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Engine + Driveline / Re: oil loss, spewing out black debri from exhaust
« on: March 05, 2014, 06:58:08 PM »
doitover gave you the best advice.
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2
General Topics / Re: 1991 318iS resto
« on: February 26, 2014, 07:00:24 PM »
Norm: Nobody is hounding you. You're the one that dropped the diff on your foot. Even I have never had that pleasure. Keep up the strong work, have fun and best of luck to you.
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General Topics / Re: 1991 318iS resto
« on: February 25, 2014, 08:11:40 AM »
How many miles on the diff? Why lean towards a rebuild if there (most likely) is nothing wrong with the one you got? Replace the output seals and call it a day.
Why did you have your foot under the diff when lowering it? I prefer to use a good floor jack instead of a body part...only gonna' add to your "rebuild costs". You do have a "good" floor jack, right? The one you have in your pics does not fall into that category. You need to get a real 1.5 or 2 or 3 ton jack with a nice big cup that will support/stabilize the diff as you are lowering it. It would appear that you must have tried to balance the diff on the end of that jack as you were lowering it. That wasn't going to work. Using your foot as bump stop as the diff fell off of your jack would not be my idea of a good time. what was the worst thing that was going to happen...you were going to scrape your concrete? In one of my earlier posts I told you to be careful. This is not worth getting injured over. It is all fun and games until...somebody loses an eye. Don't be that guy. I have two Sears 1.5 ton floor jacks. One I have had for 25 years. The other (identical twin) I scored at an auction for $30.00. So, for a grand total of $130.00 I have two good sized floor jacks. If I can score a 3 tonner at an estate auction or yard sale, I would buy it. Ya' gotta' have the right tools for the job. Don't cheap out on the tools. If you are going to continue to play these games of screwing with cars...they will come in handy in the future. I like what you are doing...but it is not worth getting hurt over. To give you an example...in the next 2 weeks I am going to be swapping an automatic transmission on a 1998 Audi A4 Quattro...old one out, new one in. Do you remotely think I would consider using your floor jack at any stage of that project? If you said "yes" you need to hand in your man card and put the tools down...step away from the car. I cannot afford to get hurt doing my hobby. Enough of the lecturing.
As an aside...you can probably find a good take out diff for less than a "true" rebuild. Especially if you are remotely going to consider altering the rear gear ratio.
I like what you are doing. Don't get hurt over it. If you do...you are only going to pay people like me to take care of people like you. And that is OK, too. I have to make a living.
Why did you have your foot under the diff when lowering it? I prefer to use a good floor jack instead of a body part...only gonna' add to your "rebuild costs". You do have a "good" floor jack, right? The one you have in your pics does not fall into that category. You need to get a real 1.5 or 2 or 3 ton jack with a nice big cup that will support/stabilize the diff as you are lowering it. It would appear that you must have tried to balance the diff on the end of that jack as you were lowering it. That wasn't going to work. Using your foot as bump stop as the diff fell off of your jack would not be my idea of a good time. what was the worst thing that was going to happen...you were going to scrape your concrete? In one of my earlier posts I told you to be careful. This is not worth getting injured over. It is all fun and games until...somebody loses an eye. Don't be that guy. I have two Sears 1.5 ton floor jacks. One I have had for 25 years. The other (identical twin) I scored at an auction for $30.00. So, for a grand total of $130.00 I have two good sized floor jacks. If I can score a 3 tonner at an estate auction or yard sale, I would buy it. Ya' gotta' have the right tools for the job. Don't cheap out on the tools. If you are going to continue to play these games of screwing with cars...they will come in handy in the future. I like what you are doing...but it is not worth getting hurt over. To give you an example...in the next 2 weeks I am going to be swapping an automatic transmission on a 1998 Audi A4 Quattro...old one out, new one in. Do you remotely think I would consider using your floor jack at any stage of that project? If you said "yes" you need to hand in your man card and put the tools down...step away from the car. I cannot afford to get hurt doing my hobby. Enough of the lecturing.
As an aside...you can probably find a good take out diff for less than a "true" rebuild. Especially if you are remotely going to consider altering the rear gear ratio.
I like what you are doing. Don't get hurt over it. If you do...you are only going to pay people like me to take care of people like you. And that is OK, too. I have to make a living.
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General Topics / Re: 1991 318iS resto
« on: February 04, 2014, 07:00:13 PM »
The important issue is that you got it out safely. Safety is always paramount. The way I would have done it is to pull the exhaust and intake manifolds. I would have left the tranny attached. Put the car on jacks stands. Run your boom out to max length. I have a chain set up I bought 20-30 years ago. Hook the engine/tranny so that when you left you lift in front of the weight centerline so that the engine tilts up.
As you are jacking the engine up the tail of the tranny will drop. As you are jacking the engine up you can pull the cherry picker forward a little bit at a time. As you are doing so the make sure the oil pan clears the radiator core support. Take it up. All the way up. Pull the jackstands and lower the car. You should be able to maneuver the engine/tranny out without dinging anything.
Now...whats next? Hell if I know but I will make a comment that if you are stabbing in a longer BMW 6 cylinder....You will have to stand the engine on end. Especially if the tranny is hooked up. I did a mock up
using an M30 3.2l out of a 733. With the transmission hooked up. Stand her up. Drop it down. As it was lowered, I had to go back under the car to make sure the tranny was sliding towards the rear of the car.
Once it was in I placed a floor jack under the tranny to lift it up. Slid the engine mounts in and then lowered the block the last few inches.
What ever you are doing have fun. That is what it is all about. It isn't rocket science.
As you are jacking the engine up the tail of the tranny will drop. As you are jacking the engine up you can pull the cherry picker forward a little bit at a time. As you are doing so the make sure the oil pan clears the radiator core support. Take it up. All the way up. Pull the jackstands and lower the car. You should be able to maneuver the engine/tranny out without dinging anything.
Now...whats next? Hell if I know but I will make a comment that if you are stabbing in a longer BMW 6 cylinder....You will have to stand the engine on end. Especially if the tranny is hooked up. I did a mock up
using an M30 3.2l out of a 733. With the transmission hooked up. Stand her up. Drop it down. As it was lowered, I had to go back under the car to make sure the tranny was sliding towards the rear of the car.
Once it was in I placed a floor jack under the tranny to lift it up. Slid the engine mounts in and then lowered the block the last few inches.
What ever you are doing have fun. That is what it is all about. It isn't rocket science.
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General Topics / Re: 1991 318iS resto
« on: February 03, 2014, 10:09:25 PM »
Note to self: Get a proper chain or one of those engine tilting devices that hook to your hoist. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE from exhaust manifold. Better yet, unbolt exhaust manifold. You will be removing it anyways. Even better...pull engine AND tranny as one unit. Hooked up to proper chain or one of those engine tilting devices. OR...pull car out of garage...pull drivetrain (after unbolting exhaust manifold)...then push car back in garage. That way your cherry picker is not trying to bust out of your ceiling like one of those Aliens busting out of your chest. You'll learn. Here is another tip...put the front of the car on some jackstands. That way when you pull the drivetrain...you can stand it up on end and get 'er out. Also...when you put it back together...same thing. I assume you will be doing the clutch. Easier to do it outside of the car. So is reassembly. Then stab it in as a unit. Have fun! But make it easy on yourself.
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Engine + Driveline / Re: How Do YOU Seal The Oil Filter Housing To The Timing Case?
« on: December 17, 2013, 06:58:57 PM »
For the OP: "The Right Stuff". I think that is what it is called. If that won't seal it...you are in deep kim chi. I had a 56 Ford F-100 with the original 223-6. That was the only stuff that would seal the valve cover to the cylinder head and ended that oil leak. Give it a shot.
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Engine + Driveline / Re: How Do YOU Seal The Oil Filter Housing To The Timing Case?
« on: December 17, 2013, 06:55:12 PM »
0-15w Mobil 1? Do you live in the Antarctic?
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Engine + Driveline / Re: So here's the scam.....solved...maybe.
« on: November 28, 2013, 02:34:09 PM »
Since the Packers were taking it in the shorts today, I went out and started checking everything. Dc'd the fuel pump and checked compression..
187-195 across all 4 cylinders. Not great but at least uniform. I check all the electrical things and everything pretty much is in line with
the Bentley manual specs. Find the vacuum gauge...well...note to self...intake manifold vacuum should be one of the 1st tests one does. Period.
I have 10-11 inches of vacuum at idle. Snap throttle and it drops. Let throttle close...back to 10-11. Should be sitting in the 20" range.
If I have a vacuum leak one would think I should be able to hear it, loud and clear. But I have not heard one. I replaced all the hoses under the intake and used clamps on each one. Should be good there. The only place I have not checked is the intake gasket between the lower intake and the cylinder head. That is pretty much going to be the last thing I can check unless somebody else has any thoughts. I think what I really have is a
tired M42. Most likely in need of a rebuild. Wish I had the gauges to do a leakdown test but I will bet it would show tired rings. Not a big deal. When I bought the car I knew it was going to be work in progress. And I did buy it with the intent of doing an engine swap. No loss there. Looks like I will be doing the engine swap sooner than later. I will pull the M42 and set in on the engine stand and tear it down as time permits. But in the meantime...project "dwiesel" will be getting teed up. Will order the new clutch and get that ready to stab in. Thank you to everybody here.
I haven't used the vacuum gauge in a month of Sundays (years and years). A useful tool. And I knew this. Oh well....I had hoped it was something simple but in the back of my mind....
187-195 across all 4 cylinders. Not great but at least uniform. I check all the electrical things and everything pretty much is in line with
the Bentley manual specs. Find the vacuum gauge...well...note to self...intake manifold vacuum should be one of the 1st tests one does. Period.
I have 10-11 inches of vacuum at idle. Snap throttle and it drops. Let throttle close...back to 10-11. Should be sitting in the 20" range.
If I have a vacuum leak one would think I should be able to hear it, loud and clear. But I have not heard one. I replaced all the hoses under the intake and used clamps on each one. Should be good there. The only place I have not checked is the intake gasket between the lower intake and the cylinder head. That is pretty much going to be the last thing I can check unless somebody else has any thoughts. I think what I really have is a
tired M42. Most likely in need of a rebuild. Wish I had the gauges to do a leakdown test but I will bet it would show tired rings. Not a big deal. When I bought the car I knew it was going to be work in progress. And I did buy it with the intent of doing an engine swap. No loss there. Looks like I will be doing the engine swap sooner than later. I will pull the M42 and set in on the engine stand and tear it down as time permits. But in the meantime...project "dwiesel" will be getting teed up. Will order the new clutch and get that ready to stab in. Thank you to everybody here.
I haven't used the vacuum gauge in a month of Sundays (years and years). A useful tool. And I knew this. Oh well....I had hoped it was something simple but in the back of my mind....
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Engine + Driveline / Re: So here's the scam.....
« on: November 26, 2013, 10:25:16 PM »
Boris: yes I did swap the stock injectors out for some Ford injectors. No difference in how the engine runs. It is just perplexing the crap out of me. That is why I am going to start at square one this weekend and try to check every thing one more time.
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Engine + Driveline / Re: So here's the scam.....
« on: November 26, 2013, 01:14:17 PM »
Colin: New spark plugs were installed a couple of weeks ago.
Warsteiner: I hear you about AFM. Have a "new" (to me one on its way). But...I am not sold that this is the problem
new spark plugs. New BavAuto upgrade coils. Different O2 sensor. Different fuel pump. New blue top Coolant temp sensor. New crank position sensor. No catalytic convertor. None of which has made any difference in how the engine runs.
This weekend, I am going back to basics. Pull the plugs and inspect and re-accomplish compression check. Recheck all my vacuum lines. Recheck the IAC.
The latest fly in the ointment is that my oil pressure light comes on after running for a while. Engine makes no bad noises whatsoever and has not changed one bit in how "bad" it runs. I can rev it up to redline (in neutral) and it goes just fine. I can drive the car...I am able to do 60 in 3rd...slip it into 4th and it slows down. Try 5th and the car goes "backwards". Head for a mild incline/grade in the road and the car is a moving road hazard. Going downhill you would never know anything is wrong.
So...as for the AFM...I jump pins 1 and 2 (fluke DVOM)...with the flapper closed it shows 347ohms. Open the door and the resistance increases to 950 ohms but past a certain point it heads back to 347. At wide open it shows 347 ohms. Not certain as to what to make of it but it does parallel another forum members observations. Does this mean AFM bad? Dunno...won't have my replacement until next week.
So it is a back to basics weekend.
Warsteiner: I hear you about AFM. Have a "new" (to me one on its way). But...I am not sold that this is the problem
new spark plugs. New BavAuto upgrade coils. Different O2 sensor. Different fuel pump. New blue top Coolant temp sensor. New crank position sensor. No catalytic convertor. None of which has made any difference in how the engine runs.
This weekend, I am going back to basics. Pull the plugs and inspect and re-accomplish compression check. Recheck all my vacuum lines. Recheck the IAC.
The latest fly in the ointment is that my oil pressure light comes on after running for a while. Engine makes no bad noises whatsoever and has not changed one bit in how "bad" it runs. I can rev it up to redline (in neutral) and it goes just fine. I can drive the car...I am able to do 60 in 3rd...slip it into 4th and it slows down. Try 5th and the car goes "backwards". Head for a mild incline/grade in the road and the car is a moving road hazard. Going downhill you would never know anything is wrong.
So...as for the AFM...I jump pins 1 and 2 (fluke DVOM)...with the flapper closed it shows 347ohms. Open the door and the resistance increases to 950 ohms but past a certain point it heads back to 347. At wide open it shows 347 ohms. Not certain as to what to make of it but it does parallel another forum members observations. Does this mean AFM bad? Dunno...won't have my replacement until next week.
So it is a back to basics weekend.
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Engine + Driveline / Re: 318is not starting
« on: November 24, 2013, 09:57:07 AM »
Just an observation...although I am having troubles with my e30 318is...it will start and idle. If I disconnect my AFM it shuts down immediately. Granted, you might have fuel pump issues...based on my observation I am willing to bet you won't get it started without the AFM in place. Just my .02 worth. Good luck.
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Engine + Driveline / Re: So here's the scam.....
« on: November 23, 2013, 05:23:35 PM »
Time for the weekend update...I would like to thank the BMW engineers as it was rather easy to pull the catalytic convertor but...that was/is not the problem. Pulled the cat and was looking into from the outlet of the cat. Took me a few minutes...(little slow on the uptake) and then I realized...the cat had been cored already. Put it back together. Fired it up. No change/improvement. Different O2 sensor...no change/improvement. No CEL. No idea. Perplexing to say the least. At least I figured out why it sounded like one of the many rice grinders with a fart can that run around town. Oh well...there you have it.
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Engine + Driveline / Re: Hello need help Please!!!
« on: November 23, 2013, 05:11:25 PM »
I could be wrong...but looks to me like you are in the market for a new engine. Looks to me like you punched a hole in your block.
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Engine + Driveline / Re: 318is not starting
« on: November 21, 2013, 05:54:21 AM »
One other thought...if you don't have the AFM/airbox in line, you are most likely to have open lines to the mess under the intake. This would equate to a massive vacuum leak. Which is not going to help your cause as far as trying to get it started. Try this...open the throttle body; squirt some either in there; try starting the engine. It should at least kick over. But I am still of the opinion that you are not going to have success without correct AFM in line.