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Engine + Driveline / Chain guide failures...from synthetic oil?
« on: January 18, 2010, 02:00:39 PM »
Unrelated but how the hell does that spammer have a higher post count than me? LOL
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Engine + Driveline / Chain guide failures...from synthetic oil?
« on: January 18, 2010, 12:34:08 PM »
Interesting. Ive only run non synthetic oil in my engine, I was thinking about switching to Mobil 1 or another synthetic, just haven't done so yet.
I'll be keeping an eye on this thread to see what people have to say.
BTW, 150,000 miles no major issues.
I'll be keeping an eye on this thread to see what people have to say.
BTW, 150,000 miles no major issues.
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Engine + Driveline / Manual Trans Fluid
« on: January 18, 2010, 10:52:41 AM »
I was considering using the swepco 201 gear oil in my trans (because I bought a gallon) but was concerned with the viscosity.
Being a fellow PA resident, how did the gearbox feel in the winter with gear oil? I can deal with stiff shifts until it warms up.
This is my first BMW and its the first manual trans I have owned that requires ATF.?.
Being a fellow PA resident, how did the gearbox feel in the winter with gear oil? I can deal with stiff shifts until it warms up.
This is my first BMW and its the first manual trans I have owned that requires ATF.?.
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Engine + Driveline / Manual Trans Fluid
« on: January 18, 2010, 08:26:33 AM »
I have been reading numerous threads regarding manual trans fluids. I just changed my LSD fluid out with Swepco 201. I would like to stay with swepco, I was considering their hyd fluid, 714 as it replaces dexron. Any comments?
I believe it is available in 10wt and 20wt, I live in PA.
I believe it is available in 10wt and 20wt, I live in PA.
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Engine + Driveline / New, assistance greatly appreciated..
« on: January 11, 2010, 04:03:49 PM »Quote from: DesktopDave;84441
Those lines have to be perfect...no leaks.
Definitely a must fix item.
FWIW, my OBC "dings" at 37 degrees F.
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Engine + Driveline / New Car: BIG cold start problems
« on: January 05, 2010, 04:35:42 PM »
Have you taken a really, really good look at your intake bellows yet. I see you have been fighting this for almost a year. If there are any cracks at all it will cause similar symptoms. 30 bucks for a new one to remove it from the suspect list, unless you have already done so.
I bought an AFM after my codes were read only to find a crack in my bellows, which was in fact the root of the problem.
Only trying to help, if you already replaced it or are 100% sure yours is good disregard my post.
I bought an AFM after my codes were read only to find a crack in my bellows, which was in fact the root of the problem.
Only trying to help, if you already replaced it or are 100% sure yours is good disregard my post.
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Suspension / Front Strut Bars
« on: January 05, 2010, 05:43:55 AM »
Did E30's come with an Xbrace? If not, is it an option? I was looking into a strut bar for my E36, after some research it seems an Xbrace is recommended first...
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Engine + Driveline / haha, its me again... my engine is making a loud screaching noise
« on: January 04, 2010, 04:34:26 PM »
I would guess either the Alternator or possibly the battery. How are the battery connections? Bad connections at the battery can cause all kind of grief.
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Engine management / Runs rough when cold until engine is warm.
« on: December 26, 2009, 11:03:53 AM »
If it turns out you need an AFM, PM me. I picked up a spare.
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Engine + Driveline / New Car: BIG cold start problems
« on: December 23, 2009, 06:47:20 AM »
I had the same problem. My Snap-on dealer read my codes and the AFM and O2 was flagged. A new AFM is around 600 bucks, OUCH! I bought a serviceable Bosch AFM on Ebay. Believe it or not, once it got really cold here I finally noticed a crack in my intake bellows that I couldnt see previously. I taped it up as a temp fix until my new one gets here. Completely fixed my cold idle and surging problem! Under 30 bucks from Pelican. If you decide you want to replace your AFM, I have a spare. I would definitely try a new intake bellows before you spend any more money or time. Unless yours is new. It is the flexible link between the AFM/airbox which is solidly mounted to the body and the engine which naturally moves around a bit, especially at start up and shut down. Over time they deteriorate andstart to crack. I couldnt even see the cracks in mine until a couple days ago.
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Engine management / Cold idle stalling, need some advice plz.
« on: December 23, 2009, 06:36:45 AM »
Boy do I feel dumb. It took the cold weather to for me to notice the enormous crack in my intake bellows. I taped it up as a temp fix until my new one arrives. Completely solved my cold idle problem and surging in first gear. Figures, I just bought a serviceable Bosch AFM on ebay. Im going to install it and see if my fuel mileage changes, if not I have a good spare. I may even sell it if someone needs it.
I also ordered a K&N air filter, temp sensor and O2 sensor with my new intake bellows from Pelican. Even after the AFM purchase and my Pelican purchase, I am several hundred dollars under what I expected. I think I'll splurge and get some new headlights from DDM with the leftover funds and possibly a new water pump and FDM kit from understeer.
I also ordered a K&N air filter, temp sensor and O2 sensor with my new intake bellows from Pelican. Even after the AFM purchase and my Pelican purchase, I am several hundred dollars under what I expected. I think I'll splurge and get some new headlights from DDM with the leftover funds and possibly a new water pump and FDM kit from understeer.
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Engine management / Cold idle stalling, need some advice plz.
« on: December 13, 2009, 11:01:55 PM »
I found a barely used Python MAF, much cheaper than the remanufactured factory MAF on pelican. I see that Python is an aftermarket unit and is rated as poor on pelican. Any thoughts?
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