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Suspension / strut bar effectivness
« on: April 27, 2009, 09:51:45 AM »
the bad advice and misinformation regarding tower uselessness came from the r3vforum = search strut bar - emre
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Seems I'm the only one that cares about this... Oh well.
I called Bav Autosport to complain to them today that thier strut brace doesn't fit. He was telling me that he has had a lot of people tell him that they won't fit, or won't fit well... etc... They've sent a lot back. So, I showed him something I read on the IE website:
IMPORTANT--The factory book says the distance between the strut towers is 1002.2mm +-2mm (39.5"). Measured from center to center (where the shock sticks thru). We have found many cars that measure about 980mm (38.75"). This leads us to believe BMW made two slightly different unibodies. Therefore we now make two versions of our brace. Please specify model and year, and measure your car to specify the "regular" or "short" brace.
He'd never heard this before... But said he was going to investigate this and may end up trying to make a version of this lover strut tower brace to fit our "shorty" cars!
That would be AWSOME!
I can't weld shit. :p
That's for people like you. I don't mess with metal work, welding or body work AT ALL!
I'm gonna call Bav Autosport on it. I may need to get an adjustable one. But, this bar is REALLY nice, REALLY light, and I REALLY would like to use it.
Just cause the bar doesn't fit doesn't mean you've been plagued with issues m42boy, lol. It could be worse!
I've never heard anything about the air bags. What's the deal? Sorry about the off topic post.
As to manifolds, cracked welds every year seems a bit much. Sounds like a fabbed to spec stainless with some support to the block maybe the way to go from a reliability standpoint. Sometimes the more expensive one is cheaper in the long run. True if you're redoing a flipped stock header every year.
"Cheap at any price!" has two meanings and both probably apply here.
John, I once spoke to you about Gustav's M3 and you said that you were working on some tubular rear trailing arms. I was wondering if you could post some pictures of these to entertain us E30 enthusiest.
The car was sitting on the ground. The mounts are not slotted but the car was run into a curb at one point. There is no noticeable damage, but I guess the whole front end could be tweaked? Any other possibilities?E30 84-91, THERE ARE 2 DIFFERENT CHASSIS TOP STUD WIDTHS, TOWARD THE END OF THE PRODUCTION RUN THEY CHANGED FOR SOME REASON OR ANOTHER BY THE 1 INCH AMOUNT, MOST 95 % OF CARS MEASURE APP. 36 3/16 INCH C-C ACROSS MEASURING THE FRONT PAIR OF 8MM STUDS, I HAVE SEEN 36 1/8 TO 36 3/8 , IF THE CHASSIS HAD SOME PREVIOUS DRAMA [ CRUNCH] MOST TIMES THE BODY SHOP WILL CHANGE OUT THE SHEET METAL BITS - BUT NEGLECT TO PROPERLY PULL THE CORNER INTO SPEC , MEASURE BOTH SIDES OF WHEELBASE AND MEASURE BOTH CASTER ANGLES TO PINPOINT AREA OF HIT,CLOUT,WHACK,ROOTED, OR PUT ON JACK STANDS AND SEE IF IT LAYS FLAT ON ALL 4 SIMILIAR POINTS , OR CHECK THE CORNER WEIGHTS FOR INDUCED TWIST
yeah . . . what's the "Forum Member price"YOU GUYS CAN HAVE 5% DISCOUNT OFF ALL MY BARS WITH $20.00 SHIPPING CHARGE FOR ONE BAR AND $28.00 FOR CAR SETS. THESE BARS ARE STATE OF THE ART ONE PIECE NON HINGED DESIGN, FABRICATED PROPERLY USING DOMESTIC U. S. MATERIALS
John, can you be more specific about the group buy pricing? Are the aluminun strut bars $160/shipped? Also, you recommend the rear bar to go along with the strut bar, what goup buy price could you do for the aluminum strut/rear bar combo?
Thanks again for joining in on this strut bar subject.
Fabby
John if we were to say get 10 people to buy the fronts what kind of price would we be looking at?
HI GUYSA seldom revealed fact in regards to domestic aircraft grade 6000 series weldable aluminum tube it is 1/3 the weight of steel and in a compression load situation it is 2x stronger than steel before yield point, is also by nature is non-corrosive and non-magnetic, so it seems if the strut bar is designed correctly - welded precisely and in compression it would be an advantageous choice for a lite=weight add on load bearing structure
Allow me to explain/clarify the front and rear tower bars i have designed,front is a twin tube of 1in. dia. running across with punch/flared sheet metal shear plate on the top , positioned extreme rear-highest point of engine compartment ,for all type plenum clearances there are 2 types of materials of choice steel or aircraft grade domestic aluminum alloy 6063 t6-511, the end platforms are of the open top 6in. dia. with a 3 5/8 dia inner hole which allows easy access for camber/ dampner adjustments the bar assy. is of the hinge-less 1 piece design without bolted tabs, this is very good for load carrying abilities but can be troublesome on the installation as there is very little margin of variance amongst elderly chassis. front stl5lb alum.3lb rear stl.41/2lb alum2lb design revised and - approved/blessed by gustav stroes-
the rear bar is of same materials but is unique in that ther are 6 1/4 dia.bolts
per side that attatch bar side skirts to wheelhouse transfering 1200 lb. of vertical loads each bolt 6x1200=7200lb shear. this bar is very easy to bolt on-no welding required - but recomended for racers, sold under the name jjmtools ebay = not made in china , does not have carbon fiber scotch tape