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Messages - BimwadM42

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1
Engine + Driveline / What's the deal with the current OE AFM part?
« on: December 02, 2012, 04:48:03 AM »
I'm far from due for a new AFM, but after reading the thread about the MAF conversion, I got curious about the factory replacement part.

Apparently, the original part has been superceded twice, to one that now uses an adapter lead, and runs about $600(!).

At first, I thought it might be a super-duper updated part, but it just looks like another flow meter with an short wiring harness, not some sort of mass meter conversion.  And if they are requiring cores, what are they doing with them if they're not selling them as replacements?

Heck, for that kind of money, we can hope that bmwman completes his project, and provides a solid-state alternative for less cost.

2
General Topics / Radiator Sludge?
« on: September 25, 2012, 06:28:00 PM »
Prestone orange is their Dexcool formula.

Look into Dexcool, and it can be, to put it kindly, sensitive to certain conditions and react unfavorably with undesirable results, including sludge.

Stick with a HOAT coolant such as the BMW/old Saab/Volvo coolant (G48), or the Mercedes coolant (G05).

3
Engine + Driveline / Starts *too* quickly...and goes downhill from there.
« on: September 04, 2012, 04:15:24 AM »
Interesting comments.

The past couple days have been incident-free.

This is the original alternator, but the regulator is a replacement.  These Valeo alternators were notorious for regulator issues, but the replacement hasn't acted up.  From the data I have, acceptable output range is 13.5 to 14.3 volts.  I don't have a scope, so I couldn't test for diode ripple.

I forgot to mention that after that undervoltage incident, I did pull the alternator, cleaned and checked the regulator, brushes, and ground cable.  The insulation on the chassis end of cable was cracked, with exposed wire, but otherwise seemed intact.  I repaired it with some shrink tubing, but I'll include one on the order next time I get parts.

Unless the charging system acts up again, I'll put that area on the back burner.  Rectifying it would be relatively simple.


I'm more concerned with the recent hot "instant" start stalling.  It has happened before, but only once or twice, which I wrote off as anomalies.  For it to occur two days in a row got my attention. I'll have to look further into the percussion starting thing.

I guess it's a natural consequence of age, but this car has only left me stranded once, when the fuel pump went kaput.  That was easy to diagnose.

The M42 idle/stalling quirks will be more of a challenge. (Have I mentioned the post-start idle dip?)

4
Engine + Driveline / Starts *too* quickly...and goes downhill from there.
« on: September 01, 2012, 05:07:53 AM »
After reading through a bunch of threads trying to match symptoms, it seems like idle issues and valvetrain noises are an inherent part of the M42 ownership experience.

But I've got one I don't think anyone has noted before.

To wit--starting a car, whether cold or warm, usually involves twisting the key, a couple cranks or more, and then the engine fires.

What has happened every so often with my E36 M42 is that, when warm, the engine fires almost immediately after the key twist, and doesn't "need" the cranks.

In the past, this has resulted in situations where the engine just goes directly to the normal 600-850rpm idle speed, no issues.

However, in the more recent past, things have seemingly gone downhill after these quicker "instant" starts.

A couple months ago, the engine started, but evidently due to some unknown issue, resulted in the electrical system running undervoltage, with the radio cutting in and out, and the ABS light coming on, before the Check Engine light eventually came on (and stored an insufficient voltage fault).

However, on the way home, the engine ran and felt completely normal, and all the lights eventually went out before I got home.  Took another test drive after getting home, and all seemed normal.

The following day, I tried to start the car again, and it cranked slowly, like the battery had been drained.  Put it on a charger, and it cranked and started fine afterward.

Thinking the alternator was failing, I tested it at home with a DMM, as well as having it tested by the "load" tester at a parts store.  It passed all tests, with voltage in the 13v range at idle, and 14+ at higher rpm.

The battery had had one deep, deep discharge incident while I was away a couple years ago, so I thought that might have finally caught up with it, but it acted, and has acted fine since then.

No issues in the interim, so I chalked it up to an weird, but isolated incident.


Now, we come to this week, and two days in a row, in the middle of the sequence of stop/starts while running errands, the engine "quick" started, but wouldn't stay running, and stall.  It acted just like when the fuel pump expired a little less than two years ago--start, stumble, and then stall.  Trying to start it again, and manipulating the throttle has gotten it started, and idling, a bit poorly at first, but fine after a few moments.

Subsequent starts on the errands, no problem.  Whatever is happening, it isn't doing so consistently, or at least in a discernible pattern yet.  No faults stored in the DME.

I know E36s, at least, can be subject to what's known as the "car wash syndrome," where starting the car, then running it briefly before shutting it down again can result in a hard/no start condition, like a flooded engine from the old days.  But, these are different conditions, with a warm engine and longer running.

Sorry this has been so long, but any thoughts from the peanut gallery?

I've done the basic checks of the connectors, poked and prodded the relays, and disconnected the battery to clear the DME and reset the adaptive memory.

Next is to clean the (original) ICV, and whatever else might be suggested.  I don't think (hope) the fuel pump has gotten cranky so quickly, but I do make full use of the tank capacity most of the time.

5
Engine + Driveline / What are these hoses for??
« on: July 24, 2012, 06:52:13 AM »
That nipple off the rubber bellows normally connects to a plastic elbow, then a molded hose to the intake side of the idle control valve.  That's where the engine gets its air when the throttle is closed at idle.

Looks like someone replaced the elbow with a tee, and added a branch.  Where does that branch terminate?

6
Engine + Driveline / Oil on spark plugs 1 & 2
« on: July 12, 2012, 07:36:40 PM »
I've had them retain a seal for longer than two years, but eventually, the gaskets harden up, and the washers on the bolts (which really provide the clamping force on the cover) lose their elasticity, and the seepage starts.

It's always cylinder #2 on mine.  My VC has been off four times (2x dealer, 2x me), and all my threads are intact.

If the plug tube seepage is the sole issue, and the gasket is relatively new, apply some black RTV sealant (like Permatex Ultra Black) around the seam between the cover and the head.

In your case, that is a lot on #1; replace the gaskets, and just as importantly, the washers.

7
Engine + Driveline / "enviro friendler" oil filter -- any difference?
« on: July 09, 2012, 09:43:00 PM »
OK, thanks.  I ordered one so I'll discover how it fares on my own.

I've never really looked into how the M42 filter flows, but I guess it goes inward, so the material holding the pleats together is strong enough with a cap?

Also wondered what the perforated outer band around the Mahle filters was for.  Always seemed somewhat flimsy, and would invariably end up sliding downward to the bottom edge during usage.

8
Engine + Driveline / "enviro friendler" oil filter -- any difference?
« on: July 08, 2012, 06:18:49 PM »
Given the option, I've always used the Mahle OX 91D, or the older Mann HU 921 with the metal end caps.

But for whatever reason, it will be easier to source the HU 921X this time, which lacks the metal end caps, and has a plastic core, I believe.

I have full confidence there is no practical difference, and it will be fine, but I wanted to ask anyway.

With as little mileage as I put on the M42 these days, oil changes have become an annual thing, so it will have to sit submerged for a year without coming apart.

9
Engine + Driveline / Fuel pump kaput?
« on: October 18, 2010, 08:30:14 PM »
What I installed was a new VDO E36 pump assembly, including the level sender.  A no hassle replacement.  Readily available from BMA, RM European, Pelican, or any other parts house.

If what you're after is just the pump, for an E30, I'm afraid I can't help you there.

10
Engine + Driveline / Fuel pump kaput?
« on: October 17, 2010, 07:38:35 PM »
To provide some closure, installed a new OEM VDO pump, and the engine fired right up and all is well again.

BMW wants $300+ for an OE pump, so that was never a consideration.

If I had more time to spare, I might have considered putting one of the other pumps into the existing assembly, but I just wanted a no-fuss solution.

I guess I can still do that with the old assembly.  Of note, its pump has soldered leads, while the pump on the new assembly has terminals.

11
Engine + Driveline / Fuel pump kaput?
« on: October 14, 2010, 03:39:32 PM »
Thanks for the tip.  Sounds logical.

Today, found that the engine will crank, but not fire at all.

The pump fuse is OK, and the relay appears to be as well.  I can hear it click then click back when the ignition is turned to the "on" position, as it tries to prime the pump, then shuts off since the engine isn't running.

The connector at the fuel pump gets ~12V while cranking, so the electrical is intact.

Pump still doesn't make any noise whatsoever.

I did note that for the past couple (hot) days, the engine didn't seem to feel "right" while idling.  It was steady, but gave the impression that it was idling tenuously.  Guess it must have been a sign.

The fact that the engine ran fine before, with no spurious symptoms like hesitation, bogging, or no start, leads me to believe it isn't electrical, but mechanical, so I'll go ahead with the pump.  And ease off the endurance tests seeing how far a tank will stretch, with an old, presumably, tired fuel pump.

12
Engine + Driveline / Fuel pump kaput?
« on: October 14, 2010, 02:31:53 AM »
Hey guys,

I'm tired after having a bad day, compounded by a recalcitrant car that left me stranded, but I wanted to throw this out there so I can get some feedback and won't be stranded any longer than I have to.

Long story short:

-Hot day.  E36 edition M42.  Ran normally until today.

-Refuelled car.  When I tried to (warm) start it, it fired and would only briefly maintain a lumpy/misfirey low idle, before petering out and dieing.  Giving it throttle would not rev the engine, and only caused it to die more quickly.  It has on rare occasion done the low idle thing before, but a subsequent restart would work and it would return to normal running.  This time, it became a persistent condition.

-Unplugged ICV to see if forcing it into limp mode would make a difference.  No difference.

-Same with AFM.  No difference.

-Removed back seat cushion and in the Olde English tradition, gave the top of the fuel pump/sender a few knocks with the handle of a screwdriver.  Didn't help.

-Got it flatbedded home.  After recharging the battery, tried a quick retest, and now find that it cranks, but won't fire at all.  When the ignition key is turned to the run position, I can't hear the usual "thump" from the fuel pump priming like I usually do, even with the seat and pump portal cover removed.  Doesn't make a peep.


That leads me to think the pump finally gave up the ghost, or perhaps the fuse or relay is dead, but I was too tired to check them in the darkness.  Will check them, as well as for voltage at the plug when daylight returns.

The pump is original, so it's new well into its teenage years and over 100k miles.

I'm leaning toward ordering a new pump, but wanted to see if anything else is worth considering.

Danke.

13
Engine + Driveline / Coils, spark wires correct seqence :)
« on: December 23, 2009, 03:46:29 PM »
Quote from: dvmotorsports;83487
Should look like this



The OP has an E36, which has the coils arranged differently than the E30 in this photo.

As pictured in the OP's photo, the coils are correct, but the wires, if stock, could be arranged in a much tidier manner.

From '94 on, BMW refined the coil setup even further, with a single input wire from the engine harness, and a smaller, integrated coil pack containing all four coils.

14
Engine + Driveline / my 92-318is turned into a mopad
« on: December 21, 2009, 07:42:56 PM »
Quote from: nickmpower;83363
are you sure that your spark plug wires are correct?


That's what I'm thinking as well.

The "corrected" diagram in the other topic is wrong.

The cylinders are numbered #1-4 front-to-back.

Assuming the car is using the factory-style wiring and routing, unaltered, the coils are #4-1-2-3, front-to-back, and the coil connectors from the engine wiring harness expect them to be in that sequence.

The OE ignition wires are numbered, and the coils are mounted with a small metal plate with the proper sequence.  The only variable is if the wires to the coils have been rearranged; they are not labeled.

15
Engine + Driveline / Assess the top end condition of this M42
« on: December 08, 2009, 09:49:02 PM »
Did a couple maintenance jobs over the weekend, valve cover gasket and chain tensioner.  While the cover was off, took the opportunity to snap some pix.

I thought it might have been a placebo effect at first, but the new tensioner definitely quiets the engine a bit all-round and makes is less thrashy sounding.  The old one had ~48k on it.

Due to the difficulty of trying to compress even the old tensioner by hand and threading the cap, I opted to install the new one as is, in the compressed state and take my chances with the chain slap on the initial start.  It took a little longer to fully pump up than the last time I replaced it, perhaps because I didn't rev it as high as the factory recommends this time, or because the thicker oil in the sump took longer to build pressure.

To my eye, everything was clean and in pretty decent shape.  The only thing that looks out of sort is the lateral clearances on the chain links.














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