expect 2ms or less. the injectors are for a six cylinder engine but if you divide it out they would be for a 2.5L four or so)
The biggest kink though is getting the timing right. After nearly 20 years of faithful service last night was when my timing light decided to pack it in, before I would work out the proper tooth offset. I saw 114 degrees mentioned on this forum as the offset from the missed teeth but the few flashes I got before the light stopped working (With the ECU timing locked to TDC) looked like around 18 degrees. I have to play around again tonight once I get my new timing light and work out the offset that works. I also need to get my oscilloscope on it to check that I have the trigger slope set correctly. Looking at the post here http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18999.0 I might need to change to triggering to the rising edge as I have used the yellow wire for the signal to my ECU from both triggers. That might explain the timing mismatch too.
It should start at 18 degrees advance so I will probably lock at 18 next time to work on the timing, three teeth from the TDC mark is easy enough to count and it would be lucky to run at TDC and with messy mapping too.
Hopefully I can report back success and have it at least starting and idling tonight.
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Engine management / Re: Help with wiring a haltech e6k m42 turbo
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:47:34 PM »
No, three channel, my other car is a six cylinder with two igniters.
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Engine management / Re: Help with wiring a haltech e6k m42 turbo
« on: July 14, 2016, 06:29:29 AM »
By the way. Seeing you are in NSW. When I last bought ignition modules (Did not even check this time) I could not buy a Huco triple channel (I have two on my other car) by itself for the Haltech price that gets you the igniter, heatsink, plugs and pins. If you peel the Haltech sticker off it was a Huco underneath. And that is with me getting trade price at my local Autopro.
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Engine management / Re: Help with wiring a haltech e6k m42 turbo
« on: July 13, 2016, 06:13:21 PM »
I took a different tack in the car I am doing. I removed the Haltech from another car (That is getting a younger ECU) so I cut the wiring look back to terminate all the engine harness stuff un the wiring duct that is above the back of the engine in the E36. They are terminated in a series of DT and DTM connectors and then I have recycled the original wiring to the engine or replaced it as required. For one thing I spliced into the existing injector wiring to change the car over to sequential injection.
We plan to do an engine transplant later so all I will need to do wiring wise is unplug the engine side of the connectors, and then run new cabling as appropriate to the new engine (Probably a Nissan SR20) and terminate them in new engine side connector shells and plug it back in again.
We plan to do an engine transplant later so all I will need to do wiring wise is unplug the engine side of the connectors, and then run new cabling as appropriate to the new engine (Probably a Nissan SR20) and terminate them in new engine side connector shells and plug it back in again.
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Engine management / Re: Help with wiring a haltech e6k m42 turbo
« on: July 12, 2016, 08:26:43 PM »
I am currently doing similar with an E11 on an E36 318is. I have not measured the injector resistance (I am using other injectors) but so long as they are high impedance you should be able to drive more than one from a single output.
Ignition wise , how are the coils driven in an E30? (The E36 is the first BMW we have played with) The E36 has the drivers in the DME so we are using a four channel ignitor sourced from Haltech to bypass that problem.
Ignition wise , how are the coils driven in an E30? (The E36 is the first BMW we have played with) The E36 has the drivers in the DME so we are using a four channel ignitor sourced from Haltech to bypass that problem.
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