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Messages - alexxander.foster

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1
Engine + Driveline / Persistant overheating... already searched...
« on: October 05, 2013, 02:31:14 PM »
Hello!

I am a new owner of a severely neglected 318is and I'm dealing with a stubborn overheating situation.  I've searched and searched for similar symptoms on the various bmw forums but to no avail.  I'm hoping you guys can help.

It started after I replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and re-routed the throttle body heater hoses.  The car's cooling system was always rock solid prior to opening up the cooling system, now it wont operate in the correct range.  The car has a fairly predictable overheating pattern:
- the car comes up to operating temp normally
- sits at normal operating temp for between 5 and 15 minutes depending on ambient temp
- the car begins to climb past 1/2 in incremental "jumps"
- the engine temp stops climbing between 3/4 and red
- it takes another 5 minutes for the car to reach the point between 3/4 and red
- revving the engine speeds up overheating to about 3 minutes, but the temp does not climb any higher

I've been bleeding the cooling system via the following procedures:
- turn cabin heater to full hot and fan speed to "1"
- remove the expansion tank cap
- fill to cold line
- start the engine
- fill again
- open bleeder briefly
- rev motor briefly

This is my fourth day of trying to bleed the cooling system.  I've already replaced the radiator, checked for leaks, and replaced the water pump (not by choice -one of the tabs broke on re-installation after inspection).  I also pulled out the thermostat and tested its operation in a pot of boiling water.  It opened and closed about 5 times without drama (though I did not test the opening against a thermometer).  The thermostat looks to have been recently installed and is in very good shape with the 92 deg C stamped on it.  I've also been keeping a very close eye on the exhaust.  There doesn't appear to be anymore moisture coming from the tail pipe than usual.  It also doesn't have any unusual odors -it just smells like burnt premium gas.  Additionally, I'm running a new fan clutch.  The electric fan on the car was damaged beyond repair so I removed it until I could source another one.

I'd consider myself a fairly competent DIY mechanic, but this has got me majorly confused.  Can I get some advice on how to proceed?  Anything would be greatly appreciated.

2
Engine management / Re: Another High Idle Thread...
« on: September 29, 2013, 02:00:38 AM »
thank you bmwman91.  I suppose that's probably the most appropriate next step.  Perhaps I can find someone with a good running M42 near me who would let me switch ECUs for 15 minutes just to rule out the issue.

Regarding the burned up DME components, I'm not quite sure what to make of them.  Another member send me pictures of his DME so I was able to figure out what their capacitance values were suppose to be.  I carefully removed each capacitor from the circuit board and tested them.  All of them were cooked on the outside, but came back well within spec -actually they came back above spec considering they're 20+ years old.  I'm planning on replacing them anyway since they're 19 cents per piece, but I have my doubts.

3
Engine management / Another High Idle Thread...
« on: September 28, 2013, 11:34:02 PM »
Hello!

So I recently acquired an e36 318is from my father.  Unlike myself, my father absolutely hates cars and drives all his vehicles into the ground.  My poor 318is is in bad shape and need of some love.  Most of the problems are coming along smoothly, but I am totally stuck on a stubborn high idle issue.  Hopefully you guys can help me out here.

I have no idea how the high idle issue started but its been going on for at least 5 years.  When the engine is cold it idles just right, but when the car warms up and goes into closed loop, the idle gradually increases to about 1500 rpms.  Additionally, I've noticed that at around 1000 rpms, the car will stumble when revving the motor.    The stumbling occurs regardless of how gradually or rapidly the rpms increase.

Here are some issues that I've identified and repaired/replaced:
- Torn intake manifold gaskets -replaced
- Dry-rotted vacuum lines -replaced
- Cracked IAC supply hoses -replaced
- Cracked intake boot -replaced
- Clogged IAC -replaced
- Torn wires to IAC -repaired
- Blown exhaust manifold gaskets -replaced
- Cracked exhaust manifold (cylinder 3 & 4) -repaired (welded)
- Sluggish acceleration -replaced fuel filter
- Replaced engine coolant temp sensor
- Bypassed throttle body heating block

I've tested the following sensors per the Bentley manual:
- Throttle position sensor
- Cam position
- Crank position

These are issues I've not yet been able to tackle:
- Burned capacitors found on DME circuit board
(the burned capacitors were part of the IAC circuit and the DME relay circuit)
- Cracked housing on both knock sensors
- Oil change (I know I know, but sometimes it matters so I figured I'd put it down)
- Test for blown head gasket
- Check spark plugs
- Test plug wires
- Test DME relay
- Test fuel pressure
- Test fuel pressure regulator

The car doesn't appear to be eating coolant and the exhaust just smells like exhaust (i.e., no coolant smell).  I've disconnected the fuel pressure regulator from the throttle body and revved the engine but saw no change.

Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks guys!

4
Engine management / Re: Burned DME, Pictures Needed...
« on: September 28, 2013, 10:47:14 PM »
That'll do nicely!  Thank you very much!  Parts already ordered.

5
Engine management / Re: Burned DME, Pictures Needed...
« on: September 27, 2013, 01:40:42 AM »
Fantastic!  Thank you for checking!

6
Engine management / Burned DME, Pictures Needed...
« on: September 26, 2013, 06:05:21 PM »
Hello!

I'm new to this forum so forgive me if I breech protocol.

I've been having stubborn idle issues on my 92 318is, so I decided to take a peak at my DME.  To my surprise I found three capacitors were burned pretty bad.  The capacitors are a part of the following circuits:
- 12V supply (pin 26)
- DME relay (pin 54)
- DME relay control (pin 27)

I'd like to repair this, but I need to know what their part numbers are so I can find out what their capacitance values are.  Would some kind soul be willing to take apart their DME and snap a close up picture for me?  I need to know what the letters read so I can figure out what capacitor value each one is suppose to be.

I need a picture of the left, bottom side of the board near the header.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks!

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