jrw21, your writeup inspired, originally I posted this one without comments, only pictures, but other e30 people finally convinced me to add some captions.
But cheers! I hope this provides useful to others, i know yours did to me
NOTE: Submersible fuel line should be used if you question the supplied fuel line (submersible line truely is much tougher and more difficult to cut than the line that is provided with the pump.)Fuel Pump DIY for $80 - Install in Pictures
Car: 1991 318i 4-door - my current "Lazarus" e30 project, M42. All later e30s with the single in-tank fuel pump would follow the same procedure. Don't cross wires or leave exposed wires within arching distances. I take no responsibility for your actions, this is mere documentation of the process that I performed on one of my own cars. I have used a Walbro HP255LPH before external and internal and have been very pleased with them, for this one however, i decided to try out the TRE340 unit, slightly less expensive than the Walbro, both are obviously superior to the OEM unit when you compare flow charts. I love the Walbros and am looking forward to seeing how well this TRE performs in comparison.
What is needed:
8mm wrench or socket
Set of screwdrivers
Wire cutters
Wire Strippers
Soldering iron/gun, Solder & basic skills
Dremel or mini grinder & basic skills
$80
~ 2 inches of submersible fuel line - check with your local marine motorsports shop, according to a couple other members, if you have to resort to getting it from an autoparts store such as NAPA, they sell it in 1-foot lengths for ~$20 a pop.
2 hours, probably less.
The rear seat of most e30s simply "pops" up, grab and lift, install is reverse.
Using a screw driver for leverage as shown, rotate the pump assembly counter-clockwise.
Pay attention to the manner in which you must move the pump to remove from the tank, this will speed the process of re-install.
Make note of positive and negative terminal positions, do not cross your wires while soldering.
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