Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Bleed screw (radiator) leak help PLEASE

« on: June 22, 2009, 05:53:23 PM »

I had that problem before.  On mine the plastic around the threads was cracked.  Once that happens no o-ring is going to work, you have to replace the radiator.

2

How-To's / Deleting throttle body heater plate.

« on: February 18, 2009, 06:25:09 PM »

If you consider the rather large number of people who have done it I would say you already have your confirmation.  If you follow the coolant flow that is nothing more than a minor bypass, it will otherwise go through the motor as intended.  The coolant would normally be coming out of the head and into the plastic pipe so bypassing it simply makes it run through the head and out with the rest of the coolant into the right side of the radiator.  The preheater offered no heat dissipation or routing of any value.

3

Engine + Driveline / Diff. Fluid does it matter?

« on: February 18, 2009, 06:22:08 PM »

The additives are simply friction modifiers for the plates in the clutch, if you have no plates you have no problem.

4

Engine + Driveline / E36 Radiator fitment on E30

« on: February 18, 2009, 06:19:08 PM »

Fits fine.  If you have a thermostat in the car you can't over cool it.  I've got a Mishimoto E36 radiator in my 318 and it works great.  Just have to use a 325i's coolant overflow tank or an aftermarket tank.

5

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Win?

« on: February 18, 2009, 06:11:17 PM »

Damnit.  I've been waiting for something like this and of course I just spent the money on my body work instead.  Figures I'd miss out on something like that.  They're not too far from me either so I could just go pick up a kit and drive home with a shit eating grin the whole way.  lol  Good pickup.

6

How-To's / Deleting throttle body heater plate.

« on: February 08, 2009, 09:20:41 PM »

I agree, connecting the in and out directly with a factory hose is the cleanest way possible and the safest/longest lasting.  The heater/spacer plate looks just the same with nothing connected so when you're done it looks just like it did except no more heater lines waiting to crack. I also used new vacuum/coolant hoses for the PCV and idle control valve so that it all looks stock, just doesn't have the metal pipe running through them.

7

How-To's / Deleting throttle body heater plate.

« on: February 06, 2009, 12:09:01 AM »

I just put the heater plate back on with nothing hooked to it to take up the difference and to keep more throttled volume for better mid range.  The hose that comes off the top of the plastic pipe that you would normally plug can simply be plugged into the head.  Now both are sealed and flowing just like the factory intended and you don't have to buy anything or use shitty caps that will split in no time.  I've done this setup twice and it works perfectly and you don't have to worry about anything.

8

Engine + Driveline / Electric Fan Thoughts...

« on: January 25, 2009, 06:35:26 PM »

If you get a proper temp switch setup you won't have to do much wiring.  You only have to shove the temp sensor into the radiator fins and hook up a few wires.  With many of them you can even hook up an auxiliary turn on to the AC and delete the fan up front.  I've got a 16" unit hooked up this way and it works perfectly and comes on with the AC as well.

9

Engine + Driveline / Cooling system help!

« on: January 25, 2009, 06:33:06 PM »

I've gotten it to work better by lifting the front of the car.  I just lift the front on my lift while the back stays on the ground, tends to work the air out faster.