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Messages - Tgoode318

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13
1
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Turbo Manifold
« on: September 30, 2020, 03:02:33 PM »
Hello! Its been a long while since I last posted on here. I was doing a m42 N/A Build years ago and like too many others the build fizzled out. Since then I got a Turbo bmw and fell in love with the turbos ;D. I Have had the M42 sitting around for a while just waiting for the right time to revisit (would never sell it!). I Have a good local shop that is willing to do the build for me. When i was talking to them they said they actually custom tuned a boosted m42 to just over 600 HP :o!  So i am trying to source some parts for the build and am having trouble finding the right Turbo manifold. I contacted rapidspoolindustries but they said their manifold will only work with an e30 car and mine is a 94 E36. They recommended going with the obx Manifold but i remember people saying it had very poor fitment. Can any one help me out with a recommendation as to what company to go with? I remember back in the day 666 Fab was a good choice but it looks like their website is gone?
Cheers.

2
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: JRW'S 91 318is turbo build
« on: January 28, 2016, 09:46:20 AM »
I have heard that going to the electric water pump is similar in principle to the Fan delete in that its one less reciprocating mass unit being driven by the engine. (even though technically the load is just transferred to the charging system which is still driven by the engine). I have heard that this can give you 1-3* hp? although i don't have any conclusive data on that. Could also be that its just a better unit. Jrw enlighten us! btw great build so far i love all the custom touches you are putting into this.

3
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: m42/m44 stock manifold turbo adapter
« on: January 09, 2016, 04:42:17 PM »
Cool, keep us updated.  8)

4
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: e30 318i c 1992
« on: July 20, 2015, 05:19:12 PM »
Thanks darky pretty much exactly what i was thinking !! Awesome.
When i saw almost no one makes an upgraded m42 rad i figured why not use a 6 cyl rad which is basically the same design. Its great to know some one else had this idea and has done it already with success!
Thanks again. To OP how is your swap coming along? 

5
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: e30 318i c 1992
« on: July 15, 2015, 02:20:47 PM »
Darky where did you mount your expansion tank? Were you able to use the stock length hoses or did you need longer ones? Also the top hose from the engine (right side of thermostat housing) that's connected to the neck of the expansion tank (m42) did you just connect that directly to the 6 cyl rad?

6
Engine management / Re: 1991 318is m42 idle problem
« on: July 14, 2015, 10:00:24 PM »
Spray carb cleaner around and listen to changes in the engine?? If nothing changes next i would check your electrical system make sure your bat and alt are up to snuff and your relays are all in good shape.  And no codes either huh? intake leaks will usually throw a code but pesky electrical probs might not. my 2c

7
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: e30 318i c 1992
« on: July 11, 2015, 06:09:45 PM »
Darky do you have any more info on the 6 to 4 cyl rad swap? I was going to attempt this conversion next weekend, When i called mishi and told them i planed to convert it they said it shouldnt be a prob just figure a mounting spot for the expansion tank and the rest should be pretty much the same besides the top hose will go directly to the rad instead of the expansion tank which is what i was thinking.

8
Engine management / Re: 1991 318is m42 idle problem
« on: July 02, 2015, 06:19:15 PM »
If you want to do a "ghetto" Smoke test you can use Carb cleaner. With the engine on, spray around all of your hoses with carb cleaner and listen for a change in idle.. It should be a pronounced change in RPM.. While not as good as a "smoke Test" this has worked for me a number of times.
It's not uncommon to work on the icv,air intake, etc put it all back together and then have every thing become worse. This is usually because the hoses are so old that when you remove them they put cracks/air leaks all over the place. 

Also do a "Stomp Test" and report back with any codes you get.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm

9
Engine + Driveline / Re: Engine knocking, can't figure it out.
« on: June 17, 2015, 08:52:57 PM »
man that poor m42, that is some hellacious chain slap! Monty is on the right track bad guides perhaps.. You will need to open her up and inspect the components. Also when you replaced the tensioner did it improve at all?

10
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: M42/M44 ITB Kit Design
« on: June 13, 2015, 04:10:13 PM »
Alright LHD!  ;D  8)

11
I have replaced multiple shafts but never had a significant loss in mpg. A bad wheel bearing is a good idea, it can cause metallic noises as well as a loss in mpg from parasitic drag i would inspect yours along with doing what dean said, +1 to gabs.

12
Engine management / Re: fuel + spark is no start?!
« on: May 13, 2015, 03:18:46 PM »
Yes
 
Symptom: Starter motor turns engine slowly

1 battery discharged (Yours is ok)
2 Terminals loose or corroded (yours is ok)
3 ground strap broken or disconnect (Yours IS corroded!)
4 starter wiring loose (check if you suspect)
5 starter internal fault (check if you suspect)

Most likely you need to replace your ground strap and then check 7,8,9,10 as usually if you only had a corroded ground it will crank slowly but still start.

13
Nice job benz-tech. Screw all those expensive pre made exhaust set ups, it seems like the 318 has the worst selection of exhaust i have ever seen for a performance car. The set ups  i have seen are all extremely over priced and don't give much in terms of power especially for the money they are asking!

14
Engine + Driveline / Re: Unique idle problem
« on: May 13, 2015, 09:51:41 AM »
Was the o2 you replaced a OEM one or aftermarket?

15
Engine management / Re: fuel + spark is no start?!
« on: May 12, 2015, 05:12:28 PM »
Things to look over.
1. Fuel tank empty/ very old fuel
2. battery discharged
3. terminals loose or corroded
4. air filter clogged
5. low cylinder compression
6. major mechanical failure (like a broken timing chain)
7. ignition components damp or damaged
8. fuel injection system fault
9. worn/faulty or incorrectly gaped spark plugs
10. Broken loose or disconnected wiring in ignition circuit
11. Ground strap broken missing or corroded.

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