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Messages - formyhealth

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1
No need to have it running continuously via the aircon the wiring is switched by the thermostat on the right side of the radiator. You can get a different thermostats with different temperature set points however.

So is that temp sensor what controls the OE auxiliary fan? Interesting, I'll test it tomorrow with the aircon button off and idling up to temperature and see if the fan activates.

Thanks!

Well, I ran the car today with the aircon button off and the fan never turned on, even when the gauge reached damn near the red zone. It's OK though, I'll leave the button on, I don't mind running the fan constantly.

2
No need to have it running continuously via the aircon the wiring is switched by the thermostat on the right side of the radiator. You can get a different thermostats with different temperature set points however.

So is that temp sensor what controls the OE auxiliary fan? Interesting, I'll test it tomorrow with the aircon button off and idling up to temperature and see if the fan activates.

Thanks!

3
If you had air conditioning there should have been a 2 speed pusher fan already, it operates when air is on or off the 3 way switch on the right hand side of the radiator.

Yup there was one there attached to the evaporator, I don't believe it was functional so what I did was wire the SPAL fan to the existing wiring and then just have the A/C button on to run the fan. I let it run constantly when the car is running and am fine with that because it is meant to be run hard and because race car.

4
Today I got an electric fan conversion done, I went for a SPAL 16" pusher and eliminated the viscous fan. Couple reasons for this, firstly the viscous coupling was shot so the car would start warming up at long stop lights and secondly, the air conditioning didn't work when I got the car and I had no intentions of making it work so out it goes! (is anyone interested in an air conditioning core??)

Next, I had some exhaust work done today from a company in Salem called Salem Exhaust LLC. I have had other work done there as well and he always does great work. I am using all Vibrant products, namely the vibrant "StreetPower" muffler and "Ultra Quiet Resonator" Then replacing the cat with a Magnaflow 99005HM.


Part numbers for the exhaust parts:
Magnaflow 99005HM
Vibrant 1104 2.25" Ultra Quiet Resonator
Vibrant 1145 Street Power Muffler

16" SPAL Pusher:



Exhaust components:

5
WTB/WTT / Re: WTB E30 LSD diff preferably 4.10 or 3.83 in Oregon
« on: May 21, 2016, 01:50:28 AM »
Doh! Yes totally meant 3.73 gear set, I'll revise the original post, thanks!

6
Hey I am in Oregon so hopefully some one local has one available, thanks!

7
So I have started prepping the car for a repaint, I have sanded about half of it so far just down through the clear so the new base coat has some thing to stick to. I am going to respray it the same Alpine White as it is now just to clean it up. The paint wasn't to bad but there are a few pretty small dents that I wanted to fill. Also, I am going to shave the side trim, fill the clip holes with weld and then bondo it up.

I'll post up some pics of the progress this weekend.

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Is she a daily driver?

No I DD an E39 540i Sport Wagon, she's just a little play thing.

 ;)

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Glad you found the problem, and it's running well for you!

Thank you, I am so relived, I was working on it every night after work trying to make it run, super happy!

10
Cool, I was leaning towards ground nuts/screws on the back, I'll tear into it and report back with what I find.

11
Hey so I noticed before I changed my fuel pump that my gas gauge on a 1991 318is was acting erratic, the low fuel warning light is on regardless of tank level and the gauge register anywhere from empty, to half to full. Is this a fuel sending unit issue or a grounding nut issue on the cluster? Maybe a cluster issue not relating to the ground nut? Also the temp sensor is also erratic but I noticed if I give the dash above the cluster a sharp whack that the temp gauge acts normal for a minute or two (doesn't do anything for the fuel gauge though)

Here's a picture:


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Ya....was it #1. the actual electrical wiring ...brown and green wires or #2. the electrical 2 prong connector at the top of the fuel pump or #3. the fuel pump itself ......as the issue?

Enquiring minds would like to know.... 8)


Cheers,
~Ralph



So I feel it was a bit of both. The plug had disintegrated so what I ended up doing was breaking the plastic surround of the plug apart to reveal two female butt connectors which was nice, I just smooshed the ends a little to make a tighter fit on the connections.

Then to the pump, I heard it whirring away but it didn't really sound healthy, when I got it out of the tank I noticed the outlet port that attaches to a orange rubber connector was really loose, I am thinking it was likely that the pump just wasn't able to maintain pressure and would blow extra fuel past the seal and subsequently not into the fuel rail. (this theory is backed up from one, no fuel spraying me in the face when disconnecting fuel lines and two, really hard starts and long cranks after a few hours of sitting.

Hope that helps!
 

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Thanks, I figure if the fuel pump and filter isn't the issue I'll replace the FPR and then take it to my local BMW to have them deal with it.

At a certain point it makes more sense to spend money on someone who can definitely tell me the issue rather than throw money all over the car like a stripper.

14
I get 2.5 bar on my gauge for fuel pressure. Which is 36.25 psi so spot on!
Fuel filter wouldn't hurt could also be the problem

No doubt! cool I'll give it a go, I ended up purchasing a walboro fuel pump, strainer and fuel filter which should be here Sunday in lieu of metering fuel pressure, I figure for the price (~$90) might as well be sure that I DO have proper fuel pressure.

I'll post back with results this weekend.

Thanks!

15
Have you got anyway of checking your fuel pressure?
If it is your fuel pressure it could be your pressure regulator or pump.

Injectors might be clogged up too. If it's not fuel pressure!

Cheers Rohan

Thanks Rohan,

On another forum I have been talking about where to put a fuel pressure gauge, I'll be testing fuel pressure soon so I can have an update then.

Am I correct in thinking it should be in the neighborhood of 36 psi? As for the injectors, I have 19# 4 pintle injectors on the way which I will install regardless. (Maybe I should replace the fuel filter while I am at it, no sense in clogging up brand new injectors..)

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