Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / New Clutch doesn't disengage

« on: July 26, 2011, 07:58:30 PM »

I bought an oil can to try the reverse bleeding. The cheap cans I was able to find couldn't pump the fluid up through the system.

The trick I found with the vacuum bleeder is to get some of those spring clamps that are used on underhood vacuum hoses to hold the hose to the bleeder. Worked good.

-=Chris

2

Engine + Driveline / Good used diff

« on: July 25, 2011, 08:32:41 PM »

Where is the best place to get a good used diff? The last 2 I've replaced seem to last only about 50K miles before they get noisy, and I'd rather not be replacing these things every 2-3 years. The current one seems to need output bearings, and I'm not sure I'm up to rebuilding it myself.

Thanks.

-=Chris

3

Engine + Driveline / New Clutch doesn't disengage

« on: July 25, 2011, 08:22:24 PM »

Out of frustration I stomped on the pedal rapidly about 20-30 times, and the clutch came back! I think the vacuum bleed pulled the piston away from the release fork.  Anyway. it works great now.

-=Chris

4

Engine + Driveline / New Clutch doesn't disengage

« on: July 04, 2011, 07:15:12 PM »

Hi all,

I've just completed a clutch replace met on my 91 318is (250k miles), and the clutch won't disengage.

Here's what I've done so far:
-new Sachs kit from Bav Auto, including the release bearing. The disk is in the right way around (checked it twice before I put the trans back in)
-new rear main seal (the reason why the old clutch was slipping)
-hydraulics are original. I just bled them using a mity-vac. Hydraulics were working fine before the new clutch.
-the clutch pedal feels real light, like the slave is not engaging anything.
-pumping the clutch doesn't help.

Short of pulling the trans, which I'd like to avoid unless it's absolutely necessary, how can I narrow down if this is a hydraulic problem or a mechanical one? any way to see if the hydraulics are working properly?

Thanks.

-=Chris

5

Site and club discussion / Has anyone else had this PM

« on: February 14, 2010, 07:09:18 AM »

Yeah, got the same message, and a couple of others that were obviously spam. I just deleted them.

6

Engine + Driveline / Main Thrust bearings

« on: December 17, 2009, 09:11:01 AM »

the m42 only has 180 degree thrust surface stock.

The old Triumph 1300/1500 engines used in Spitfires from the 60's and 70's (and MG Midget 1500s like mine in the late 70's) had this design, and these engines were notorious for dropping thrush washers into the pan. I'm very surprised BMW would have gone with this kind of design.

One thing a lot of Triumph guys do is pin the thrust washers in place so that when they do wear, they don't drop into the sump and cause crank/main bearing cap damage. When I refreshed my 1500, I used a red Loctite to keep them in place. So far, so good.

The other thing we do is keep our foot off the clutch pedal as much as possible (i.e. don't keep the pedal pushed in at a red light).

7

Suspension / I got issues

« on: December 16, 2009, 01:58:33 PM »

Sounds a lot like a bad wheel bearing...

8

Engine + Driveline / Main Thrust bearings

« on: December 15, 2009, 08:46:48 AM »

well i just look at it from sight and used a screw driver and it moved about .25 inch

That's huge! I don't know the exact BMW spec, but that thrust distance should be less than .010 inch or so.

As above, check the pulley first. If it's tight, then you've got bigger issues.

I'll bet if you drop your oil pan (difficult on these motors in the car, I know) you'll find the thrust wahers there. If you're lucky, you haven't trashed the crank/block yet.

9

Engine + Driveline / Main Thrust bearings

« on: December 14, 2009, 12:18:22 PM »

If your thrust bearings are worn to the point that you have significant play, you've probably got big problems internally.

How did you diagnose the play in the crank. How far is it moving?

10

Member Profiles / Harv's e30 318is

« on: December 09, 2009, 07:28:54 PM »

Nice lookin' E30!
Like the Spridget too.

11

Electrical / AC and resurculation light.

« on: December 09, 2009, 12:04:06 PM »

IIRC, these two only light up when active, not with the headlights. I haven't driven the car in over a year, but this is what I remember.

12

Suspension / Post your suspension setup

« on: December 09, 2009, 11:59:57 AM »

For me, at the moment, yes, still stock. Still putting my plans together....

13

Engine + Driveline / Thermostat and Coolant Bleeding Issues

« on: December 09, 2009, 10:44:55 AM »

what i did notice is that if the temp needle started jumping, i have the gauge cluster a good smack and the needle drops back down where it is supposed to be immediately.

Mine does that too, and I've used the same solution. Been doing it since we bought the car in '04.

I think it may be a loose ground on the back of the gauge, but I never got around to pulling my gauge cluster to check.

14

General Topics / How many miles do you have? [NOW WITH POLL!]

« on: March 06, 2009, 01:56:10 PM »

about 251K. Parked since January, collecting parts for restoration.

15

General Topics / engine oil

« on: March 02, 2009, 06:39:22 PM »

I've been using either Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic, usually 10W40 in the winter and 15W50 in the summer. CHanged about every 10K.