Messages

1

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Re: M42 Phenolic Spacer (reduce intake temps)

« on: December 05, 2014, 09:59:30 PM »

I made one myself for way less than that. Bought a stick of phenolic from mcmaster.com, some longer studs I found on realoem and an intake manifold gasket. Traced the gasket and basically used a big rotary tool to machine it out.

2

Engine + Driveline / Block heater or oil heater for M42?

« on: November 02, 2011, 09:20:31 PM »

I would look at a Zerostart coolant circulating heater. Warms up the whole block.

3

Electrical / e36 no start

« on: September 18, 2011, 12:04:20 PM »

There's a black/yellow wire leaving the ignition and going down the steering column. It takes a right turn way over to the EWS module and comes back as a green/yellow of the same size, which goes to the engine bay to crank. If you have 12V on the black/yellow, but not the green/yellow when trying to crank, then that's your problem. You don't need to pull the EWS module, just cut these two wires and connect them so the crank signal goes straight from the steering column to the engine bay.

4

Electrical / e36 no start

« on: July 15, 2011, 08:22:08 PM »

Problem solved. It was the EWS II, which most of you guys are not cursed with.  There is a starter blocking relay which goes out sometimes. Luckily you can just jumper it out. EWS will still prevent starting if there's no key by not allowing fuel or spark. But for now it cranks and runs fine.

5

Electrical / e36 no start

« on: July 09, 2011, 11:18:10 PM »

Hi, I'm having the same problems on my E36 M42. No crank, no solenoid click, nothing.  Dash lights up normally, and no codes from the stomp test. There is 13V on the starter motor.

I put a meter on the ignition switch and I get 13V on the black/yellow wire when the key is turned to crank, but when doing the same test it's not getting to the solenoid.  Is there a relay or something between them? I tried both of my keys, jiggled the keys in the ignition, and turned the steering wheel side to side, but it seems like the problem is not in the ignition switch itself.

6

Engine + Driveline / Fuel Pressure?

« on: February 14, 2010, 08:16:42 PM »

No, the pressure should climb up to about 50+, to make up for the difference in manifold vacuum between idle and WOT.

7

Engine + Driveline / Fuel Pressure?

« on: February 14, 2010, 10:08:34 AM »

Under accel it should climb a few psi.  My 95 had 40 at idle and 50 at WOT.  Where are you measuring it?

8

Engine + Driveline / Need help with startup noise: rattle/zip

« on: July 28, 2009, 09:07:14 PM »

I forgot to get back to y'all on this one, but it turned out to be the starter.  I took it out, took it apart and cleaned the gunk, dust and grit out of the gears and solenoid.  Then I put some new grease on the internal gears only and put it back in.  No noise!  Several cold starts now and no chatter.  I guess the solenoid was not retracting hard enough to pull the gear out of the flywheel so it made noise when the flywheel overran it.

9

Engine + Driveline / Says ATF but used Redline MTL...I'm an idiot

« on: May 24, 2009, 08:58:49 AM »

Everyone I've talked to said to use the Redline-MTL instead of the ATF.  Basically the ATF is used when the driver is not a careful cold-temp shifter.  Also just read a tech response in the back of a Roundel a couple months ago where they said they recommend Redline-MTL in a manual tranny no matter what.

That's funny.  The OE spec fluid is for bad drivers only...

Wait till winter in PA Jorge.

10

Engine + Driveline / Says ATF but used Redline MTL...I'm an idiot

« on: May 14, 2009, 01:47:57 PM »

No big deal.  A lot of BMW owners use it in their manual trannys.  I tried it for a while but found that their D4 ATF shifted smoother at low temps.

11

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Injector selection

« on: April 09, 2009, 10:28:33 AM »

I'm running stock 1.8L displacement and a DASC at 9psi.  My injectors are Lucas 36 lb/hr and they are too big.  My injector duty cycle at redline WOT are only about 65%, which I can read on the power commander III.  I think I could go down to 32 lb/hr.

Also stock FPR.  43psi idle, 50psi WOT.

12

Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: March 19, 2009, 05:40:19 PM »

The E36 M42 injectors are the same size, I've got some sets of them and they are the same, the M44 have the larger base we are talking about here.

I'm not sure it's air injection, I'm stripping an M44 at the moment and the additional air inlets are for the idle air control that is mounted to the side of the throttle body.

Yep, that's what my M42 injectors look like.  9/95 build date, large bottom with air tubes.

13

Engine + Driveline / Need help with startup noise: rattle/zip

« on: March 16, 2009, 02:33:35 PM »

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=68378

This sounds a lot like my noise. I'll have to check into the starter and see if I can get a sound clip.

14

Engine management / It's alive!! Power Commander III + 36 lb/hr injectors

« on: March 12, 2009, 02:10:11 PM »

Seriously, you will be able to rip the tires on demand with that 4.10.  You could probably scratch 3rd.

I define "useless" as not having time to look at the street to see if you're inbetween the lines while you have it floored.  You just have to keep your eyes on the tach.

Try the 4.10 for a while, what the hell.  It's easy to swap out.

15

General Topics / code 1226 knock sensor #2

« on: February 15, 2009, 11:43:50 PM »

There is only one O2 sensor, ahead of the cat. I got a Bosch part number 13231 O2 sensor at Autozone which plugged right in.

Yes, my M42 was one of the last: 9/95