Messages

1

General Topics / This is ugly... (fuel leak)

« on: May 11, 2012, 09:14:30 AM »

Yeah, I know the best thing would be to drop the tank, and I know that I need subframe bushings as well, but honestly, as much as I love this car, I only paid $600 for it, and there is some pretty heavy duty rust (it came from upstate New York) and many other problems that I just can't afford to fix. Also, it's my DD. I have a bike I can ride for a few days, but it's been rainy here lately, and that's not a great option.

I figured those hard rails across the top of the tank might be the problem, but it looks like it's coming from the front side of the tank where that other hard line (the one in my pic that's on top of all the others, and joins to a piece of plastic line on the right) goes. Is it part #11 in the RealOEM diagram? If it is, then it shouldn't be pressurized and wouldn't leak like that, right?

Thanks for all the help guys!

2

General Topics / This is ugly... (fuel leak)

« on: May 10, 2012, 06:03:36 PM »

I've developed a fuel leak that I thought was from a fuel pump hose. After lifting the lid on the pump, putting in a new o-ring, and tightening hose clamps, I found that most of it was spattering from somewhere just out of reach under the floorpan. So I cut a little piece out. The leak moved. Cut a little more, moves a little more. A big, frustrated cut later and what I have is this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/49048493@N06/7173361530/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/49048493@N06/7173361530/
Most of the fuel comes from the piece of floor pan that's bent up. It sprays out in a fine mist from in between the chipped edge of the tan underbody coating and the metal. I guess the leak is actually somewhere else, and it's worked it's way under the coating.
So my question is: where could the source possibly be? It pressurizes real quick and starts leaking as soon as the pump turns on.        
Also, I don't have access to anything more than some makeshift ramps, so I can't lift the car very high, and I definitely don't have the means to drop the tank.

3

Electrical / Aftermarket LED tail light issues

« on: February 01, 2010, 05:06:27 PM »

Sean - where exactly is the wiring problem in the trunk? I have some taillight issues (which just turned into instrument panel issues) and I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the harness in the trunk.

thanks

4

General Topics / Temp Gauge Issues - I need Help!

« on: December 27, 2009, 11:59:09 AM »

Which one is the oil sensor plug?

5

Suspension / Front Strut Bars

« on: December 25, 2009, 05:19:50 PM »

Just a heads up - 318i and 318is bars are not necessarily the same.
I think I saw this in one of Bimmerworld's ( or maybe IE) product descriptions, but there is a difference in distance between the mounting bolts. I think they said that even between different is's there can be a difference.
Maybe this is common knowledge...

6

Suspension / Parking brake adjustment

« on: December 15, 2009, 09:54:18 AM »

I just put new rotors on and really had to slam the old ones to get them off. Mine had abnormal amounts of rust, though.
I don't know about BMWs, but on my '78 Nova I just pull the cable a little tighter using the adjustment nuts. Probably not comparable, though.

7

General Topics / Stuck bolt

« on: December 13, 2009, 07:53:45 PM »

Yep. Definitely gonna drill them. Wasn't really sure how necessary they were, but that makes sense.
Thanks guys.

8

General Topics / Stuck bolt

« on: December 11, 2009, 11:21:55 AM »

I'm doing a brake job and the retainer bolts (the allen head ones) for the front rotors are both stuck fast. Apparently the PO ran into the same problem, because they are both half-stripped, thus making my life a whole lot harder. I've had PB blaster on them for a couple of hours, but they're not budging and any more force will strip them completely and leave me utterly boned.
Any suggestions?
Oh, and I tried heating them, but wasn't really sure how much or what (bolt or rotor?) to heat. I aslo beat the hell out of the rotor with a rubber mallet, hoping some good vibes would help a little:D
Thanks, and sorry for the nooby question

9

Suspension / Need help and suggestions

« on: December 09, 2009, 08:44:25 PM »

I picked up a set of bimmerworld's rear strut mounts a while back. They've been great, and I think they were only $30. They've a lifetime guarantee, too.

10

Engine + Driveline / Head Gasket Replacement

« on: December 07, 2009, 03:38:55 PM »

I just did a headgasket job, and it was pretty easy once i got the tools. The garage I had it towed to (I was 300 miles from home) gave me a quote of $1500, and said it would be 15 hours of labor. I did it in 10, and I'm no pro.
The head bolts are torx-style, and you'll need a special tool (check ebay - I got mine for $20 plus shipping). The tool was definitely worth it, as removing the cams will give a lot more room for error in timing when you put it back together. I picked up a torque wrench from harbor freight for $30-ish, and it seemed to do the trick. I did alright without locking the cams in place, just double and triple checked everything. Just make sure the bottom end deosn't rotate and you'll be alright. And take lots of pictures of where everything is.
Good luck

11

Engine + Driveline / No start after headgasket fix

« on: November 03, 2009, 03:47:00 PM »

Everything is running smooth. Just drained the coolant and replaced it... warmin up the car now so I can bleed the system.
Got spark and fuel to all the cylinders, too. It was just a case of me being tired and frustrated to find the switched plug wires.
Thanks again for the help, guys, quinn and Dave especially.

12

Engine + Driveline / No start after headgasket fix

« on: November 03, 2009, 01:05:38 PM »

Yeah, the wire is frayed enough so that it'll short if it's flexed the wrong way... luckily it's a rather stiff wire, so I haven't had too much trouble with it yet.

I was also wondering whether anyone ahd a pic of the coolant drain plug on the engine block. The Bentley says it's back by the exhaust manifold, but I didn't/couldn't see it past the control arm, steering rack, and thick black goop.

13

Engine + Driveline / No start after headgasket fix

« on: November 03, 2009, 11:30:01 AM »

Ok, it's fixed... the plug wires were flipped. Guess I was too frustrated to see it.
About the crank position sensor, though.... can I patch it? It looks like a braided conductor over an inner wire. I'm not sure about the technical aspect of it, so I'm kinda hesitant to just patch it in case this setup is necessary. Anyone done this before?

14

Engine + Driveline / No start after headgasket fix

« on: November 02, 2009, 08:46:53 PM »

All right, sounds like a plan.
I thought Murphy's Law was "If it can go wrong, it will", which also applies:rolleyes:
Thanks for the quick help, I really appreciate it.

15

Engine + Driveline / No start after headgasket fix

« on: November 02, 2009, 06:48:45 PM »

I have a full tank of fuel, and haven't touched any relays. Definitely went over everything to make sure all the sensors are connected, but I'll do it again in the morning. What's the easiest way to check fuel and spark?
I'm a little worried about compression... when I rotated the crank by hand, it was fairly easy. Not really easy, but easier than I remember. Maybe.

Now that i think about it, I might have reversed some of the input plugs for the coils. Like you said quinn, probably something simple.