Messages

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Photoshop, Media, & Artwork / On-Board 318is racing on the Nurburgring

« on: January 01, 2010, 05:44:23 PM »

looks way fun, the m42 definitley needs more punch to it

this is was 70 more horsies gets you
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHIlVLmgB2I

Hmmm, the BTG time from my lap was a bit less than in your video. So I think
that driver in your video can still improve his driving skills. :p
A BTG time in the range of 8:30 is possible with a standard 136 hp engine and good (Bridgestone RE55S / Dunlop Direzza) semi slick tires. :rolleyes:

And about 10 seconds slower with Toyo R888 tires.

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Photoshop, Media, & Artwork / On-Board 318is racing on the Nurburgring

« on: January 01, 2010, 10:54:49 AM »

Engine is the standard M42B18 with 136 hp, tires are Avon Slicks. Speedo was calibrated to GPS. Lateral and longitudinal g-forces shown in the vid. First race of the year 2009 in april on the nurburgring nordschleife.

click here to view on youtube

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / 9 Weeks to Build a E30 318IS Track Car - Nurburgring 12th April 09

« on: March 18, 2009, 12:47:03 PM »

... Any adivse on driving the ring would be gladly received!

... Looks like I'll have to pull it out and try and seal it again, any advise?

...2.  It might not be providing enough back pressure hence not running very well

1) Drive slowly, that's quicker and better for your car. On easter it'll be full as hell and there'll be lots of accidents. Main problem is how to get through the traffic jams without overheating the engine.

2) The O-Ring around the water pump might have been damaged while you were installing the pump (too much brute force). Use a new O-Ring, use a little bit of grease and gently remount the pump. When coolant comes out of the pump's bearings, then buy a new pump.

3) Don't worry about back pressure. Worry about overheating tyres, about oil, bikers or both behind a corner in the middle of the track (had that a couple o'times), worry about your safety.

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / 9 Weeks to Build a E30 318IS Track Car - Nurburgring 12th April 09

« on: March 16, 2009, 01:09:33 PM »

very nice. What suspension setup?

KW custom made, bound and rebound damping separately adjustable. Springs are quite soft (120N/mm front, unknown in the back) for a race car. A pain to drive in daily traffic though.
About -3 degrees camber, Bridgestone RE55S road legal tyres in 205/50R15. Because of the negative camber rims like 7x15 with offset 12 work nicely (drive my slicks with that).

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / 9 Weeks to Build a E30 318IS Track Car - Nurburgring 12th April 09

« on: March 15, 2009, 01:53:10 PM »

so......

after much wrangling with different bits of hose and connectors she's finally alive!  few little niggles to sort out

1. slight leak from water pump, guess the bolts need a final torque
2. idle still a bit eratic, suspect ICV so going to order another also need to set idle stopper and MAF voltage with the wideband
3. exhaust is LOUD so may need to quieten that down
4. had to bypass heater matrix as the valve is knackered and leaking slightly so no heat for me on the road to germany and also gauage is still not hitting quite in the middle.  guess there's still air in the system to bleed out.
5. tracking to be done
6. need some clips for the new inlet tract

Any advise on any of the above gladly welcomed!

4 weeks to go!

Hi finite,

watch your exhaust to be not too loud. They make sound measuring when they notice a loud car at the gate of the nordschleife.
Did my first laps today this year and on the way to the Nurburgring my temp gauge didn't reach the middle as well. --> don't worry
I always have an oil temp gauge as a backup.

If your heater doesn't work you need a good fan in in the front in case your get in the jam after the end of the lap. I see often guys blowing their radiator on the last meters of a lap because they come with a hot car out of Galgenkopf and then get stuck in traffic.

Speaking of which - they've got new tarmac on the entry of Galgenkopf and it gives you a bump when you get on the old tarmac in the middle of that corner. You want to be bit slower there than last season).

Oh, and: yippie-yeah I felt so jumpy today :-)

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / 9 Weeks to Build a E30 318IS Track Car - Nurburgring 12th April 09

« on: March 02, 2009, 04:04:08 PM »

I find it pretty great that you put safety before "speed gadgets" like semi slicks or engine tuning Well done!

Generally you can compensate a (rather soft) standard suspension and the lack of camber with low profile tyres like 215/40R16 (they have stiff side walls and won't wear off so quickly on the outer sides).

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / 9 Weeks to Build a E30 318IS Track Car - Nurburgring 12th April 09

« on: February 13, 2009, 12:17:02 PM »

Cylinder head and cover are M42 as well as is the oil filter. I can't see any sign for the engine being an M44.


The water hose from the cylinder head (engine water OUT) goes to the heater connector on the bottom (car water IN). Behind that connector (on the drivers side) is an electrical valve.


The upper connector on the car/heater side (car water OUT) goes to the thick plastic tube (engine water IN) underneath the cable tree of the engine.

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / 9 Weeks to Build a E30 318IS Track Car - Nurburgring 12th April 09

« on: February 08, 2009, 03:41:36 PM »

The wire from brown/orange temp sensor is supposed to connect to pin 26 of the blue connector of your instrument cluster / temp gauge.
Between the connector of that sensor and its housing you should measure about 600 Ohms at room temperature.

Between the two connectors of the blue temp sensor its about 2300 Ohms impedance (at room temp.). One wire is ground (i think) an the other should be connected to pin 78 of the ECU.

Check those wires. Temp sensors rarely fail or get damaged. Both sensors decrease in impedance with raising coolant temp (NTC).

As for the heater: you have only two possibilities fixing the hoses. Try both.
Remember to check whether the heater and the radiator are not clogged. And by the way: with a defect coolant pump both heater and radiator wouldn't work, right? So check that pump.

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / 9 Weeks to Build a E30 318IS Track Car - Nurburgring 12th April 09

« on: February 08, 2009, 05:47:55 AM »

Hi finite,

people could help you if you would take pictures of the engine and show them here.

I think only the M44 is equipped with only ONE temp sensor in the cylinder head. M42 of both E30 and E36 had two sensors: BLUE for the DME and YELLOW/ORANGE for the temp gauge.

Furthermore I think the M44 double sensor is not appropriate for the M42 DME. Get a BLUE temp sensor for M42 and throw away the M44 double sensor (isn't that a temp switch instead of a sensor anyway?). After that you still havn't got a working temp gauge but the DME is able to read the water temp of the engine and will run smoother when idling cold.

Regarding the cold heater: change both hoses connected to the heater. Probably the water flow is in wrong direction so it can't get through the heater.

Tips für brake pads/rotors:
- standard BMW OEM parts for normal driving
  (does also work on occasional trips on the Nurburgring).
- Hawk or Pagid yello pads for racing or heavy duty Nurburgring use.
  Combine them with group N rotors (standard rotors cannot stand
  the heat for a long time).
  Group N rotors are e.g. Tarox Zero.