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Messages - Rogan

Pages: [1] 2
1
Engine + Driveline / 100% water in cooling system - Okay?
« on: November 02, 2008, 07:35:21 PM »
coolant does raise the boiling temp, as well as aid in heat transfer, as it reduces the surface tension of plain water.  But I do agree, it shouldn't affect anything.  Drag cars can't run antifreeze, and I know first hand that their water temps go up and quick..  of course that isn't a sustained temp, but still.  I think you'll be fine for the short duration, though.

2
Engine + Driveline / MAF Conversion kit avail
« on: November 02, 2008, 07:30:52 PM »
Drat...
Guess I'll have to go some sort of standalone then, eh?  prolly for another thread, though..

3
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / turbos engines nd etc i need help
« on: November 02, 2008, 07:27:52 PM »
will head studs help with the headcrack issue?  is it a problem of the boost lifting the head?  
BoostedE30, what EMS are you on?

4
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / turbos engines nd etc i need help
« on: November 02, 2008, 07:23:24 PM »
will head studs help with the headcrack issue?  is it a problem of the boost lifting the head?  
BoostedE30, what EMS are you on?

5
Engine + Driveline / MAF Conversion kit avail
« on: November 01, 2008, 07:26:18 PM »
I guess Scottie hasn't posted back in this thread in awhile, eh?  I know him from the 745i boards, when I was on them a few years ago, with my '85 745i turbo.  He had a phenomenal setup for them, back then.  I can only imagine what he could/would do for the M42, given the time..
I, personally, want to go Speed Density.  One day, maybe I'll start on my SMT6 w/MAP install/conversion..  I want to go turbo, so I'd prefer SD over metered intake system.

6
Engine management / Oil Service Light
« on: November 01, 2008, 07:05:12 PM »
it's a bank of LEDs soldered to the SI board, not just a bulb. :(

7
Engine + Driveline / tensionner question
« on: November 01, 2008, 06:58:04 PM »
The answer for that is relative to how long it's been in need of replacement, but there's no standard answer.  Since the tensioner is so easy to change, it's best to do it right away, before the chain 'jumps' teeth.  then it's done.  If it does, count on replacing the head and possibly pistons..

8
Suspension / E36 Steering Rack Swap?? Details...
« on: November 01, 2008, 04:35:48 PM »
no worries.  Hope it helps (not my thread, just in my DIY faves list.)

9
Suspension / E36 Steering Rack Swap?? Details...
« on: November 01, 2008, 12:01:10 PM »

10
Electrical / Twitchy little guages.
« on: November 01, 2008, 11:52:26 AM »
my temp gauge would 'flick' between 3/8 and 5/8..  about once every 20-30 sec, back and forth..
When I took the cluster out, I found the brass 8mm nut on the back of the gauge to be loose.  tightened it, and the problem has yet to return..

11
Electrical / right rear window not functioning
« on: November 01, 2008, 11:48:52 AM »
clean the switch contacts.  take it apart, take a little sandpaper, and clean the corrosion off the brass tabs.
fixes it about 99% of the time.

12
Transaction Feedback / George Graves (from r3vlimited)
« on: November 01, 2008, 11:41:08 AM »
I have bought both the dimmer, and the OBC temp sensor from george.  fast shipping, reat communication!  will definitely buy again from this guru of the e30 trinkets!

13
Exterior / Fog Light Restoration
« on: November 01, 2008, 11:37:40 AM »
350*F wow!  that seems high (hot) to me, but i haven't tried the fogs before.  my WRX headlights (all plastic) took a low 225*F for 10 mins, and came right apart.  Prolly different with glass lenses, tho..

14
Interior / Delay interior light relay, help
« on: November 01, 2008, 11:33:54 AM »
Is it a georgegraves unit, or OE e36 piece?

15
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Building a 400HP capable M42
« on: November 01, 2008, 11:23:42 AM »
Quote from: deltaneo1;58601
I was talking more about the intercooler then the turbo....
Originally Posted by deltaneo1  
well you could look into maybe getting a turbo of a volvo and intercooler too..Alot of people take the intercooler off those cars and use them because there alot bigger then there stock ones and alot cheaper...turbo you could get from alot of places but you might have to rebuild one or fab up the header to take it...

well, a volvo stock intercooler, from such as a 740 or so would struggle to support anywhere near 400hp.  I ran one on my old Merkur, years ago, with a Super60 Garrett, and at 24psi, I had a 4psi drop across the Volvo fmic.
and wriggled a scant 356whp using it, on a 2.3L..  
edit:  then it blew the plastic endtanks off!


as for your other post snippet:

Quote
but with bigger cam, porting the heads and bigger valves, upgrade chip, high flow cat, bigger throutle body, and shave the heads down to up the compression you could get around there.. without a turbo i would think...

Start by going EMS, deleting the MAF sensor, etc.  
Shave the heads down?  The M42 is 10:1 CR stock.  you want to raise the CR for a boosted application?  You ever fooled with turbo cars?  It's not that you can't turbo at 10:1 CR, you just have to factor in the odds of killing it, which are high.  Remember that shaving the heads also closes the proximity of the cams/crank, thus can throw off the geometry/timing.  Shave enough off, and you'll be chasing your tail for awhile, trying to correct for it - if you even can.  Been there, done that, on an NA motor a long time ago.  Now, I deck the heads just enough to make 'em flat!

My old Civic with B18C swap was 10:1.  I put a T3/T04E .60 on the stock bottom end, with EMS.  The best I could safely get was 310 @ 10psi and a lean 12.5:1 AFR, and that was with 50/50 meth injection on a .7mm nozzle @ 150psi.  The meth injection was the only thing that would allow me to run the AFRs that lean to make that power level.  I also feel the Honda B-series motor is much more efficient than the M42; not that that's a bad thing.  Just seems to have a much better B.S.F.C. than the M42, NA for NA.

I'm not trying to be a prick, but much of your suggestions in this thread are misleading, and/or way too general.  If you've typed incorrectly (which happens, I know), then I do apologize.

The Volvo turbo is a Garrett-based unit (with a non-standard T-3 flange) with a .42AR compressor, and a .48 turbine housing, and flowing roughly in the 200cfm range.  Hardly worth anything over 200hp on a 2.3L, let alone a 1.8.

A 400, or even 300hp 1.8L M42 would take, as previously stated, mucho bucks to pull off reliably.  you're talking forged crank (~500usd), stronger rods (300), pistons(300), lower compression, big injectors (~800cc/70lb/hr, $2-300), head porting (5-600), HVHF fuel pump 255lph (100), MAS or Speed Density conversion, full EMS (600 for MS, 1500 for something else), bigger TB (200), possibly block-work, clutch set (3-400), turbo manifold (5-600), BOV + EWG (700), big, efficient turbo (8-1200), fmic (2-400), fmic plumbing (150-200), wbo2 (300), head studs (150), and more internal parts, probably ranging totals of 4-800usd..
So an off-the cuff rough pricing puts such a build around 8-9000USD, and I'm sure parts have been overlooked here, as well as tuning, at roughly 150/hr for at least 4-6 hrs..

I've went through this process several times; most recently with my Subaru WRX.
I definitely don't know it all, or even most of it, but I can tell you I've spent many dollars, many hours, and broke lots of parts in the past, trying to achieve what shouldn't be done.  Now days, I tend to spend it up front, once, rather than spend less, more times :cool:

Also, as previously stated by GrindCulture, an M50 swap, even turbo'd, will be more torque, more power, for far less money, yet still have the reliability, if done correctly.

M50 working on now, in a 318is




the '69 is friggin sweet, btw!

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