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Messages - mark_i

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1
one other point of note.
Remove the thermostat so that you can actually look down to see that the profile gasket is correctly in position.
I was able to do this procedure, but the first time the gasket was not in place and caused overheating.

2
Engine + Driveline / M44 timing case cover on E30 M42??
« on: May 19, 2011, 04:15:51 PM »
to confirm, the later style timing case with a guide in place of the the idler wheel...

It works! engine started first time, sound quieter too

As i mentioned last week, the timing case gasket is metal, torqued up casing using e30 values , no oil or coolant leaks. Much happier now the idler wheel has been eliminated

3
Engine + Driveline / replaced the tensioner, still as loud
« on: May 12, 2011, 04:40:32 PM »
that is the noise an M42 makes before the timing chain/guides/sprockets let go. Plan to get the engine inside and follow the advice above before a $250 repair turns into a $1500 rebuild.

4
Engine + Driveline / M44 timing case cover on E30 M42??
« on: May 12, 2011, 04:12:50 PM »
I am just about to do exactly the same.

I had to buy the correct gasket to seal the newer style timing case to the block.
The gasket is metal, not fibre.

I'll let u know in a week how it goes.

5
Suspension / front wheel hub bearing
« on: January 20, 2009, 02:18:36 AM »
Hi All

Can wheel hub bearings be re-used...?

I removed a front hub bearing from an e30 breakers without much force, installed on my 318is and the bearing noise is worse.
Hub spins freely without resistance or excess movement.

Do the bearing races get wrecked when the bearing is pulled off the axle because I noticed the two bearing halves had separtaed by 2mm?

Thanks, Mark

6
Engine + Driveline / M42 rebuild:new parts and oil circuit priming
« on: December 22, 2008, 02:30:28 PM »
Hi All

Got the timing case welded up and the parts arrived to replace the chain, sprockets and guides. Even installed profile gasket using the feeler gauges.

The new parts look different to the 18 year old originals

1/ the crankshaft sprocket has a rubber seal/ring bonded to the front and rear that almost cushions the chain
2/ the guide rail has an adjustable screw at the top position to align the guide

Normal...?

Also, how to prime the oil circuit?

when the idler gear boss fractured and the teeth chewed into the case, I collected  the grindings from the sump, oil filter housing and the oil pickup screen, hoping that none had entered the gallery, main/crank/cam bearings
But when I rotated the engine on the crankbolt there was a lot of resistance to movement. Eventually freed up with some WD40 on the exhaust valve stems and was able to spin on the starter. I could hear a burp and fresh oil appeared to splash out from the chain tensioner.
The engine had been laid up, under cover since May this year.

7
Hi Everyone. This is exactly the same situation that I have as well.
Last month I posted a thread about my exhaust cam sprocket jumping 7 teeth.
Many of you asked me how the hell could that have happened... at the time I didn't have a clue. Now you know...

I'll get the pictures up if only to show you how similar to ob_318is for this mode of failure was.

8
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M42 exhaust valves
« on: September 22, 2008, 10:51:58 AM »
Hi. Can anyone confirm if the exhaust valve BMW part no. 11341727909 is correct for an M42 head rebuild?
RealOEM gives the part number 11341727151

Thanks, Mark

9
M42 Reference / M42 timing chain
« on: September 05, 2008, 07:14:41 PM »
Quote from: KenCopperwheat;56005
How did it jump?  Which sprocket did it jump on?  Mine chain is super tight.

Crankbolt removal is easy.  Just stick a pin in the flywheel to lock it, and then use a large breakerbar to remove the bolt.


Thanks for the interest

No idea how the chain jumped the exhaust cam sprocket. This happened one morning when cranking the engine on the starter, not on load. Really nasty metal clunking sound and on removal of the rocker cover, the problem was obvious. After I returned the exhaust cam to the correct position, the engine could not be rotated clockwise without a fight and I could see the chain straining and again trying to move off the sprockets. The chain does not have any missing or damaged rollers so I guess the the guides are damaged and the bent valve stems prevent the cam from rotating in sych with the pistons.

To only way to check is to remove the timing covers and the crankbolt is the problem. I tried using a pin to bolt the flywheel  but the torque on the breaker bar was too much and the pin just bent.

I have posted in the wanted section for a replacement head.

10
M42 Reference / Engine failure / timing chain slipped
« on: September 03, 2008, 10:29:10 PM »
my m42 died at 206000km.
Timing chain jumped the exhaust cam sprocket by 7 teeth and bent valves.
Chain tensioner replaced at 193K which fixed the 4000 rpm rattle.

Should have replaced the chain, sprockets and guides that I bought when in Europe last year, but got I spooked by the 270Nm crankbolt removal...

April 1990 e30

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