Messages

1

General Topics / The mess under the intake

« on: January 16, 2011, 07:35:15 PM »

Under the rubber elbow between the air meter to the throttle body where the crankcase ventilation normally ends.

I am having trouble understanding this. Is your path the same as this:





I think you're saying your valve cover goes to the air intake accordion and your ICV goes to the nipple under the throttle body, which would be different from these pics.
Also, can you clarify for me what size vacuum hose you're running from the valve cover and from the ICV?

2

Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: December 13, 2010, 05:10:52 PM »

I've read this thread a few times through and I think this is the proper injector:

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/?itemid=74

The first listing, the 710. I've also seen some people using the 700, but the most definitive option seems to be the 710. The question I haven't tripped over the answer to is whether the same injector part # such as 0280155710 can have different # like 19#, 22#, etc. Many of the posts discuss what # will work with an m42 but I couldn't conclude if a single part number will have one #value.

I feel like I missed something obvious so feel free to duh me.

3

General Topics / The mess under the intake

« on: December 09, 2010, 05:07:00 PM »

Is it necessary to order both intake gaskets, the upper and the lower, to do this heater plate and hose delete if I'm not going to do my injectors also? I've never had my intake off and I drive it daily so I am making sure I get my parts order square before I do the project. I've read the entire thread but I'm not sure I need to take off the lower intake if I'm not going to do my fuel injectors.

Update: Upon further reading I see that the plastic coolant pipe is inaccessible without removing the lower section of the intake. Question redacted.

4

Engine + Driveline / Fuel pump kaput?

« on: October 19, 2010, 05:11:07 PM »

HOLY SHIT BMA is $$$:

Thanks dude. I saw the TRE in the fuel pump DIY thread, but thought there might be one that fit naturally to the E30 bracket. I'll do the mod to my bracket and use the TRE. I ain't paying $250+ for a fuel pump. Come on.

5

Engine + Driveline / Fuel pump kaput?

« on: October 18, 2010, 02:46:04 PM »

Do you have a source or part number for that VDO OEM? Can I glom off your research plz?

6

How-To's / DIY Fuel Pump Replacement

« on: October 03, 2010, 09:25:31 PM »

Check the crank position sensor & FP relay before you condemn the pump.  The car will not energize the pump relay if the CPS is giving no signal.  It's a safety feature, admittedly a dumb one.

You should see about 680 ohms IIRC on the crank sensor.  You can test the pump by pulling the relay & jumping terminals 30 & 87 with a short bit of wire.  It should start running with the ign. switch in pos. I or II.

I've got 12v at the pump plug when I turn the ignition on to start. Newb with a multimeter, but it looks like 800 ohms on the crank sensor and 1800 on the cam sensor. Those readings with 12v at the pump when I turn the ignition tells me the sensors and the relay are working, and the pump is bad. I guess I need to put power straight to the pump and see if it does anything.

Hope this wasn't a thread hijack...never hurts to bump a DIY!

7

How-To's / DIY Fuel Pump Replacement

« on: October 03, 2010, 04:09:17 PM »

I'm suspecting my fuel pump is why I'm not running. I died while running and I've got spark but no gas. I've got the cover off the fuel pump. Should I hear anything out of it if I click the key back and forth?

8

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / REAL Cold Air Intake

« on: July 20, 2010, 04:14:00 PM »

Its not changing the fuel, I ran several tests on the dyno with a data logger and if anything changed it was so small that I couldn't see it. I also played around with fuel pressure and found that 43 psi (3bar) was not optimal and picked up 10 horsepower and a falter curve by bumping it up to 50 psi.

Since you use a dyno, could you address this post: http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9223&highlight=lightweight+flywheel

Particularly, bmwman91's absolute insistence that going to a high-flow air filter and cold air barrier offers no improvement over stock.

9

Engine + Driveline / cat heat shield rusted away

« on: June 25, 2010, 04:33:45 PM »

Yes, remove the shield and you're done. I did this more than a year ago and there are no downsides (the car has a second heat shield above the cat).

Oh really? I started to snip it off to have a look, but I was afraid of going any further because the element in a cat obviously gets red hot and I don't want that on my kiester. I assumed a dead heat shield would be a new cat, but I thought of trying to shield it on the undercarriage side with something. If you deleted your shield and kept using the cat with no problem then I'll try it.

10

Engine + Driveline / cat heat shield rusted away

« on: June 24, 2010, 12:24:15 PM »

I have been using a stock cat with an aftermarket cat back exhaust with a magnaflow muffler. The heat shield on my cat converter has broken free because the weld spots look like they're completely rusted away. There's nothing left to weld, so I think I have to replace the factory cat. Any suggestions?

11

Engine + Driveline / Trying to keep euro sound!!??

« on: June 24, 2010, 12:13:13 PM »

I have an aftermarket stainless cat-back with a magnaflow muffler with no silencer that I inherited from the prev own. It's louder than stock and throaty with no vuvuzela ricey buzz or fart. It sounds like a BMW.

12

General Topics / e36 steering rack swap sluggish & vague

« on: April 26, 2010, 09:17:49 PM »

This is the rack I have. The part number raised into the metal of the body is 7852 501 174 042. The riveted metal plate has another number printed on it: 7852 955 227, another number stamped on it: 068296, and what I presume to be a date of manu stamped on it: 0495. I am using the short coupler off my airbag 91 318is.

13

General Topics / e36 steering rack swap sluggish & vague

« on: April 20, 2010, 04:51:57 PM »

If the alignment was never re adjusted on the E36 tie rods, your wheels will be extremely far toe out. They need to be brought back in for the narrower E30.

bump to bring it up again because this is definitely not right. My steering is much too vague for this to be correct. The response is immediate, but the input from the rack is minimal. It's like I'm driving a 1980 300D. When I make a u-turn with the wheel turned to lock it still has the incredibly small turn radius of an e30 which seems to indicate that the ratio is correct. So I'm baffled why large steering wheel input has little steering input.

My setup: e36 rack 3.2 lock to lock with e36 tie rod ends; vert front sway bar/H&R rear 18mm; bilstein sports; H&R Sport springs; AKG poly control arm, subframe, rear swing arm and diff bushings. I bought a new u-joint coupler that joins the column shaft to the rack but didn't use it because the original seemed to be perfect with no play when I had it out.

tjts1 or anyone, can you tell me what would be the effect if my toe was too wide? Could it cause vague steering? I had it aligned at a good shop and it tracks perfectly but I wonder if they were thrown off by the model of the rack or if they just made a mistake. One thing that surprised me is that they didn't center the rods up on the rack. I had to eyeball it just to drive it to the shop and that caused the tie rods to be offset to one side. I guess I can test the toe myself by making equal turns on both sides, but if anyone can tell me if improper toe could deaden my steering, I'll listen.

14

WTB/WTT / WTB Replica M3 wheels

« on: April 15, 2010, 04:17:14 PM »

contours II are the way to go there S3x!

Cool! Hook me up! :p

15

WTB/WTT / WTB Replica M3 wheels

« on: April 14, 2010, 04:23:05 PM »

For example,



or



I don't know that I've ever seen the e46 wheels in a replica, but I thought I'd throw it out there.