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1

General Topics / Re: My sons car again??! :)

« on: May 27, 2014, 01:28:47 PM »

so i just tested my CPS (finally got a working DMM) and mine is at 530 +/- 10 ohms. would this indicate a faulty sensor, causing no engine turnover or fuel prime?

Nope, supposed to be 500-600 so yours seems good.
My engine would turn over, just no spark.
So yours does nothing when you twist the key in ignition? No fuel pump(Remove back seat bottom if you can't hear it clearly), no clcking from starter, how about dash lights?

i can hear 1 click from the starter when i go to ignition on as well as off, and i hear a quick "3" clicks when i go this as well to ignition on. can not hear the pump priming unless i jump the relay via paperclip. all lights work flawlessly and do not dim when i go to turn it over.
I just went down and tested a few electrical components, here is what i found:
1) 12V @ main relay point with key in start and without. Continuous.
2) 12V @ fuel relay with key in start.
3)12.3V @ starter no key inserted.
4)12V @ starter with key in start.
--- both tests utilizing the big strap on the starter (M42 starter, strap on driver side of the starter) and a viable ground.
5) 11.8V @ fuel pump between pins 1/3 key in start.

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General Topics / Re: My sons car again??! :)

« on: May 26, 2014, 10:29:22 PM »

so i just tested my CPS (finally got a working DMM) and mine is at 530 +/- 10 ohms. would this indicate a faulty sensor, causing no engine turnover or fuel prime?

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General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 26, 2014, 10:26:22 PM »

quick update. finally got my hands on a working DMM and the CPS installed is at 530 +/- 10 ohms. could this be the culprit?!

4

General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 26, 2014, 07:23:57 PM »

Checked for spark and there was nothing. had the battery charged and its at 100%, fusible link is good, i can hear the starter "click" when i turn the ignition "ON". i can hear the Main Relay click when i turn the ignition "ON" and stomp test has shown 1444 before and after the battery was removed and charged.

when i pulled the spark plugs they are yellowish in color, and i could not smell the presence of fuel. i also removed the small hose from the FPR and attempted to start the car to see if any fuel would come out and there was nothing.

this is what the spark plugs look like. this cylinder #1:

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General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 26, 2014, 12:56:51 PM »

fusible link was intact and in rather good condition to my surprise.

EDIT: reinstalled the battery at a FULL 100% charge and still nothing. knocked the starter gentyly to try and free the solenoid if it was stuck and nothing. i need to go buy a DMM

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General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 26, 2014, 12:56:19 PM »

If the motor isn't turning over at all, there's no need to test the plugs or the injectors - fix the starter or troubleshoot that circuit.

took the battery in for a load test and they said it was only at 60%, and the starter draws a considerable bit of power from the battery when you go and give it the ignition. picking it up now at 100% charge so hopefully thats the issue. i'll give the start a bit of a knock about as well to see if the solenoid is stuck as well.

7

General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 25, 2014, 11:17:53 PM »

From your other thread - how to test the crank sensor: Get a digital multi-meter (DMM) and switch it to the resistance test setting (ohms). Be sure the butt ends of the probe wires are plugged into the proper sockets on the DMM. Unplug the crank sensor wire "pigtail" out of the wiring harness, and put probe tips into pin sockets 1 & 2. You should see a steady reading of about 680 ohms. If you have the DMM set to KOhms, it'll be 0.680 instead. K means x 1,000 on a DMM as well.

Don't do a resistance test (has the horseshoe sign - ohms) or continuity test (sometimes called diode) test on the wires in the socket, or on any wires that go back to the DME. It can damage the DME permanently. Avoid doing those tests on anything digital, computerized, or solid state. Only test voltage coming from the DME (or other solid state components) if the Bently or BMW electrical troubleshooting manual (ETM) specifically requests it.

I see what you're saying about the sensor bolt...makes more sense now. I'd focus on the crank sensor; it's a known problem with the car...once you get that tested and/or replaced we can go further with troubleshooting.

While you're doing work on it, I'd still recommend doing a load test on the battery at a competent local shop. They'll usually do it for free. You can easily determine the battery voltage, but amps are far harder to test. I've had batteries with a nice healthy 12VDC test reading, but as soon as you put any really heavy load on them (like an 80 amp starter), they die.

just replaced the CPS and it didn't seem to change anything. i am still not getting any sort of crank over or fuel prime whatsoever.

I've had new parts that were bad; get a DMM and test both parts. If they're good, keep it as a spare or sell it off here.

But you're saying that the motor won't spin at all, right? The car has power, all the lights turn on, but the starter won't spin. If so, do the lights all dim when you turn the key to start position?

correct. the lights are as bright as they've been when the car was running before the problem. the lights don't flicker or dim out. i almost want to think its fuel related, but with the motor not attempting to spin at all... i'm at a loss. could it be fowled plugs? how would you go about grounding one to test for spark? pull one out, connect it to the wire and put it against a ground, say the body?

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General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 25, 2014, 09:33:06 PM »

From your other thread - how to test the crank sensor: Get a digital multi-meter (DMM) and switch it to the resistance test setting (ohms). Be sure the butt ends of the probe wires are plugged into the proper sockets on the DMM. Unplug the crank sensor wire "pigtail" out of the wiring harness, and put probe tips into pin sockets 1 & 2. You should see a steady reading of about 680 ohms. If you have the DMM set to KOhms, it'll be 0.680 instead. K means x 1,000 on a DMM as well.

Don't do a resistance test (has the horseshoe sign - ohms) or continuity test (sometimes called diode) test on the wires in the socket, or on any wires that go back to the DME. It can damage the DME permanently. Avoid doing those tests on anything digital, computerized, or solid state. Only test voltage coming from the DME (or other solid state components) if the Bently or BMW electrical troubleshooting manual (ETM) specifically requests it.

I see what you're saying about the sensor bolt...makes more sense now. I'd focus on the crank sensor; it's a known problem with the car...once you get that tested and/or replaced we can go further with troubleshooting.

While you're doing work on it, I'd still recommend doing a load test on the battery at a competent local shop. They'll usually do it for free. You can easily determine the battery voltage, but amps are far harder to test. I've had batteries with a nice healthy 12VDC test reading, but as soon as you put any really heavy load on them (like an 80 amp starter), they die.

just replaced the CPS and it didn't seem to change anything. i am still not getting any sort of crank over or fuel prime whatsoever.

9

General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 21, 2014, 06:00:38 PM »

When you say 'crank' do you mean that it won't turn over at all? By 'crank' or 'turning over' I'm assuming that the starter is spinning the motor, regardless of the motor 'catching' or 'firing up.'

The starter circuit is pretty simple, it's in the BMW electrical troubleshooting manual. You should D/L both of those before further testing. If the key isn't engaging the starter to spin the motor, you'll need to track that wiring fault down. It's likely the ignition switch has broken internally, or a wire has come loose from the starter.

If the motor is turning over but not catching, then check the CPS. It must be close to 680 ohms on pins 1 & 2. The guys at R3v are correct - the DME will not power up the fuel pump relay if it doesn't 'see' a crank signal from the CPS. It's an intentional design, a built-in safety system from Bosch.

Also be sure that the CEL is lighting up when you turn on the car. If you don't see the CEL briefly illuminate when you turn the key to pos2, there's a possibility that the bulb it burned out, the fusible link in the trunk is burned out, or (rarely) that the DME is damaged.

If you have an A/C compressor, that bracket will have to be removed briefly to R&R the CPS. The fastening bolt isn't a torx, it's a hex. Use an allen key or bit to remove it if possible - you don't want to strip it.

when i turn the ignition to on (Key on ignition off) and go to crank it over it does nothing. there is no turn over or anything. i've done the stomp test and i get 1444; which from my understanding that is a no faults code.

I was saying i was going to have to use a Torx bit because the hex us already rounded out, presumably from the PO, but i have a replacement to use so i am not too concerned with destroying it as long as it comes out. i tried vice grips and i just didn't have enough room to get a good "bite" on it to maneuver it about.

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General Topics / Re: My sons car again??! :)

« on: May 21, 2014, 03:37:37 PM »

its amazing what a little elbow grease, time and effort can do to paint; car looks amazing.

if i may inquire (and mind you im not exactly an electrical engineer) how do you test the ohms on the sensor? is it as simple as unplugging it and testing the connector on the sensor, or testing the socket it would connect to? i am having a similar problem (except mine just wont start. no crank, no fuel pump prime)... it happened suddently and it now jsut sits there giving me a sad look

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General Topics / Re: 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 21, 2014, 03:32:09 PM »

Check your battery. Should be well over 12VDC given ambient temperatures. Have it load tested if possible. If the battery voltage is too low, the unloader relays won't open and the car will appear to be totally dead. No crank, no prime, etc..

You checked the grounding straps off the motor, right?

There is also the possibility that the ignition signal wire (black/yellow stripe) isn't sending from the ignition switch to/from the starter & DME.

Do you have an aftermarket security system? If so, check that too.

Welcome to the 'club!

My first thought was the battery. I attempted to jump it at frist using my other car, to avail. ( i left it hooked up to my running car for approx 10-15 minutes to "charge" the battery) i have power to everything, lights, windows, radio etc... nothing is dim as if the battery were low or going dead.

grounding straps appear to be good and there is no type of alarm system installed. The guys over at R3V seem insistant that it is the CPS, but it just doesnt make sense to me, seems more fuel related... but then again, i guess if its not even cranking its absolutely plausable. Im scarce for time to get to work on it, but i'm going to have to get down on it tonight, try and get a torx bit to tap in and remove the bolt for the CPS sensor to replace that since i've got a spare to try.

i wil also be testing a new spark plug to check for spark tonight as well i suppose.

12

General Topics / 91 318is no crank/no fuel pump prime

« on: May 20, 2014, 03:02:28 PM »

Good afternoon gents. having a bit of an issue with my 91 318is (M42) and from what i gather this seems to be a somewhat common problem with our cars yet, as I searched through older threads on R3V and M42club I havent really found anything that is both a no crank and no fuel prime. most everyone has crank still therefore, here I am. detals below:

I came home late a week ago and there was a brush fire at my apts, Emergency personnel had the street blocked off so i was forced to park up the hill a ways facing down hill (my usual spot is a flat surface). I went the next day to move the car to my apt spot and no go.

1) At first the car cranked as if it was going to turn over then nothing. thought maybe my battery was drained, attempted to jump it and nothing. 2) I get ZERO engine crank and there is NO audible fuel pump prime at this time.
3) I check the relays: pulled the plastic firewall shroud off, switched the 2 orange 4pronge relays with each other and still nothing.
4) I attmepted to jump the fuel relay, front to back with a paperclip. when jumped and i turn the kep to on (KOIO) there is an audible fuel priming noise that is continuous until key is turned to off.
5) talked with some local SOCAL guys via the chat thread and suggested the following: tapping on fuel pump housing with blunt object and possible CPS replacement.
6) went to ecology and pulled a Cam and Crank position sensor from 91 318i donor, unknown condition (visiually looked in good shape) for $20 and yanked the relays as well.
7) tried just the relays, no change. replaced Cam sensor (since its easily reached) no change.
8 ) went to replace the Crank position sensor and came to find the allen head was rounded out (mind you i am now working on the car on the side of a busy street facing down hill, a bit nerve racking i'll admit).

as of this mornign there is still no change. I am utilizing a buddy of mine and my old Disco to pull the car up the hill to my flat parking spot so i can work on it there, and will be trying to hammer in a torx bit to remove the rounded allen and replacing the CPS.

my long winded question would be this: should i be suspecting the CPS or the actual fule pump (possibly in conjuction with the relays) to be the culprit? in my searching most guys have fixed their problem with the CPS, but not without already replacing the fule pump.

lastely, it can be noted that i ahve had the car for about 2 weeks now, and have not driven it often, maybe 5 times, and each time when starting it up, it seemed to crank over slowly... which almost leads me to believe it wasnt getting fuel quick enough (i methodically always turn ignition on to prime to pump and wait for dash lights to illuminate and go off) to ensure there "should be" enough fuel primed in the system. any and all help would be greatly appreciated gents; this issue caused me to miss out on Bimmerfest which was a bit upsetting. thanks again.

-Aaron