Just a few things off the top of my head...I don't want to sound pedantic so ignore anything you already know. It's not that hard, but I recall having the same anxiety when I pulled mine apart the first time.
I like to use a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or even WD40 to make disassembly easier.
You'll only need to replace the middle gasket, as mentioned. You likely won't need to disconnect the throttle cable, just put a rag on your windshield and rest the intake up there.
Once you get the manifold apart, stuff two shop rags/t-shirts/paper towels into the intake tubes. Dropping a washer or nut into the lower intake isn't a lot of fun.
I like to use a single-edge razor blade to remove what's left of the paper gasket but a gasket scraper might be a better idea since the steel blade will easily scratch the manifold surface.
The gaskets are only thick paper, you'll put them on dry. They don't have a top & bottom, ignore any printing. I avoid silicone RTV (make-a-gasket) whenever possible unless recommended by the manufacturer.
Be sure when you reassemble the manifold that you set the upper part onto the locating dowels properly before you start to tighten fasteners. There are two of them, part #6 on the drawing. Kudos for getting into RealOEM, BTW!
After you have the upper manifold pre-assembled onto the dowels properly, tighten the fasteners in steps...like get them all hand-tight, then go ever them all again with a ratchet wrench to do the final tightening. They are small fasteners, you won't need much strength to tighten them properly. I believe the spec for high-strength M7 & M8 fasteners (like those on the upper manifold) is only about 15 foot-pounds. Measure your wrench & estimate the force. A 12" long wrench will only require 15 pounds at the end of the handle to properly secure the fasteners.
I know that the bolts use 10, 12 & 13 mm heads, but all metric fasteners are designated by the thickness of the threaded portion. Once you're done with this job...you'll be ready to head on under the car to loc-tite the upper oil pan bolts!
Great, many thanks for your detailed reply. There is little or no information or advice wasted on me! Hopefully, the leak is coming from the fuel hoses, but I do have O rings for fuel injector and FPR as I've heard that fuel leaks can also be caused by corroded O rings.
I do also have a small oil leak, so I guess tightening up the oil pan bolts underneath the car would be a good idea for this?
Gasket will be in the post today, for delivery tomorrow, so I will attempt the work then!
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