Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / problem trying to bleed coolant

« on: September 30, 2010, 09:46:29 PM »

ok, still having problems, the thermostat was bad(boiling water test), replaced it but im still having problems.  when i add coolant to the reservoir, the level in it never drops, it just starts to overflow from the top  (front of the car is on jackstands right now).  ive tried it opening the bleeder screw without the tstat open, and only opening it after the tstat is open.  with the bleeder screw open/closed and the car running at idle the reservoir level slowly continues to rise, never dropping back down again.

and on further inspection, after i get the car nice and hot trying to bleed it, i close the bleeder screw and put the rad cap back on, i hear what almost sounds like bubbling..  (coolant temp isnt getting about 210)  maybe an air leak?  and then i noticed that water from the bleeder screw isnt coming out from the top of #5 in this picture, but it is all leaving below that and coming down near the side of the reservoir.  Im not sure if that is normal, or if its a symptom.

Ive tried just about every method that Ive read online, as well as asking a few of the techs at my work and nothing seems to be working.

2

Engine + Driveline / problem trying to bleed coolant

« on: September 26, 2010, 10:05:54 PM »

thermostat was stuck closed.

3

Engine + Driveline / problem trying to bleed coolant

« on: September 24, 2010, 11:18:03 PM »

I am totally baffled at this one, i just removed a few things as well as the TB heater delete, but i cant seem to bleed the system correctly...  I took off the top hose, held it up with the filler cap on and it evently leveled out to the point where the coolant was coming out of the upper radiator hose.

Heater on, and it blows hot.
upper hose will gradually get hot.
only coolant comes out of the bleeder screw.
upper hose gradually gets hotter.
heater core hoses are hotter than upper rad hose.
lower rad hose is cold.
radiator core is cold.

my coolant temp sensor is in the upper hose and its getting up to about 180 (was getting to 205/210 prior to this)  and thats as much as im running it as the upper timing cover is SIGNIFICANTLY hotter than the upper hose.

No leaks in the system (and no water residue on oil filler cap or on the dipstick)

level in the reservoir doesnt dip when rev'd up.  i dont understand why its not circulating through the radiator?

4

How-To's / Deleting throttle body heater plate.

« on: September 24, 2010, 11:14:09 AM »

note*  i was buzzed when i wrote that last night.  the M44 DOES have a heater plate in there, but it is filled from the back of the cylinder head, not from the middle.

5

How-To's / Deleting throttle body heater plate.

« on: September 23, 2010, 09:58:49 PM »

just finished mine tonight (as well as a host of other things) and to clear up some of the issues here.  the reason for the TB heater is to help pass smog, as your fuel vapors and valve cover breather routes right back into the intake PRIOR to the TB, which will ultimately help the evaporation and atomisation of the vapors.

ALSO, dont worry about capping the hole on the side of the block, as the M44 doesnt have this.  It has another one of those plastic pipes on the back of the cylinder head, and im fairly certain that the M44 and M42 share the same coolant passages on the block/cylinder head.  And also the M44 did not have the TB heater plate, so it is perfectly safe to assume that the reason for that is for the TB heater plate.

Also, you could make the point that re-routing that hole in the side of the block actually hurts you, as you would be diverting coolant away from the back of the cylinder head.  But, of course the water pump is perfectly strong enough to get it flowing all the way to the back, so this might not be the case.  BUT, rest assured that by re-routing it your are most definitely NOT helping the engine in any way.


The TB heater plate does NOT help in warming the car up.  the coolant passing through it is cold, and only heats up as the engine already is.

The TB heater plate does NOT help in removing ice on the TB.  same issue, are you getting ice before you start the car, or is it happening once the car is already fully warmed up?

6

General Topics / How many miles do you have? [NOW WITH POLL!]

« on: September 02, 2010, 09:03:49 PM »

i bought my car with 185K with the odometer never working while i had it.

7

Engine management / mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is

« on: September 02, 2010, 08:52:12 PM »

Next oil change ill be trying the Chevron 10w30 Super Synthetic.  I've heard very good things.

8

Engine + Driveline / having a hot-start issue

« on: July 11, 2010, 08:14:34 PM »

different issue here.

but i thought that it was going to be the idle air valve (talked with a master tech at my work) and he suggested that i get the car to where im having the problem and start cranking it over then hit the IAV and see if it starts. And when i tried it, it fired right up. so i put in a new valve last night and today i have the same problem, albeit a little less severe.

9

Engine + Driveline / having a hot-start issue

« on: July 02, 2010, 02:03:41 AM »

this has me completely stumped.  if i get the engine completely warmed up and let it sit for about 30 minutes and try to start it, it cranks over, starts, never makes it up to idle and dies.

if i start blipping the throttle it will start after a bit and drive fine after that.  car has a bunch of new OEM parts on it (from the dealer).

the car is an E30 btw

10

Engine + Driveline / '93M42 to '98M44 swap. List of requirements

« on: November 28, 2009, 02:00:34 PM »

if you want to do the swap correctly it takes a bit of work.  if you just want to get the motor running in your car all you need to do is take everything off your M42 and swap it onto the M44.

11

Engine + Driveline / ignition

« on: November 26, 2009, 01:27:24 PM »

what coils / plug wires is everyone using here?  stock coils are like $85 each, and the plug wires are $50, which seems like its the same cost as aftermarket ones.

12

Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: November 25, 2009, 08:53:50 PM »

i just put in a set of the injectors along with a 3.5 FPR, and while i dont think it added much of any power, it does run a LOT smoother.  i also have 4 spare ones (bought the set of , PM me if you are interested in buying them.

13

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / E36 M42 Turbo install questions.

« on: November 06, 2009, 02:31:04 AM »

Asshole

Ive done plenty of reading.
Answer the GodDamn Question or GTFO

If it sooo easy to find/read, why cant someone put them in a "Turbo Info" sticky?

If i can build this, I think i can figure out your pussy 4cyl.

your an idiot.  IFF "you can buld this" then you wouldnt need to be asking a pussy 4cyl online forum for advice.  GTFO please.

14

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M43B16 to M44B19 Swap

« on: November 06, 2009, 02:05:44 AM »

not really sure, since the M42 car i bought had a blown engine.  my coworker (bmw technician who used to have an M42) said it pulled a lot harder than his car did.  was a faily simple swap.

btw my motor was from a z3 1.9L

15

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M43B16 to M44B19 Swap

« on: November 05, 2009, 07:33:58 PM »

i did an m44 swap on an e30.